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What keeps killing my Vette?

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Old Jun 21, 2015 | 06:25 PM
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Default What keeps killing my Vette?

1999 Vert. A few weeks ago went out for a ride and the car was dead. Jumped it and took it to Autozone to have it checked. Battery was good and acutually had a Jan 2015 battery (got the car in March). No other problems.

Two weeks ago dead again.. I had left the hood up while working on a few things and thought that was the problem. Did not drive yesterday but started the car and all was fine.

Went to pull it out today to put air in the tires and totally dead. Seems to be dying while sitting.

Ideas?

Thanks
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Old Jun 21, 2015 | 06:54 PM
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Make sure all lights are going off. Under hood, glove compartment etc. If you have an aftermarket amp make sure that isn't on. If you have a voltmeter, unhook a battery cable and see if there is a drain. A C5 should go more than three weeks before battery is dead. Gauge show battery charging? It should show over 13V.
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Old Jun 21, 2015 | 07:01 PM
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Most folks run a tender? Hood light is burned out. Is there an on/off in the glove box or is it like a refrigerator?
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Old Jun 21, 2015 | 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by HarleyVetteNC
Most folks run a tender? Hood light is burned out. Is there an on/off in the glove box or is it like a refrigerator?
If I am not going to drive for a few days I put it on a tender, These cars work better with a fully charged battery however a battery should not be dead in a few days. Did you put it on a trickle charger and fully charge it?
Maybe it's never reached full charge.
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Old Jun 21, 2015 | 07:43 PM
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I don't know how reliable these auto store testers are. My buddy just replaced his bad battery with a another (good) one, even though the local parts store tested it (the bad one) and said it was good. It wasn't. I think it sounds like you have a faulty battery
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Old Jun 21, 2015 | 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Paracitic current drains are common problems on the C5. Here is some info about current draw in the C5 by Bill Curlee, Forums resident Electrical Wizard:

The correct BCM current draw should be 20 Milliamps or less. Most C5 run around 25ma
but I have see some as low as 15 ma.

Leave the engine compartment fuse box for last and start with the passengers compartment
box first. Pull the power seat breakers FIRST! The power seats have a tendancy stay on
and cause this issue.

Also pull the fuses for the Bose system amp.

Examine the car in the dark for lights staying ON.

Once you prove the interior circuits good,,, check the headlight circuits, and then test
the current draw of the alternator.

Look at my electrical stickey. I think I cover this in detail in that post.

There are several COMMON things that cause excessive current draw

-Seat multifunction switch & Lumbar Switch
- Bose Amp relay stuck on
- Alternator didoes bad and drawing current
- Headlight control module bad
- Interior light on (check in the dark)
- Added aftermarket accessory not shutting off






And a thread by him with directions and pictures on isolating the cause:



http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1567522286-post590.html


Using a battery tender only works if the drain is less than the charge current of the tender. Most tenders are about 1.25 amps.
This, but make sure you have a fully charged battery first.
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Old Jun 21, 2015 | 09:32 PM
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Also check the side mount bolts that go into the battery..if corroded a charge cannot get in or out of your battery. Had issues with my SSR and it solved them.
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Old Jun 22, 2015 | 05:42 PM
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All good stuff - thanks!!!
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Old Jun 22, 2015 | 08:25 PM
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When the key is in ON with the engine not running, the voltmeter on the dash shows the voltage output of the battery. When the engine is running it shows voltage output of the charging system.
Key on, not running should show almost 13 volts. Almost 14 volts when running. Does it?
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Old Jun 22, 2015 | 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Not accurate on 2 counts. First the gauges on the C5 are down stream of the ignition switch and it is a well known fact that most if not all C5 ignition switches suffer from carbon build up as well as pitting of the switches contact surfaces that result is voltage drop across the contacts. Second with the key in the ON position and engine off there are many electrical circuits in the C5 that are loading the battery.

So what you see on the gauges with the key ON and engine OFF will be a lower number than if you put a digital multi meter across the battery posts.
That's what it says in the owners manual.
Key on, not running battery output.
Running.... alternator output. Might not be exact, but it's probably close.

Last edited by JR-01; Jun 22, 2015 at 09:26 PM.
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Old Jun 22, 2015 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Wouldn't be the first time the Owners Manual or the Shop Manual were not accurate.

As for how far off it is, do the measurements some time. On my own car the dash shows 12.3 volts with Key ON and engine OFF. But the voltage across the battery posts measures 12.93 with a Digital Multi Meter.
Mine was 12.3 on dash. 12.5 on voltmeter. Under hood light on.
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