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Old May 28, 2015 | 11:53 AM
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Default 99 Coupe newbie

Hello everyone. Had another thread about a brake light problem but thought I would start a thread about the car. Kind of a bitter sweet time for me. My Father passed last October and left me his Vette. Took me till a few weeks ago to actually be ok with taking home to my house. I know he would want me to drive it and it has sat long enough. So here is the run down. 99 Coupe, 6 speed, pewter, magnisium rims, stock with 51,000. He bought it back in 02 with 8000 miles. So got to admit I don't know a ton about it. He said it has the Z-51 suspension. Also has new Nitto 555 tires which helped the ride a ton over the old run flats. How do I find out what options it had, suspension, gearing, etc? It seems pretty loaded with dual power seats, climate control, Bose CD player. So I guess is there any advice for a Vette newbie about the car that may not be obvious? We were in the process of installing a Zex nitrous kit but did not finish yet. Going to get a bottle heater and purge valve before I try that out but will I need a controller of any kind for less then 150 shot? Any other upgrades that are a good recommendation would be great. Not looking to tear the car up just yet but could use some ideas.




And a pick next to my buddies 2015 Vette from Memorial day.


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Old May 28, 2015 | 05:59 PM
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Well... first off sorry about you losing your Dad.
If you don't want to tear it up yet, I wouldn't spray the motor...
Lot's of other upgrades you can do that won't be near as hard on your motor.. IMHO
The RPO list on on the glove box which will tell you most everything about the way the car is optioned...
If you haven' addressed the CL issues now would be a great time to get an LMC5 Module from Compliance Parts and INSTALL it...
Also nice to do the CAGS delete.... I got mine from Zip Corvette
Other nice mods are Anti-Venom Detent and Torque Drive Synthetic for the Tranny...
Most likely needs the Ranger Method or Modified Ranger Method done to clean up the clutch fluid...

Enjoy your pops car...
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Old May 28, 2015 | 07:24 PM
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Sorry about the loss of your father. The car looks very nice. The car is going to be wicked fast when you hit the nitrous button or switch! Have fun with it but be careful. I think your dad would be very upset if you were to wreck his baby.
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Old May 28, 2015 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 73Corvette
Well... first off sorry about you losing your Dad.
If you don't want to tear it up yet, I wouldn't spray the motor...
Lot's of other upgrades you can do that won't be near as hard on your motor.. IMHO
The RPO list on on the glove box which will tell you most everything about the way the car is optioned...
If you haven' addressed the CL issues now would be a great time to get an LMC5 Module from Compliance Parts and INSTALL it...
Also nice to do the CAGS delete.... I got mine from Zip Corvette
Other nice mods are Anti-Venom Detent and Torque Drive Synthetic for the Tranny...
Most likely needs the Ranger Method or Modified Ranger Method done to clean up the clutch fluid...

Enjoy your pops car...
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Old May 28, 2015 | 08:51 PM
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Thanks for the replies guys. I realize inheriting a Vette is not the most popular way to get one. But it is what it is. I am 37 and have had a few quick cars over the years following his foot steps. He was a old street and track racer from the 60s and 70s. I followed suit, but not street anymore, just track. Sold my 86 Camaro drag car last year but had that since I was 18. Had it going high 11s at her best so I am not new to quick cars. As far as the nitrous goes, was thinking of a good 110 shot if I take it to Atco raceway for some extra fun. Probably will go exhaust and a cam route eventually. Heck he would be smiling if it got a big stroker! But just looking to enjoy it for now. Don't want it to be a project car.

I believe the steering lock issue has been addressed because the wheel does not lock when the car is off. Just replaced the MF switch because half my brake lights did not work. Definitely going to do the 1rst to 4th skip shift eliminator. Just took it through NJ inspection today and happy it passed with no problems. He worked at Emery chassis works in Delaware and I will talk to the owner to see if they ever changed the tans fluid. Will take a look at the glove box and see what that has to say.

One other issue is there is a good 2 inch scuff in the front driver rim where he caught a curb. Is there a paint that match the magnisium rims so I could do a little filler? . Thanks again for the help.
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Old May 28, 2015 | 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by cooter99
Thanks for the replies guys. I realize inheriting a Vette is not the most popular way to get one. But it is what it is. I am 37 and have had a few quick cars over the years following his foot steps. He was a old street and track racer from the 60s and 70s. I followed suit, but not street anymore, just track. Sold my 86 Camaro drag car last year but had that since I was 18. Had it going high 11s at her best so I am not new to quick cars. As far as the nitrous goes, was thinking of a good 110 shot if I take it to Atco raceway for some extra fun. Probably will go exhaust and a cam route eventually. Heck he would be smiling if it got a big stroker! But just looking to enjoy it for now. Don't want it to be a project car.

