This is embarrassing because it's probably been covered a million times. The stock shifter on my '99 is a little imprecise and I find myself muscling it into position. The easy answer would seem to be a shifter kit but I noticed on the forum that many have removed them in favor of stock or that some have replaced the C5 unit with a C6. These things aren't cheap and I just thought I'd throw the matter open for discussion (again) before committing myself.

 

I've had my car two years now and never cared for the stock shifter. I've read all the threads and you will get plenty of answers, but I think the two most popular are the C6 and MGW shifters. Once I get a couple other things done I'll be getting the C6 shifter...

 

you might want to try the anti-venom mod and others have had some success with changing fluids to Amsoil or other synthetic fluids ...
I agree most seem to like the C6 shifter and box, or the MGW and a few like the Hurst.


https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...venom-mod.html

 

After much research I narrowed my search down to two choices. The MGW and the C6. I went with the C6 shifter and could not be happier. Shifts are smooth and I really like the feel of the shifter.

 

PO, have you made sure that the "neutral gate" is properly aligned, on your current shifter? On the other hand, after 16 years of driving, it might simply be a case of "long-term" wear, and your shifter box's bushings have seen better days. If this is the case, just replacing the shifter won't be a 100% fix.

 

Had a C6 shifter installed over the winter, couldn't be happier.

 

Shifter adjustment:

http://www.smokinvette.com/corvettef...ad.php?t=10872


Bushing info:

http://www.zip-corvette.com/catalog/...category/8002/

Recommend you try the Anti Venom mod also.

 

I put those in my car, last year. However, there's also the plastic "cup" that the stick pivots on, that's in the bottom of the shifter box. Southern Car Parts sells them.

Then there are the two bushings that the shifter rod slides on, at the ends of the shifter box. I don't know if they're available separately, or you have to buy an entire shifter box.

 

Having run both a shortened C5 shift lever and a vendor supplied shortened C6 shifter assembly, IMO there is not much difference between them.

The only time I had troubling getting into the right gear was when the clamp at the rear of the shifter box, while not loose, was allowing some movement, so there was sideways "slop" in the lever, so gear selection was not precise. The other thing that can cause a similar effect is if the rubber bushing on the bolts holding the shifter box to the torque tube are shot, then the whole shifter assembly can move a little. The only way to check all this is to pull the center console trim and work the lever around while watching what is going on. That would also enable you to see if the rod that comes out of the back of the shifter box was itself moving side to side due to a worn rear shifter box bushing. You can also see if there is movement in the lever which is not being transmitted to the shift rod that comes out of the rear of the box - your car, like mine, is getting on in years, so you need to look out for wear. If there is slop, wear, etc, a replacement C6 shifter kit will fix it all. Vendors on here supply both "standard" and shortened C6 shifter kits.

Other thoughts: when was the trans fluid last changed? New fluid definitely helps with shifting in my experience.

 

Can this adjustment be done by pulling the boot without pulling the radio bezel, just wondering?? I changed to amsoil and didn't see that much difference and also did the anti-venom mod and saw no difference. I have read that the anti venom mod will not do anything to a stock shifter only aftermarket, don't know if that is true or not.

 

I did the anti venon mod used one washer that was about double the washer most use... and it helped... silky smooth No... third and sixth I would still not power shift for fear of missing them... but, it is better than it was. It's not bad for a week end warrior car, but, it's still the worst shifting vehicle I've ever owned... Including the 3 spd I moved from the column to the floor on my 50 Merc in high school over 30 years ago. Loved the glass pacs on that old flat head V8... push button starter on the dash... so I could turn the switch off and let it frag for a little while then turn the key back on a she'd back fire like crazy... blew the exhaust off a couple of times... coach always knew when I was headed home, I,d pop it off when I went passed his house....ah, the good ole days.

 

To me, a near new stock c5 shifter is the best. The only basic difference from any of the shifters is ratio. Just different pivot points, or length of the handle. I have a Hurst T handle on a 1/2in shorter c5 shifter, and that's about all the shorter throw I need. The extra movement, and leverage is actually very helpful to a quick, sure shift, and you can just look at it and know what gear it is in. T handles work great once you get the right angle (about 8 degrees clockwise) and learn how to use the pressure points on the handle to guide the shifter into the right gates. Been using them for 45 years. If MGW offered a shifter with the stock ratio, I would consider one.

