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They used 10X as much threadlocker as needed assembling corvettes!
I tried a breaker bar, and a hammer. Couldn't get the caliper bracket bolts to budge.
I swear they didn't use threadlocker, they used molten titanium on these bolts. One of the bolts was so stuck, not only did it compress the suspension when I started to jack up on the rachet, it lifted the car off the jack stand.
They actually use thread lock for a reason but you probably know that. Make sure you use something when you re-install them. I've had a bolt decide to vacate the hole it was suppose to stay in before. Not this car but I learned my lesson. I've had to use a 5 lbs sledge before.
They used 10X as much threadlocker as needed assembling corvettes!
I tried a breaker bar, and a hammer. Couldn't get the caliper bracket bolts to budge.
I swear they didn't use threadlocker, they used molten titanium on these bolts. One of the bolts was so stuck, not only did it compress the suspension when I started to jack up on the rachet, it lifted the car off the jack stand.
Your two best options are an impact wrench and/or judiciously applied heat (aka flame wrench). Anyone who has worked on cars for any length of time has run into a similar situation. Good luck!
Normally, you are supposed to use an impact wrench to get those off. Or a very long breaker bar would do the trick. In the pic, your wrench is way too short to give you the leverage to got those threadlocked bolts off.
I've done a lot of brake jobs and I don't find that there is more threadlocker than usual on Corvettes. I think it's just your removal method that is not ideal.
Normally, you are supposed to use an impact wrench to get those off. Or a very long breaker bar would do the trick. In the pic, your wrench is way too short to give you the leverage to got those threadlocked bolts off.
I've done a lot of brake jobs and I don't find that there is more threadlocker than usual on Corvettes. I think it's just your removal method that is not ideal.
Even if the longer bar doesn't work with just you turning, no way the jack technique will lift the car. You need more torque.
If the toe ball joint on the rear is disconnected, the knuckle and brake assembly can be steered out allowing a long pipe to be placed over the wrench for easy removal.
Normally, you are supposed to use an impact wrench to get those off. Or a very long breaker bar would do the trick. In the pic, your wrench is way too short to give you the leverage to got those threadlocked bolts off.
I've done a lot of brake jobs and I don't find that there is more threadlocker than usual on Corvettes. I think it's just your removal method that is not ideal.
Wife was out of town, and I didn't have a torch.
I tried a breaker bar about 3 times the length of that wrench. That sucker didn't move.
The breaker bar worked on one of the front bolts though.
In the last 2 weeks I've done 3 other brake jobs. I track all 4 of my cars, so I do at least one brake swap a year on each. I worked on cars professionally 10 years ago, so I've done a few brake jobs. There is a stark contrast between my Mustang (comes apart and goes together like a lego set) and the corvette.
I always use a boxed end wrench and a small sledge hammer. A few hits with the hammer gives it that impact like action and the bolts typically come out easy after that.
I have a Walmart 1/2" torque wrench that I don't use for torquing down anything but it is very useful for breaking stubborn bolts loose when I don't have the room to use my impact.
The ratchet in your picture is too short and it looks like it might be 3/8 drive which isn't going to cut the mustard for a bolt like that. Go to harbor freight if they have one near and get their extendable 1/2" drive ratchet. I used that on my rear brakes a couple days ago, extend it as far as you can in the wheel well and break the bolt loose. Good luck, you'll get it just need more torque on that bolt.
If you use a torch you will need new caliper pin boots as you'll likely damage them.
Just put new rotors on my car. Chevy used a RED threadlocker on those caliper bracket bolts. To remove I used a 8 dollar Harbor Freight heat gun directed right at the bracket at the bolt locations. On HIGH at 1 minute time and that heat loosened up the threadlocker allowing the bolt to be removed. Two hints: 1) on the front turn the front wheels so you can get better leverage on your wrench and 2) remove the caliper pins and pin boots (your going to grease them anyway on the re-install. Plus when putting the brackets back on, I used BLUE threadlocker and torque to spec.
Oh my mistake I glanced at the pic and thought he was stuck on the caliper pin bolts. The 21mm caliper bracket bolts can be heated without worry of issue.
If all else fails, use the weight of the car to break it loose.
Simply jack up the car, securely put the longest breaker bar you have on the bolt and wedge it against the floor, then lower the car by releasing the jack until the bolts breaks free.
You guys aren't seeming to read where he said he used the jack and it simply compressed the suspension and lifted the car off the jack stand. Even with a shorter ratchet that should provide sufficient torque to break the bolt free.
..........If you use a torch you will need new caliper pin boots as you'll likely damage them.
I understand what you're saying, and it's indeed true. However, I would HOPE that if a person is removing the caliper bracket, they've already removed the caliper.....
I just installed Brakemotive Rotors and Pads last weekend. The brake job itself wasn't hard, but getting the caliper bolts loose were hell!! I actually broke a ratchet trying to get the passenger front side loose!! The ratchet now spins freely and doesn't lock when trying to loosen a bolt. What I did was spray some PB Blaster on all the bolts and let that sit for a while. Got a sledge hammer, then went back with a new ratchet and gave it a few taps and the bolts came loose. I had my car on jack stands but turning the front wheels to left and right for more room helped out alot. But man it took a lot of energy to gwt those bolts loose!
Worst brake job ever!
Even if the longer bar doesn't work with just you turning, no way the jack technique will lift the car. You need more torque.
