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I have a 2004 C5 plain jane. Love this car! My only big beef is that the console display, the one that shows temp, heater/ac settings, is so dam DIM! I have played around with the dash light brightness control, but it only seems to work when the headlights are on!...then when you shut off the headlights (which means it is daylight and bright outside) the console display goes to dim. I can only read it during the day if I shade it with my hand!....you would think that during daylight the display would go to BRIGHT so you can see it!
So at night (when it is OK to be DIM) I can adjust the brightness of this display, but daytime (when you need it BRIGHT) I cannot adjust the brightness....!!
Any clever solutions, short of duct taping a cardboard shroud over it???....haha....that would look GREAT!......Hillbilly C5!
I guess you have not seen the bazillion Threads on the dim display issue. Very common. and I had the same issue except it was black. I did the attached fix and it is bright now. If you can't solder you can someone do it. Several vendors here do it.
It took about 20 minutes to remove the unit and then about 5 minutes to resolder the bad solder joints.
Here is the fix. Your 2004 should have the 8 resistors side by side as shown in the last set of pictures.
This is how to access the unit. You can stop once you have the console surround off. Just don't pull on the wires to remove the unit, Only pull in the connector at the rear.
Thanks, man!......I have not seen the mega-gazillion threads on this as I do not check into the forum very often......I am an electrical engineer, so I know a little about soldering....and obviously the eight resistors limit the cuurent through the "seven segment" display...(eight including the decimal point).....I am familiar with illuminated displays in my work, just do not want to start pulling my dash apart without knowing what I was doing......I alot of good information comes from bad experience!....THX again ....!!
Thanks, man!......I have not seen the mega-gazillion threads on this as I do not check into the forum very often......I am an electrical engineer, so I know a little about soldering....and obviously the eight resistors limit the cuurent through the "seven segment" display...(eight including the decimal point).....I am familiar with illuminated displays in my work, just do not want to start pulling my dash apart without knowing what I was doing......I alot of good information comes from bad experience!....THX again ....!!
Also, it looks like they set up the reflow temperatures for these surface mount resistors WRONG when these were manufactured.....from the photos they look like "cold" (BAD) solder joints due to incorrect soldering temperatures.....I find it ironic that a temperature indicator is dim due to bad soldering temperature!....haha!
Excellent. The resistors are surface mounted so when you touch up the solder joint it is very easy to melt the other side and have the resistor move around on you. Suggest you have someone to press down on the resistor with something to keep it in place unless you can do it yourself.
If you have any issues with the console removal let me know. If you have a manual you don't need to remove the shift **** to lift off shift boot on the console. What I do is to just separate the shift boot from the console and rotate it at an angle so the console can be lifted off, leaving the boot in place.
If you do have a manual, it would be a good time to verify the shifter is correctly aligned and there is no play in the shifter mounting bushings.
Excellent. The resistors are surface mounted so when you touch up the solder joint it is very easy to melt the other side and have the resistor move around on you. Suggest you have someone to press down on the resistor with something to keep it in place unless you can do it yourself.
If you have any issues with the console removal let me know. If you have a manual you don't need to remove the shift **** to lift off shift boot on the console. What I do is to just separate the shift boot from the console and rotate it at an angle so the console can be lifted off, leaving the boot in place.
If you do have a manual, it would be a good time to verify the shifter is correctly aligned and there is no play in the shifter mounting bushings.
Thanks for the tip on the shifter alignment........also a tip for you.....when dealing with surface mount resistors, as a re-work, it is best to use two soldering irons and a steady hand....if you heat each side individually, with one iron, you risk cracking the resistor due to temperature difference from one end to the other....when these boards are manufactured they are put through a "re-flow oven" where EVERYTHING is raised to soldering temperature.....sounds like they used the wrong solder (melting temperature) or they had the re-flow oven (temperature that the boards will see to melt the solder) set to the wrong temperature......either results in a cold solder joint...(high resistance or unkown resistance...and you want the resistance of a solder joint to be as low as possible)......in this case there is enough resistance in the joints to lower the current through the display, therefore causing a dim display.....
I think that using one iron probably works because these resistors are so large......will decide for myself when I crack it open.....
Thanks again for the tips.......I am an old Harley guy, and have had my Vette for about a year.......I respect experience.....
When I did mine I used a small spring loaded clamp on heat sink I bought about 50 years ago. Neat little device that does not weigh much. It allowed me to hold it in place and remove heat while I touched up the joint. Probably have only used it half dozen times.
When you solder them pry up gently on each end. On the ones that failed one end will be loose. Solder that end first. If you do the other end first they will move and are hard to hold in place to solder. I found this out the hard way.
When you solder them pry up gently on each end. On the ones that failed one end will be loose. Solder that end first. If you do the other end first they will move and are hard to hold in place to solder. I found this out the hard way.