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On a short road trip yesterday and went thru a drive thru. Upon exiting the car starting throwing the service active handling and service abs messages on the dic. There was also a distinct burning smell. Maybe it was clutch but I don't think so.
I pulled off in less then a mile and turned the car off and on again. The codes didn't come back the smell went away. Car ran fine for the remaining 20miles.
I have never pulled the codes but this is what is stored:
10 PCM P1431 H
28 TCS C1236 H
C 1282 H
40 BCM B2588 H
B2593 H
A0 LDCM B2282 H
B2284 H
B2264 H
U 1064 H
U1016 H
A1 RDCM B2283 H
B2285 H
U 1064 H
U 1016 H
A6 SCM B0851 H
B2605 H
B2860 H
U1016 H
B0 RFA U1255 H
Not really in a spot where I can research these before driving home. Any advice based on the codes of what is going on?
Should I reset the codes and wait for this to happen again. This would be my standard operating procedure but the smell was concerning.
Thanks for any help
Last edited by dba4life; May 24, 2015 at 12:06 PM.
Reason: typo code
There was a small disc in the drive thru diving the lanes and the right rear wheel went over it. It was about 1-2 inches high. Certainly an interesting question there....
I did mis type the PCM code and have edited the post. It was P1431 and I most certainly do have the fuel gauge dropping to empty issue.
The battery did go dead over the winter when one for the lights in the sunvisors failed to turn off...
I will reset the codes and see what comes back.
Last edited by dba4life; May 24, 2015 at 12:10 PM.
Reason: typo
Put a trickle charger on and get your battery fully charged and make sure you have good connections.. Low voltage can cause a bunch of electrical issues with these cars. Found that out a long time ago.
Are you sure the burning smell was from your car?
First thing I would do is make sure the connections at the battery are tight, and the battery is fully charged. Next I'd pull back the accordion tube in the drivers door, fish out the bundle of wires from the A pillar and clean all the conections in the plugs, replace then do the same with the bundle in the door. Replace the accordion tube. I had a similar problem after going over a speed bump, I did what I said above and have not had a problem since. The give away is the loss of communication codes in the LDCM (left door control module) and the RDCM (Right door control module).
First thing I would do is make sure the connections at the battery are tight, and the battery is fully charged. Next I'd pull back the accordion tube in the drivers door, fish out the bundle of wires from the A pillar and clean all the conections in the plugs, replace then do the same with the bundle in the door. Replace the accordion tube. I had a similar problem after going over a speed bump, I did what I said above and have not had a problem since. The give away is the loss of communication codes in the LDCM (left door control module) and the RDCM (Right door control module).
This is really sad but I don't drive the car much and have not dealt with any issues. I reset the codes over the summer and I will get an occasional service AH message.
The codes stored now are:
PCM P1637H
TCS C1236H
SCM B2605H
The best part is tonight for the first time the car would not fully turn off. I would turn off the car and pull the key and the starter would keep turning over. I finally got it to stop by holding the brake and putting it in gear (6M) and letting out the clutch til it quit.
Am I after grounds here? Wiring in the driver side door accordion? Multiple issues?
How long do you think the starter was still running while driving?
It only happened when I tried to move the car into the garage and then would not turn off. So not long. How would I tell if the starter is still running the next time I start it up?
It had to be the starter had a hiccup. The solenoid was activated to start but never disengaged or there was a mechanical binding there. Nothing else would explain it.
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