 

I did the anti-venom as well and didn't see a difference. Adding a second washer this weekend. We'll see what happens!

 

Also if you do the shifter adjustment be careful with the tightening of the clamp to the shift rod. I have seen more than one Thread where persons broke the clamp when over tightening it. They can be replaced from a used parts vendor but not a dealer part.

 

Be (a)sure to use Loctite or similar on the threads, and (b) use a torque wrench and tighten to spec - 22 ft lbs. Same for the 4 bshift box to torque tube bolts.I actually replaced the OEM "star" bolts with Grade 8 bolts, just to be sure.

BTW, you do need to get the console trim out to see what is going on. I know it's a PITA, but there you are. By about the 4th time you do it, it is a quick and easy process...LOL.

 

Just picked up my '04 with the MGW installed. My quick takes: the shifting is more precise and involves what appears to be shorter throws. However, it takes a lot more force to get the car into a gear. Maybe this will loosen up in time, maybe not. I'd give the whole experience a B right now. It's an improvement, but not an unalloyed joy.

The shifter **** is quite hard, and that's not to my liking. I might go back to the stock ****.

 

The C5 stock shifter is 100% pure unadulterated garbage. Anyone who says otherwise has never owned a car with a good shifter. It blows my mind that they put such a crap shifter in a car capable of so much (don't get me started on the seats too...ugh).

Having driven my buddy's C6 with a stock shifter, it is lightyears better than the C5. However, it's bit low/small for my tastes. I didn't really like the shape of the **** either.

I installed an MGW a few weeks ago and it's the best mod I've done so far next to proper tires and an alignment.

The shift throws are a bit heavier, but they are shorter. This is a trade-off. You can't have a shorter throw without increasing effort. The anti-venom mod may help. I haven't done it, but I will definitely experiment. It's not what I would call hard to shift, but it's definitely heavier.

Since the throws are shorter, changing gears is much faster. The confidence to know when you're in gear helps this out as well.

The shifter gates are MUCH narrower. This was the largest surprise. It takes VERY little lateral movement to go from 2nd to 3rd or from 4th to 5th. A quick push forward and it almost falls into the next gear.

All the slop in the shifter is gone. 100% of it. There is never any doubt if you are in gear or not. I noticed the largest difference with Reverse, 1st, and when skipping gears (1-3-5).

You'll feel vibration through the handle. No way around this. It shouldn't be a problem because resting your hand on the shifter during driving is a no-no anyway. Unless your car has massive balance problems, it's a non-issue. It's a sports car, not a Bentley.

Overall, I REALLY like the MGW shifter. With the tall "race" delrin ****, it's absolute joy to drive the car. The shifter is a smidge more rearward, but still in a good spot.

It is expensive, but IMO, it's totally worth it. The components are VERY VERY high quality. The how-to videos on youtube are extremely comprehensive as well. It's a total package. It comes with every single tool you'll need minus a 10mm socket, a T45 torx, and some screwdrivers.

Don't bother trying to improve the stock shifter. It's not worth the effort. Buy a replacement. I highly recommend the MGW. Yes, it's worth the money.

 

I know that many people complain about them, but the first "mod" I did to my car, was a Hurst shifter, back in 2002. I played around with the tension adjustments of the shifter, got it where I liked, it, and it's been just fine, ever since....

 

Nice write up on the MGW...thanks

 

On my C5 I have tried the stock C5 shifter, a shortened C5 and shortened C6 shifter with a C6 shifter box- both with the same **** to make sure it was an "apples to apples" comparison. The only usability difference between them was that the C6 shifter moved the **** an inch or so further back.

You cannot compare C5 shifting with the C6 as Tremec did a lot of work to upgrade the shift quality on the boxes used in the C6. Doing the anti venom mode on a C5 helps, but if you want C6 shifting, you need to get your transmission upgraded to C6 specs. Or buy a new one.