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K9 says he got great results with cleaner with a little bleach. Go easy on the bleach is the message. Just apply and wait and watch then rinse and rinse. Apply treatment of choice (I used 303 Fabric spray).
...''When I got my '99 - Mag Red with the Light Oak top - the top was just like yours, spotted with mildew stains. I used hot water mixed with a little Clorox Cleanup with Bleach (Clorox' version of a general cleaner with a little bit of bleach in it), perhaps 1/2 to 1 cup in a gallon of hot water and scrubbed with a medium stiffness brush. ''
Last edited by Blueleader; 04-14-2015 at 02:50 PM.
I bought more 303, I found it at West Marine. Quart for $29 bucks. Good price.
It rains almost everyday in April. ''April showers bring May flowers''.......
Cocoa Beach Florida. MY 15yr OLD TOP LOOKS BRAND NEW.
Last edited by Blueleader; 04-21-2015 at 03:29 PM.
More info. This worked great, changed a tattered and filthy old top to new again
Originally Posted by Blueleader
I bought more 303, I found it at West Marine. Quart for $29 bucks. Good price.
It rains almost everyday in April. ''April showers bring May flowers''.......
Cocoa Beach Florida. MY 15yr OLD TOP LOOKS BRAND NEW.
Also check out the AutoGeek.net by clicking on the
banner for them - over on the right hand side of this page. Under CAR CARE. If you buy, you get a 10% discount at check-out by using
'Corvette Forum' in the code section. I bought the first bottle of 303 from them. Had it in 2 days FedX. Great price too!
Last edited by Blueleader; 04-24-2015 at 07:04 PM.
I had the same problem with my cashmere colored top. I applied the 50/50 mixture of water and Clorox bleach, rinsed and then cleaned with 303. Honestly though the 50/50 mixture got rid of the mildew by itself. I just used the 303 cleaner afterwards because I had already ordered it. Plus I wanted to follow what was done in the previous post.
The bleach/water mix doesn't have any negative affects on the paint?
What paint? The Top is not painted material.Its dyed fabric.
Just rinse well when you are satisfied with the eradication
of the stains. Of Course you dont let any cleaning substance
sit on the painted car surface. Rinse and wipe dry any painted areas that are wetted by the work. Think it out. Situation awareness is all
thats needed.
If you tend to be sloppy, let someone else do it for you.
Geeez, I know the top is fabric. I was concerned about the solution running off affecting the painted areas of the car!
A simple yes or no would have been fine.
Originally Posted by Blueleader
What paint? The Top is not painted material.Its dyed fabric.
Just rinse well when you are satisfied with the eradication
of the stains. Of Course you dont let any cleaning substance
sit on the painted car surface. Rinse and wipe dry any painted areas that are wetted by the work. Think it out. Situation awareness is all
thats needed.
If you tend to be sloppy, let someone else do it for you.
Geez yourself...You did not say that in your post. Try better communication and you wont be misunderstood. The word is effect not affect anyway.
I just thought you had not looked at the thread posts and didn't watch the video on post 8.
You just trolled in and scolded me.
Last edited by Blueleader; 06-14-2015 at 04:00 PM.
I agree, about 4 cents to do my top. I have uses for bleach and keep a gallon on hand. $32.oo for the Microban that I dont have another use for..... 15 mins and it was done.Then I treated it with Fabric spray.
It is interesting if you have a bad mold problem in the basement........
Goggle it-
Microban® Disinfectant Spray Plus is a water-based bactericide, fungicide, deodorizer, and antimicrobial all in one unique formulation.
One application kills allergy- and disease-causing germs, fungi, mold, and mildew. It kills odor-causing bacteria, including gram negative bacteria - the bacteria encountered in sewage backups and toilet overflow situations.
Microban Disinfectant Spray Plus also provides long-lasting residual protection, so it keeps working, preventing germs and fungi from growing on surfaces long after application. Major insurance companies recognize Microban Disinfectant Spray for treatment on water losses.
Microban Disinfectant Spray Plus is EPA registered for many decontamination applications, including water damage restoration, sewage backups, removal of carcasses, toilet overflow situations, and more. It is also EPA registered for both spray and fogging applications. EPA registration number: 70385-5
Can be applied to hard surfaces, carpet, upholstery, and mattresses -- just about any surface in need of cleaning and disinfecting.
Application:
Apply via sprayer to porous surfaces at a rate of 1,500 square feet per gallon. Spray until moist.
Brush into carpeting, and allow 10–20 minutes for drying.
See label for additional instructions.
Microban Disinfectant Spray Plus vs. Bleach
When there are flood events, many people call and ask about using bleach to clean and disinfect water damaged surfaces. Microban Disinfectant Spray Plus (MDSP) is the top choice of restoration professionals for many reasons, but here are 5 key reasons to share with customers and adjusters on why MDSP is superior to bleach:
Bleach is quite caustic and irritating. Microban Disinfectant Spray Plus (MDSP) has a neutral pH and is non-corrosive.
Bleach can corrode metals and damage fiber dyes. MDSP will not damage these surfaces.
Bleach doesn't provide residual protection after initial application. MDSP has both bacteriostatic and fungistatic capability.