I believe the steering lock issue has been addressed because the wheel does not lock when the car is off. Just replaced the MF switch because half my brake lights did not work. Definitely going to do the 1rst to 4th skip shift eliminator. Just took it through NJ inspection today and happy it passed with no problems. He worked at Emery chassis works in Delaware and I will talk to the owner to see if they ever changed the tans fluid. Will take a look at the glove box and see what that has to say.

One other issue is there is a good 2 inch scuff in the front driver rim where he caught a curb. Is there a paint that match the magnisium rims so I could do a little filler? . Thanks again for the help.
Just because it doesn't lock doesn't mean it's been fixed...there were several band-aid factory recalls...none which actually fixed the problem the REAL fix is the LMC5 module... if that hasn't been installed you will probably experience the CL issue... although the CLB does work as well, just not as simple, as the LMC5.

The Vararam B2 is a nice CIA upgrade... and the C6 shifter is also a nice upgrade
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Old May 28, 2015 | 09:18 PM
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To learn more about your '99 Vette, you can start by reading the information in the following thread:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ion-files.html

As far as the paint code for the magnesium wheels, here it is: 1998-2004 (Magnesium): WA 163D.

Sorry for the loss of you dad. It was very nice of him to leave you the car - it's a real beauty. Hope you get as much enjoyment from it as he did.
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Old May 28, 2015 | 10:03 PM
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Sorry to hear about your fathers passing. Nice looking ride, welcome to the forum!
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Old May 29, 2015 | 10:34 AM
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73Vette, wish I would have known this last week when I had all the covers off the steering column when I replaced the MF switch. Will look into this issue more as I check out the car.


VettemanJack, thanks for the link. Also lots of good links there in the link. I am getting schooled pretty quick. Like I said not new to cars or working on cars but new to Corvettes.
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Old May 29, 2015 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by cooter99
73Vette, wish I would have known this last week when I had all the covers off the steering column when I replaced the MF switch. Will look into this issue more as I check out the car.


VettemanJack, thanks for the link. Also lots of good links there in the link. I am getting schooled pretty quick. Like I said not new to cars or working on cars but new to Corvettes.
The LMC5 will be located in the passenger foot well.. it attaches to the BCM... it is VERY SIMPLE
It doesn't matter what has been done before...

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Old May 29, 2015 | 06:28 PM
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Here is another question, how hot is "ok". Know that I can turn on the AC to turn on the electric fan but I believe it hit 218 when I was sitting in traffic. Can I change the t-stat or something? With my past small blocks I have like 180 stats. Over 200 just seems hot to me, do I need to worry?
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Old May 29, 2015 | 07:39 PM
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You can put in a 160 degree stat for the summer months....220 isn't bad in town...
You still should probably clean your A/C condenser and Radiator .. the best method for REAL cleaning it REMOVAL....

This is a little long but will give you a good working knowledge of your cooling system...

Cooling System Description and Operation

Cooling Fan Control

The engine cooling fan system consists of two electrical cooling fans and three fan relays. The relays are arranged in a series/parallel configuration that allows the powertrain control module (PCM) to operate both fans together at low or high speeds. The cooling fans and fan relays receive battery positive voltage and ignition 1 voltage from the underhood electrical center. The ground path is provided at G102.

During low speed operation, the PCM supplies the ground path for the low speed fan relay through the low speed cooling fan relay control circuit. This energizes the cooling fan 1 relay coil, closes the relay contacts, and supplies battery positive voltage through the cooling fan motor supply voltage circuit to the left cooling fan. The ground path for the left cooling fan is through the cooling fan 3 relay and the right cooling fan. The result is a series circuit with both fans running at low speed.

During high speed operation the PCM supplies the ground path for the cooling fan 1 relay through the low speed cooling fan relay control circuit. After a 3-second delay, the PCM supplies a ground path for the cooling fan 2 relay and the cooling fan 3 relay through the high speed cooling fan relay control circuit. This energizes the cooling fan 3 relay coil, closes the relay contacts, and provides a ground path for the left cooling fan. At the same time the cooling fan 2 relay coil is energized closing the relay contacts and provides battery positive voltage on the cooling fan motor supply voltage circuit to the right cooling fan. During high speed fan operation, both engine cooling fans have there own ground path. The result is a parallel circuit with both fans running at high speed.

