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[Z06] antipowerhop algorithm?

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Old Apr 19, 2015 | 09:08 AM
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Default antipowerhop algorithm?

had my car to the tack last week turning the T/C off every time I attempted to do a burnout to heat on the drag radials I failed, car would brake loose and as soon as i touched the brake peddle car would just bog down, my last try I broke the tires loose as it started to bog after pushing the brake peddle I just took my foot off the brake and power came back?

its like the car is fighting me on this, I'm not applying to much brake even just with light brake pressure it just dies

I read today online the car has a antipowerhop algorithm the works even with the T/C off?

can some one tell me if this is true and if it is how do i get around it?

btw 12.29 @ 115 mph with a 185 60ft on cold tires
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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 11:04 AM
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any one?
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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 12:00 PM
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Drop the clutch at more RPM, & wait a second to jump on the brake.

practice somewhere before going to the track.
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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by maroon88iroc
Drop the clutch at more RPM, & wait a second to jump on the brake.

practice somewhere before going to the track.
thanks will try that
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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Stroker87
thanks will try that
Are you putting it in competition mode or just turning t/c off??? Makes a big difference!
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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by fisher auto
Are you putting it in competition mode or just turning t/c off??? Makes a big difference!
I tried both off and comp mode
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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Stroker87
I tried both off and comp mode
Well than Maroon is right, bring the R's up delay than stab the brakes and let rip....!
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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 10:49 PM
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I drive around the water box, then back up into it, give the clutch a blip to turn the tires once to get them wet, then roll out of the water and do my burn out...I bring the rpms up to maybe 2500 and quickly RELEASE the clutch, do not "pop" the clutch as the shock with the stock mounts will shake the drivetrain. As soon as the tires are spinning I jump to the brake and maintain 3500rpm+. Stay on the gas and let off the brake letting the car roll forward. You will know when to let off cause the tires will dig. This worked perfect for 10 plus runs in the warmer months.

With all that said...on crappy tires I experienced enough tire shake/ wheel hop last year to pop a motor mount. It was fall, the weather was cold and damp and they shook like hell during the burnout and the launch. During the launch I absolutely felt the computer cut power when it shook then reapply after it settled. This was in competition mode.
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Old Apr 22, 2015 | 11:29 PM
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Guys I had a similar issue going on recently where my TC/AH was kicking on when I had it completely off, or in comp mode. I'm no newb to the track or the car in regards to working the modes either... I would have them completely off and on a hard launch followed by the chirp of the tires in 2nd or 3rd the whole system would reactivate itself and turn on.

Im almost positive it's a speed sensor or loose ground, but haven't nailed it down yet. In the mean time, I pulled the ABS fuse this past weekend to make sure it didn't act up on me.

Point of this post is: it may not be technique or operator error in his situation. I've done a little digging and haven't found my specific problem on here just yet...
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 08:40 AM
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ok just to give you guys some insight on me, I not a noob when it come to the drag strip I have well over 100 passes between my 87 hot rod truck and a 2000 z28 I had a few summer ago, this car is 100% pulling power in either mode TC/AH off or in Comp mode!

i'll try to be detailed on what happen

I always drive around the water box to keep the front tires dry and back in, the 1st attempt the track official guided me while backing up in the water box I raised the rpms to about 2500 popped the clutch car started to burnout then just died with me holding the gas peddle to the floor, at that time i thought I left TC/AH on cause what it felt like so I restarted the car hit the the button to make sure it was OFF this time popped the clutch again burnout started I applied the brake it started to die (at this point I was so embarrassed) I let off the brake car came to life and just roasted the tires till it hooked as I was rolling forward. 2nd time the track official seen me coming and sprayed the box with more water again drove around and backed in popped the clutch around maybe 3k car lights up the tires I apply the brake same thing car starts to die so I lift the brake not to look like a noob again it comes to life rolling forward this time I was in COMP mode and while I was on the brake the car was moving forward so it was not the brake pressure stopping the car it was 100% the car pulling power. the 3rd and last time I was thinking maybe I am hitting the brakes to hard so same thing back in yada yada yada pop the clutch barely touch the brake with the gas peddle on the floor power is being pulled and again soon as I lift my foot off the brake car gets it power back

this is not my 1st manual car I was great at burnouts in the others street and tack but this one the car's computer is pulling the power out no matter what mode i'm in

yesterday with TC/AH OFF shifted in to second aggressively while getting on the highway and even my son felt the car lose power when the rear wheels broke loose and hopped a little then the power came back the dash light was on showing TC/AH was off

i never felt this before with the street tires, only the drag radials at the track i was using M/T ET Street 26x11.50x16, I now have nitto NT555r's 305/35/18 on the back for the street

i'm 100% sure it is wheel hop related now just dont know how to get around it?

Originally Posted by D.Woods
I pulled the ABS fuse this past weekend to make sure it didn't act up on me.
did pulling the fuse help?

