Originally Posted by GeneT

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...cs-needed.html

I autocross my C5 and I used the C5 Z06 specs. I have stock C5 wheels and tire sizes, C6 Z06 sway bars and shocks

Originally Posted by theoldmusicman

I know this subject has probably been beat to death on here but I'm still a little confused. I have a base C5 with Z06 wheel with new Conti EC tires in stock Z06 sizes, and new Bilstein HD shocks. I need to get the alignment checked later this week but I'm unsure about what specs to use for the alignment. I don't track the car at all and I'm not an real aggressive driver. I do sometimes get a little crazy with it on the street but not that much. I could use the factory specs for the base vette, or the Z06 specs, or the Pfadt specs, although the Pfadt specs seems to be very much like the factory Z06 specs. I have read that the Z06 specs will cause excessive wear on the inside edges of the front tires, and considering the price of tires these days I want to get as many miles out of a set as I can. At the same time I don't want to degrade the performance of the car. I would appreciate any thoughts or ideas from anyone who has had a similar issue as mine. Thanks!

Originally Posted by mrr23

Just use the factory specs.

Signed - the alignment guy

Originally Posted by mrr23

Just use the factory specs.

Signed - the alignment guy

Originally Posted by mrr23

The "it's in green" has nothing to do with the rack. It has to do with the laziness of the technicians. The manufacturer give these tolerances that say "you shouldn't get excessive tire wear" as long as you stay in this range. Unfortunately it doesn't hold true most of the time. So it's up to the technicians to do the right thing and get it to the spec called for.

Originally Posted by theoldmusicman

I saw on another thread on the forum where you posted a picture of an alignment you did that was slightly more camber than the base specs but more caster and less toe on the right side front. Was there a reason for that? I think it might have been on your vette. I printed out the picture just for reference.

Originally Posted by theoldmusicman

The factory base specs, or the factory Z06 specs?

Originally Posted by mrr23

The "it's in green" has nothing to do with the rack. It has to do with the laziness of the technicians. The manufacturer give these tolerances that say "you shouldn't get excessive tire wear" as long as you stay in this range. Unfortunately it doesn't hold true most of the time. So it's up to the technicians to do the right thing and get it to the spec called for.

Originally Posted by leadfoot4

It also gives them a broad window of "acceptability", to avoid warranty work....

Originally Posted by mrr23

This was from my car that you are referring to. Stock camber is -0.25. You'll notice the camber is slightly lower on the left when compared to the right. When someone sits in a vehicle, the camber goes higher on the left and lower on the right. Reason for higher caster on the right is to offset the road crown. If caster was equal, the car would drift right.toe being less on the right is because steering wheel was .01 to the right. So turning the wheel left .01 would make toe .03 on both sides.

Side note: I have c6 z06 wheels and tires on my car.

Originally Posted by mrr23

Yes you can use the specs I did on my car.

Originally Posted by strand rider

MY alignment guy had me sit in the car and asked me about the typical ride weight as he set the wheels with non electric measuring tools, the same calipers he uses on the track.

It would seem that worrying about a percentage of a degree or so won't make much difference if a couple of fat asses go for a ride, or even just one.

I think that going to all the trouble to get computer readouts and then not consider typical load or just putting the driver in the car for the adjustment is missing the big picture. Unless the picture is about image and money over quality of work.

I have seen a guy hang the laser alignment tools while the SUV was sitting on a slanted lumpy driveway and get a computer alignment readout. HE had to punch the buttons a couple of extra times to get to get an acceptable result, but I bet they won't accept close enough or almost perfect on the money they collected. I sure they expect payment without any error every time.

I am fortunate to live in an area with a good shop, I don't have to question the work, and the ride is set for my needs , one of which is go tire life .

Originally Posted by theoldmusicman

I was suppose to have the alignment done this afternoon but they got busy so I rescheduled for Monday morning. I did talk to the tech and he either gets the driver to sit in the car while he does the alignment or he dials it in to compensate for the drivers weight. He will also dial in for the road crown if you want him to. The extra time will give me a little longer to decide exactly which way I want to go with the alignment. Right now it's between the alignment that mrr23 posted or the Pfadt Street alignment. mrr23's alignment looks good based on his years of experience. But the Pfadt alignment sure seems to be real popular among members of the forum. Decisions, decisions.

Originally Posted by mrr23

Do you want better handling with a little more inner tire wear over time? Then pfadt is the specs for you.