The low speed cooling fan is commanded on when the coolant temperature reaches 108°C (226°F). It is turned off if the coolant temperature lowers to 104°C (219°F). The high speed cooling fan is commanded on when the coolant temperature reaches 113°C (235°F). It is turned off if the coolant temperature lowers to 108°C (226°F). When the A/C is on and the coolant temperature reaches 85°C (185°F), the low speed cooling fan will be turned on at vehicle speeds less than 56 kPh (35 mph).



Engine Coolant Indicator(s)

COOLANT OVER TEMP

The IPC illuminates the COOLANT OVER TEMP indicator in the message center when the following occurs:

The PCM detects that the engine coolant temperature exceeds 124°C (256°F). The IPC receives a class 2 message from the PCM indicating the high coolant temperature.
The IPC will also illuminate the CHECK GAGES indicator and a chime sounds when this condition exists.
Cooling System
The cooling system's function is to maintain an efficient engine operating temperature during all engine speeds and operating conditions. The cooling system is designed to remove approximately one-third of the heat produced by the burning of the air-fuel mixture. When the engine is cold, the system cools slowly or not at all. This allows the engine to warm quickly.



Cooling Cycle

Coolant is drawn from the radiator outlet and into the water pump inlet by the water pump. Some coolant will then be pumped from the water pump, to the heater core, then back to the water pump. This provides the passenger compartment with heat and defrost.

Coolant is also pumped through the water pump outlet and into the engine block. In the engine block, the coolant circulates through the water jackets surrounding the cylinders where it absorbs heat.

The coolant is then forced through the cylinder head gasket openings and into the cylinder heads. In the cylinder heads, the coolant flows through the water jackets surrounding the combustion chambers and valve seats, where it absorbs additional heat.

Coolant is also directed to the throttle body. There it circulates through passages in the casting. During initial start up, the coolant assists in warming the throttle body. During normal operating temperatures, the coolant assists in keeping the throttle body cool.

From the cylinder heads, the coolant is then forced to the thermostat. The flow of coolant will either be stopped at the thermostat until the engine is warmed, or it will flow through the thermostat and into the radiator where it is cooled and the coolant cycle is completed.

Operation of the cooling system requires proper functioning of all cooling system components. The cooling system consists of the following components:



Coolant

The engine coolant is a solution made up of a 50-50 mixture of DEX-COOL and clean drinkable water. The coolant solution carries excess heat away from the engine to the radiator, where the heat is dissipated to the atmosphere.



Radiator

The radiator is a heat exchanger. It consists of a core and two tanks. The aluminum core is a crossflow tube and fin design. This is a series of tubes that extend side to side from the inlet tank to the outlet tank. Fins are placed around the outside of the tubes to improve heat transfer from the coolant to the atmosphere. The inlet and outlet tanks are molded with a high temperature, nylon reinforced plastic. A high temperature rubber gasket seals the tank flange edge. The tanks are clamped to the core with clinch tabs. The tabs are part of the aluminum header at each end of the core. The radiator also has a drain **** which is located in the bottom of the left hand tank. The drain **** includes the drain **** and drain **** seal.

The radiator removes heat from the coolant passing through it. The fins on the core absorb heat from the coolant passing through the tubes. As air passes between the fins, it absorbs heat and cools the coolant.

During vehicle use, the coolant heats and expands. The coolant that is displaced by this expansion flows into the surge tank. As the coolant circulates, air is allowed to exit. This is an advantage to the cooling system. Coolant without bubbles absorbs heat much better than coolant with bubbles.



Pressure Cap

The pressure cap is a cap that seals and pressurizes the cooling system. It contains a blow off or pressure valve and a vacuum or atmospheric valve. The pressure valve is held against its seat by a spring of predetermined strength, which protects the radiator by relieving pressure if it exceeds 15 psi. The vacuum valve is held against its seat by a spring, which permits opening of the valve to relieve vacuum created in the cooling system as it cools off. The vacuum, if not relieved, might cause the radiator to collapse.