Last edited by Stroker87; Apr 23, 2015 at 08:44 AM.
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Stroker87
... at that time i thought I left TC/AH on cause what it felt like so I restarted the car hit the the button to make sure it was OFF this time popped the clutch again burnout started I applied the brake it started to die (at this point I was so embarrassed) I let off the brake car came to life and just roasted the tires till it hooked as I was rolling forward. 2nd time the track official seen me coming and sprayed the box with more water again drove around and backed in popped the clutch around maybe 3k car lights up the tires I apply the brake same thing car starts to die so I lift the brake not to look like a noob again it comes to life rolling forward this time I was in COMP mode and while I was on the brake the car was moving forward so it was not the brake pressure stopping the car it was 100% the car pulling power. the 3rd and last time I was thinking maybe I am hitting the brakes to hard so same thing back in yada yada yada pop the clutch barely touch the brake with the gas peddle on the floor power is being pulled and again soon as I lift my foot off the brake car gets it power back ...
Because of you what you said above, I don't believe it has anything to do with wheel hop. To me, it sounds like your traction control is not turning off 100%. Why, I can't answer...

If there was a wheelhop algorithm, a lot of people who have known about it a LONG time ago.
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 02:00 PM
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From what I read it was only in 02's and 03's
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by philadd
Because of you what you said above, I don't believe it has anything to do with wheel hop. To me, it sounds like your traction control is not turning off 100%. Why, I can't answer...

If there was a wheelhop algorithm, a lot of people who have known about it a LONG time ago.
That's what I was insinuating with my post. It's easy to think some guy may just not know what the heck he's doing, but after my little fiasco (happened after having the car over a year and being to the track previously, etc) I thought this sounded like he may have a separate gremlin there too.

Stroker87: Pulling the ABS fuse disables EVERYTHING! Just hope you don't NEED it if you pull b/c you wont have it at all.
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 03:08 PM
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here some links I did find that mentions it, I'm not crazy lol

http://www.c5registry.com/2k2z06/index.htm
The LS6’s extra power is all up top and it makes the ’02-car the quickest production Corvette ever. While GM did not allow timed, acceleration testing of the prototype I drove; it did supply data claiming, 3.9-sec., 0-60 time and a 12.4 sec. quarter mile pass. Some good intel I’ve developed about ’02 Z06 performance shows a potential for an astonishing, 3.85 sec. 0-60 and quarter mile performance at 12.45/118.0 mph. That’s using timing with no roll-out (rather than drag strip clocks), on a typical road surface and at the hands of a driver who understands how to launch in a manner that won’t run afoul of the "anti-powerhop" algorithms programmed into the engine controls software.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...algarithm.html

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...n-sort-of.html

I know what ever this is, its hurting my ET's, I'm wondering if other drivers think its the car bogging off the line thinking they have to much traction or something?

D.Woods, thanks! I'll try it

Last edited by Stroker87; Apr 23, 2015 at 03:10 PM.
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 05:46 PM
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Never meant you don't know what you were doing at the track, was just sharing my procedure as a comparison. Min is an 02, and while it hasn't cut my power on a good launch, I am 100% sure it cut power when I DID get wheel hop on that one cold night and the car shook like hell. So there is Def some kind of programming against it.
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 05:56 PM
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95Z28M6, you upset me in any way I was just showing what I was able to find about it, but its not much nothing about getting around it

I'll take any input I can get right now lol
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Old Apr 24, 2015 | 05:02 PM
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D.Woods I looked in the fuse block under the hood today I have 2 ABS fuse's do i pull both or just one? "if" its just one witch one?

thanks
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Old Apr 24, 2015 | 08:50 PM
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I stand corrected about the algorithm. Although I still don't believe it's wheel hop that's causing it, I hope that pulling the ABS fuse will temporarily resolve your issue.
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Old Apr 24, 2015 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by philadd
I stand corrected about the algorithm. Although I still don't believe it's wheel hop that's causing it, I hope that pulling the ABS fuse will temporarily resolve your issue.

I owned the car now for about 8 months only after I started to play with the drag radials did I notice it, the wheel hop with them is pretty strong so i'm thinking it has to be very harsh hop to set it off, when it happens its very fast it does not pull power as bad as when TC is ON its much less then that. its like it only pulls enough power to stop it but the car is still under load accelerating just kinda nose dives briefly then the power is back in full if i had to guess i'd say .5 of a second is about how long it last

I'm sure if i play around with my shifting technique I might be able to avoid it, the burnout is what i'm most concerned with since I cant get a good one done

still not much on it out there well that I can find some sites are calling it torque management also?

this might help under stand it better?

"We mentioned the calibration’s antipowerhop algorithm earlier. Confronted with customer complaints and durability concerns about the behavior of manual transmission Corvettes at launch, GM Powertrain has added the feature to eliminate the hop. "The Power Hop algorithm is used on manual transmission Corvettes, only." John Juriga states. "If TCS (traction control system) is turned off, it is possible to get the tires to break loose and have axle hop, or oscillate, during hard launches. To remedy this, the TCS module requests a torque reduction from the ECM, even though TCS has been turned off by the driver. For Power Hop, spark and/or fuel (reductions are) used rather than throttle to improve response time. This request is calibrated so wheel hop can be reduced as much as possible without compromising vehicle performance. The TCS module requests just enough torque reduction for just long enough to get the axle back on the ground during these launch events.

Last edited by Stroker87; Apr 24, 2015 at 11:15 PM.
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Old Apr 25, 2015 | 03:16 AM
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Judging from one of the links that I was looking through, it seems that someone would be able to tune that out, although I can't be certain. Have you considered (or already installed) other upgrades that will help reduce/eliminate wheel hop?
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