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C5 corvette electronics going crazy... And won't start

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Old Jan 26, 2015 | 02:39 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by wardamncorvette
Big 3 upgrade and now I'm running at 13.5v on dash



Alternator is 14.5. Battery is 14.35
I think we need an update. From the beginning, what was all done? Where do things stand now and what was the cause of your problem?
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Old Jan 26, 2015 | 05:59 PM
  #62  
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15
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Update.



Drove the car this morning and all is well.


Right now I have a 4 gauge wire running from my alternator to my positive battery. Shows 13.3-13.7 volts on dash( it's never been that high) usually has only been 12.0-12.5 sometimes lower. This has not only fixed my problem, but has also made everything better.



Right now I'm working on grounding the negative terminal to the frame, and grounding motor to frame. I've done all this for 27$. I see kits online for 140$ plus.
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Old Jan 26, 2015 | 06:01 PM
  #63  
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Is it ok to ground the negative terminal to the same place im grounding the motor to?
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Old Jan 26, 2015 | 06:47 PM
  #64  
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Never mind. Found another spot to ground. Thanks everybody for your help
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Old Jan 26, 2015 | 06:53 PM
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Old Jan 26, 2015 | 08:00 PM
  #66  
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You are now reading the output of your alternator on the DIC.
What does your battery read with a voltmeter, and what does it read with the engine off?
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Old Jan 26, 2015 | 08:28 PM
  #67  
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12.24 on battery right now while not running



14.44 on alternator while running, 14.26 on battery while running.




13.0-13.6 on dash
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Old Jan 27, 2015 | 09:37 AM
  #68  
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The battery is caput, dead, not charging. A fully charged battery has 12.6-12.8V at rest, measured 1/2 hr. or more after being taken off the charger, and this is called the "resting voltage", which is different than a "surface charge" right after removing from a charger.
The measurement on the DIC is not the same as taken directly from the battery.
Get yourself a new battery and your problems will be solved.
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Old Jan 27, 2015 | 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by mrlmd
The battery is caput, dead, not charging. A fully charged battery has 12.6-12.8V at rest, measured 1/2 hr. or more after being taken off the charger, and this is called the "resting voltage", which is different than a "surface charge" right after removing from a charger.
The measurement on the DIC is not the same as taken directly from the battery.
Get yourself a new battery and your problems will be solved.
Sounded like the battery all along to me.
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Old Jan 27, 2015 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 3boystoys
Sounded like the battery all along to me.
Wow, at least somebody agrees with me. Except the OP who's too stubborn.
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Old Jan 27, 2015 | 02:45 PM
  #71  
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Q
Originally Posted by mrlmd
Wow, at least somebody agrees with me. Except the OP who's too stubborn.
Not only have I had my battery tested at 3 different stores and all three tell me they were good, but I also have eliminated all of my problems with a 4 gauge wire ran from my battery to alternator.


My battery is not bad. My alternator is not bad. My starter is not bad. It looks like it's a fusible link that has blown. I have fixed this problem.


I've driven my car all morning long. And all yesterday. Everything is fine and it's better than ever
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Old Jan 27, 2015 | 03:53 PM
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There is no way your battery is good if it reads 12.4 volts.
Measure the voltage in the morning with a voltmeter across the battery terminals before you start it up and let us know what is it.
The car may start with less than 12.4-12.5V but the electronics go haywire around and below that level. You may be able to start the car at that low voltage and are then running off the alternator, which may not last very long under those conditions. Maybe the high current being put out to try and charge the battery is why the fusible link blew.
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Old Jan 27, 2015 | 06:46 PM
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just change the battery and all is good
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Old Jan 27, 2015 | 06:55 PM
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This is entertaining anyways!!
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Old Jan 27, 2015 | 07:02 PM
  #75  
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Battery is at 12.62volts right now after driving all day long. I will again check it in the morning.



I have zero electrical problems and my voltage on dash is higher than ever. Anyone who still thinks I need a battery is a bit confused.
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Old Jan 28, 2015 | 10:50 AM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by wardamncorvette
Battery is at 12.62volts right now after driving all day long. I will again check it in the morning.



I have zero electrical problems and my voltage on dash is higher than ever. Anyone who still thinks I need a battery is a bit confused.
What was the reading this morning??
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Old Jan 28, 2015 | 10:52 AM
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We all want to know, but he's not going to tell us. Too embarrassed.
But seriously, after going out on a limb, I really want to know what the battery voltage was after sitting for 12 hours overnight. If it's anything less than the last reading of 12.6 after driving all day, the battery is shot. And 12.6 after driving all day is quite low if read right after turning the car off.

Last edited by mrlmd; Jan 28, 2015 at 10:56 AM.
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Old Jan 28, 2015 | 02:10 PM
  #78  
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Car started fine after battery was at 12.4
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Old Jan 28, 2015 | 02:11 PM
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Then after I cranked
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Old Jan 28, 2015 | 03:55 PM
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Again, a fully charged battery should read 12.6-12.8V. Your battery is hanging at 12.4V which is only about a 75% charge and is not normal. The car may start with that, but one of these days you are going to be left out in the field somewhere. If the car won't start in the first couple of seconds and you have to try a couple of times, you are going to have a dead battery. You do not have a full amp-hour capacity in that battery and wherever you got it tested and how they did it was very suspect.
When the car is running you are measuring the output of the alternator, not the battery voltage, and you are being lulled into to a false sense of security. And if you did blow the fusible link, you still have no idea why and have not solved your basic problem. So, good luck to you and hope it lasts for a while.

Last edited by mrlmd; Jan 28, 2015 at 03:58 PM.
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