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Some interesting information. Not sure how some people can get so bent out of shape just offering an opinion. The guy may not have a camera, gun or race car but until he actually gets one (machine polisher) he will never know his skill level. That is what the photography schools, shooting range and track days are all about. Learning.
You have to start somewhere and I appreciate the input.
It's not rocket science. Like everything else , it just takes a little instruction, patience and practice.
I have the Griot's and am very satisfied. I chose it over the PC because I got a great deal on it. Either one, or the Flex or the Cyclo Polisher, would do what I need it to do. Use good pads and good polish and wax (I use Griot's or Meguiars but there are many good choices) and you can't go wrong with any of these.
PC is good, flex is better.
I had a pc and upgraded to the flex. Worth it imo.
I agree. The Rupes system is even better, especially on big flat panels. With a microfiber pad and the right compound, you can do some damage.
Here is a 50/50 from this weekend of what can be accomplished with 175k mile paint.
As mentioned, it's NOT rocket science. Just like anything else in life, you just have to practice and get good technique down. I think anybody can do paint correction. The problem is, a lot of people simply don't have the patience to do it. I have about 15 hours of work into the Tahoe I posted above. You can do a Corvette in 8-10 hours, maybe less if you don't take breaks.
Last edited by Black 02; Jan 25, 2015 at 09:56 PM.
As mentioned, it's NOT rocket science. Just like anything else in life, you just have to practice and get good technique down. I think anybody can do paint correction. The problem is, a lot of people simply don't have the patience to do it. I have about 15 hours of work into the Tahoe I posted above. You can do a Corvette in 8-10 hours, maybe less if you don't take breaks.
If someone has never done it before, it's best to practice on his daily driver and get the technique right before he touches his precious Corvette.
Best polisher/buffer I ever had was a very old heavy duty slow speed 1/2" drill with a polishing bonnet. If you have not done extensive mechanical re-polishing, take it very slowly and carefully, or you will be through the paint - not good. If it's a small area, doing it by hand works just as well.
I agree. The Rupes system is even better, especially on big flat panels. With a microfiber pad and the right compound, you can do some damage.
Here is a 50/50 from this weekend of what can be accomplished with 175k mile paint.
As mentioned, it's NOT rocket science. Just like anything else in life, you just have to practice and get good technique down. I think anybody can do paint correction. The problem is, a lot of people simply don't have the patience to do it. I have about 15 hours of work into the Tahoe I posted above. You can do a Corvette in 8-10 hours, maybe less if you don't take breaks.
Get the FLEX, 5.5 inch Lake County pads and Wolfgang products. It's awesome. well worth every penny. Go to Autogeek and get one of the packages. Best way to save money.
I absolutely love the results, and it was certainly safe enough to learn with. While where I'm at now, I wouldn't mind stepping to a more aggressive buffer to save on some time; the XP does the job. You can burn through paint if you want; but you're REALLY going to have to work to try. Controlling the pad heat is #1 no matter what you use.
I learned on an old Rockwell high speed fixed rotation w/ a 10" wool pad...yeah I burned paint before haha.
You need a DA to give you a a result that doesn't leave buffing lines, so I wouldn't put too much water towards El Cheapo's argument.
You should use a flexible backing plate; a 6" hook and loop is a nice in between size. that gives you plenty of pad choices and covers well.
I'm a big fan of the Lake Country pads myself but try a few and see what results can be achieved. My pad of choice are their CSS pads which retain a lot of the compound to keep the pad wet and provide good control. Compound choice also plays a part.
On the cheap you can get away with the Meguairs 205/105 diamond cut and glaze combo. Blackfire makes some nice sealants on the cheaper end if you prefer that route. I've recently switched from a sealer to a pure carnuba for depth. The Pinnacle Series II has really impressed me on initial and continuing coats and while $, isn't break the bank expensive, not to mention is super easy to work with.
Results will come with practice and yes, there is technique; but the PC units are super easy to learn on and you'd have to get rocks in the pad to ruin something on first use, at any of the speed ranges. Even with an aggressive pad and compound at the highest setting (5500-6k iirc) you can hold the pad in place with hard pressure for 20 seconds without damage.
It is about $220-260 to get you started and the packs as mentioned on Autogeek are good starts for the $. Watch the sales and you can save some good loot there on supplies.
What's nerve wracking the first time is wetsanding
To ***** a little more; some examples from a cheap 99GT I quasi restomodded for my dad.
Paint was BAD. Lots of stains, imbedded grit, scratches/swirls
Wet sanding with 1200/mild detergent as a lubricant
After the XP 2 step, and a shot of Blackfire sealant as my 'test spot'
Then began the process of hating life...you will put in some serious time doing this. It can take anywhere between 6-20hrs just buffing a car to really a fill correction based on size/damage and do it properly. More if you like to wetsand.
I'm leaving out a ton of results pics as I'm trying not to steal too much away from here, but yeah... it's worth the effort.
New top, interior, suspension, refurb the bay/underside, blah blah...but the paint; yeah swirl free and deep enough to get lost. near 160k paint.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