Bleach leaves significant amounts of residue that can be quite difficult to remove. MDSP has minimal residue.
Bleach is unstable and can easily emit toxic fumes if improperly handled.
I just bought my first Vette last week. A 2002 Yellow Convertible with Oak top. I actually negotiated the price down due to the moldy, dirty top.... SO, I followed your directions and WOW! The top looks new! You saved me $1,200.00! I was actually shopping for a top and the additional $600 for instal... Overall, I'm looking at my $1,500.00 drop from the seller, and another $1,200.00 for the new top! I must say, a heck of a deal! I believe folks are hesitant about spraying the 50/50 bleach.... But along with 303, it did the trick!!! Love the Oak Top over the Yellow.....POP! Thank you again! Jim
Originally Posted by Blueleader
I used a 50 -50 bleach and water for 20 mins then washed it using 303 Top cleaner. Dried in the sun and I applied Fabric convertible top spray from 303. Water off a ducks back now and it looks fantastic. Brand new. It was really bad and I tried a cornucopia of products to no avail.I bought the convertible top kit from 303 on Amazon for $17.00 plus $5.95 FEDX. Really glad I didnt dye it. Counter guy at Ecklers told me most use 303. So I did.
You are very smart to check in the Corvette Forum site to get some information. I have gleaned a lot in the last 10 years from the members and lovers of the incredible Corvette Sports car. Welcome to the club And Good for you Jim. I am glad the top was renewable
May I also recommend applying ReJex to the paint. Best product ever. Easy on and easy off. High shine product and protects the paint like no other I have used in 25 years. Google Rejex for info, and probably a lot here on the Forum search engine, and I get it from Ace hardware, eBay or AmaZon and best price for top conditioner 303 was at West Marine. Lots of use for boat canopy and seats too etc.
I just applied more top conditioner today. That's 5 months in a sunny and salty environment. Looks beautiful.
I know this is an old thread, however I wanted to tell y'all about a new product. Our 02' with the light oak convertible top has recently started showing some mold and mildew stains. We changed storage buildings and evidently the new one has more moisture in it. I read this thread and thought about the new mold and mildew cleansers on the market. So I got some Scrubbing Bubbles Foaming Bleach Bathroom Cleaner. I let the car sit in the sun for several hours prior to spraying the mildew spots. I sprayed each spot liberally, I kinda rubbed it with my fingers to make sure it penetrated. The spots on the sides had to be rubbed in so the cleaner would stay where it was needed. I set a timer and much to my surprise 15 minutes later most of the spots were completely gone. I rinsed the top really well with just water. I let the top dry and reapplied to a few of the more stubborn spots, let sit for 15 minutes, rinsed and let dry again. I was very pleased with the results. I was very careful to immediately clean any of the foam off the gaskets and the paint if it got on them. Now that it's spot free I will clean then apply a conditioner.
I know this is an old thread, however I wanted to tell y'all about a new product. Our 02' with the light oak convertible top has recently started showing some mold and mildew stains. We changed storage buildings and evidently the new one has more moisture in it. I read this thread and thought about the new mold and mildew cleansers on the market. So I got some Scrubbing Bubbles Foaming Bleach Bathroom Cleaner. I let the car sit in the sun for several hours prior to spraying the mildew spots. I sprayed each spot liberally, I kinda rubbed it with my fingers to make sure it penetrated. The spots on the sides had to be rubbed in so the cleaner would stay where it was needed. I set a timer and much to my surprise 15 minutes later most of the spots were completely gone. I rinsed the top really well with just water. I let the top dry and reapplied to a few of the more stubborn spots, let sit for 15 minutes, rinsed and let dry again. I was very pleased with the results. I was very careful to immediately clean any of the foam off the gaskets and the paint if it got on them. Now that it's spot free I will clean then apply a conditioner.
What conditioner? I am going to try your method today as mildew spots came back, also on the paint but I will clay bar those spots.
I use 303 Marine/recreational - FABRIC GUARD product for the final waterproofing. I am debating painting the top this time, 17 yrs old and in great shape. Just a few areas not up to my inspection and close look. From 10ft its just fine, but I know > its really not perfect, so I got Outdoor Fabric Paint by Simply Spray. It has UV Protectant qualities and got Tan to match the current top. The YouTube channel for the product even says you can change colors, the product is quite dense and works on waterproofed or absorbent fabrics. I did an outdoor umbrella and some cushions last year and they still look brand new, so I am doing the Vette's top. It was about $15 bucks a can. - simplyspray.com for colors.
I will let it cure for several days then apply the 303 waterproofing spray.
I've been following this thread because my light oak top looks perfectly clean when dry. You see no spots. However, when it rains and the top is wet all of these small little mildew looking spots become apparent. Clearly the previous owner had put this car away with the top down and wet. So, I'm wondering if my problem is something other than surface mold. Why are the spots only visible when the top is wet?
I'm a little reluctant to use any bleach products because they will weaken other fabric components such as the threading. Vaseline might work but I suspect that introduces a different issue.
I'm in a dilemma. Looks good dry looks like crap wet. I guess I could put the top down in the rain.....joking...
Last edited by Larrygee; 03-01-2018 at 04:52 PM.
Reason: Can't dpell.....see....
04-08-2015, 02:15 AM