The pressure cap allows pressure in the cooling system to build up. As the pressure builds, the boiling point of the coolant goes up as well. Therefore, the coolant can be safely run at a temperature much higher than the boiling point of the coolant at atmospheric pressure. The hotter the coolant is, the faster the heat moves from the radiator to the cooler, passing air. The pressure in the cooling system can get too high, however. When the pressure exceeds the strength of the spring, it raises the pressure valve so that the excess pressure can escape. As the engine cools down, the temperature of the coolant drops and a vacuum is created in the cooling system. This vacuum causes the vacuum valve to open, allowing outside air into the cooling system. This equalizes the pressure in the cooling system with atmospheric pressure, preventing the radiator from collapsing.



Surge Tank

The surge tank is a plastic tank with a pressure cap mounted to it. The tank is mounted at a point higher than all other coolant passages. The surge tank provides an air space in the cooling system. The air space allows the coolant to expand and contract. The surge tank also provides a coolant fill point and a central air bleed location.

During vehicle use, the coolant heats and expands. The coolant that is displaced by this expansion flows into the surge tank. As the coolant circulates, air is allowed to exit. This is an advantage to the cooling system. Coolant without bubbles absorbs heat much better than coolant with bubbles.



Air Baffles and Seals

The cooling system uses deflectors, air baffles and air seals to increase system cooling. Deflectors are installed under the vehicle to redirect airflow beneath the vehicle to flow through the radiator and increase cooling. Air baffles are also used to direct airflow into the radiator and increase cooling. Air seals prevent air from bypassing the radiator and A/C condenser. Air seals also prevent recirculation of the air for better hot weather cooling and A/C condenser performance.



Water Pump

The water pump is a centrifugal vane impeller type pump. The pump consists of a housing with coolant inlet and outlet passages and an impeller. The impeller is a flat plate mounted on the pump shaft with a series of flat or curved blades or vanes. When the impeller rotates, the coolant between the vanes is thrown outward by centrifugal force. The impeller shaft is supported by one or more sealed bearings. These sealed bearings never need to be lubricated. With a sealed bearing, grease cannot leak out, and dirt and water cannot get in.

The purpose of the water pump is to circulate coolant throughout the cooling system. The water pump is driven by the crankshaft via the drive belt.



Thermostat

The thermostat is a coolant flow control component. It's purpose is to regulate the operating temperature of the engine. It utilizes a temperature sensitive wax-pellet element. The element connects to a valve through a piston. When the element is heated, it expands and exerts pressure against a rubber diaphragm. This pressure forces the valve to open. As the element is cooled, it contracts. This contraction allows a spring to push the valve closed.

When the coolant temperature is below 91°C (195°F), the thermostat valve remains closed. This prevents circulation of the coolant to the radiator and allows the engine to warm up quickly. After the coolant temperature reaches 91°C (195°F), the thermostat valve will open. The coolant is then allowed to circulate through the thermostat to the radiator where the engine heat is dissipated to the atmosphere. The thermostat also provides a restriction in the cooling system, even after it has opened. This restriction creates a pressure difference which prevents cavitation at the water pump and forces coolant to circulate through the engine block.



Transmission Oil Cooler

The transmission oil cooler is a heat exchanger. It is located inside the right side end tank of the radiator. The transmission fluid temperature is regulated by the temperature of the engine coolant that surrounds the oil cooler as the transmission fluid passes down through the cooler.

The transmission oil pump, pumps the fluid through the transmission oil cooler feed line to the oil cooler. The fluid then flows down through the cooler while the engine coolant absorbs heat from the fluid. The fluid is then pumped through the transmission oil cooler return line, to the transmission.



Coolant Heater

The optional engine coolant heater (RPO K05) is rated at 400 watts and supplies 1365 btu/hr. The engine coolant heater operates using 110-volt AC external power and is designed to warm the coolant in the engine block area for improved starting in very cold weather -29°C (-20°F). The coolant heater helps reduce fuel consumption when a cold engine is warming up. The unit is equipped with a detachable AC power cord. A weather shield on the cord is provided to protect the plug when not in use.
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Old May 30, 2015 | 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by cooter99
One other issue is there is a good 2 inch scuff in the front driver rim where he caught a curb. Is there a paint that match the magnisium rims so I could do a little filler? . Thanks again for the help.
Yes Duplicolor BGN0482 Light Drift Sand Metallic matches perfectly. Then shoot it with BCL0125 Clear Top Coat.

Hey! I'm from Jersey too! What exit?
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Old May 30, 2015 | 02:15 PM
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I'm not sure when they changed, but the RPO list on my '98 was under the passenger side bin cover in the back, not on the glove box lid.
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Old Jun 1, 2015 | 03:58 PM
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Thanks for the link to the paint number. Not that a little paint will fix it but it will be less noticeable.


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