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I know there are threads on this and I haven't found any of them that exactly describe what I'm experiencing. My first thought is fuel pump, but another friend has suggested it may be something else as he hasn't heard of many failing
Details of the car... 2001 C5 Convertible w/ 6 speed manual (107k miles)
I was driving on the freeway Friday evening about 70-75mph when the car completely died, still had electronics, but the car had shut itself off. I tried to push the clutch down and restart with no luck. I pulled safely to the shoulder and tried starting the car again. After about 5 minutes, it started again, I took it as a fluke and continued on my way. About 5 miles down the road again, car did the same thing, died and would not start. This time it would start but never really get above 300-400 rpms and then would die again. Had the car towed back home, had a dead battery at this point from cranking over and over and having the 4-ways on. Charged it up last night and tried cranking, just cranks no firing or even attempt at firing.
I tried listening for the fuel pump to whine as I've done in the past with other fuel pump issues, and heard nothing.
There are no codes thrown
no engine light
no security lights
engine cranks
Thoughts?
Last edited by anthonyshaw; Jul 1, 2015 at 09:44 AM.
Reason: issues resolved
Put a pressure gauge on the fuel line and see what the pressure is. If you don't have a gauge most parts stores loan them with a refundable deposit.
Pressure should be about58 lbs and not drop if the engine does start.. If not then you can start with the fuel filter but it would have to be completely blocked and likely would have given you some symptoms in advance that it was a problem.
No issues prior, pulled strong and haven't had any other indication, just dead stopped. Where would I put the gauge at? I would assume 0 pressure could also indicate fuel pump, since I'm not hearing it prime as well, correct?
Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Did you PULL the codes or just expect them to pop up in the DIC?????
I pulled them by pressing Options and Fuel 4x and going through all the options there. I can also pull them with my EFILive Flashscan tonight if you think that would yield different results.
there is a port on the fuel rails. Look and it should be easy to recognize. Plastic cap as I recall covering the schrader valve. Pressure may not be zero but if it is significantly under 58 you know the pump is the likely cause.
Thanks, I'll check this out tonight. Have an AutoZone in town, I'm sure I can borrow a fuel pressure gauge from them.
Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Did you check the fuse and relay???? 13 and 35 respectively in the engine compartment fuse box...........
I did not, I was running late going north after I waited for a tow truck, I will check those tonight as well.
Your problem sound like a fuel pressure problem, check manual for specific p.s.i. ( 50-60 ) ,First thing in any drive-ability problem is scan and pull codes, read data, then see if there is spark and proper fuel pressure or neither, use a gauge and a spark checker, this will point you in the right direction. You should hear a 3 second prime of the pump before cranking, try priming a few times.
Hope this points you in the right direction, keep us posted
Last edited by BK n BLK; Jun 28, 2015 at 02:13 PM.
Your engine needs 3 things to run. Air, fuel and spark. Air is rarely the problem that leaves the other two. If it were running but rough I'd say check the COPs but I doubt they'd all fail simultaneously. Id say fuel is the likely culprit based on what you posted. Since you checked fuses and relays that pretty much leaves pump and filter or possibly pressure regulator. If not then I'd check the PCM as that has a lot to do with your spark on most modern cars. But based on it starting back up once it sounds like a fuel pump in the death throes.
I myself never use starter fluid on fuel injected engines, I have seen others do it successfully and I have seen it cause other issues. ( back fire and damaged M.A.F. ) I have found if you have both no spark and no fuel the ecm/pcm is not allowing it to fire. I have a fuel cleaning kit that use if I need to induce pressure. Try and put a gauge on it. I have used a rubber hammer and hit the fuel tank on Chryslers as someone is cranking to get pump running again for fast diagnosis .
Last edited by BK n BLK; Jun 28, 2015 at 02:24 PM.
when I was having ignition switch issues with my 2001, my car would shut down while driving also. It would crank like crazy but not start. I did the Bill Curley clean up on the switch. I am not saying your problem is the same but go through all the logic checks.
So, update since Friday... I replaced the fuel pump and the car started right up, after allowing it to prime a couple times.
Drove the car all day Saturday, had a great time!
Pulled the car out on Sunday to arrange vehicles to head north for the day, started fine. Wife went to start it to head north, just cranked again, fuel pump not priming again. Rolled it back to the garage, left it sit, pissed off and didn't feel like messing with it anymore.
Am going to check the connection at the pump module tonight and see if something is going on weird there, it ran great Saturday and then nothing on Sunday... seems suspicious.
Do you hear the pump come on when you turn the key to the ON position??? Does the pump run continuously or not at all??
Nothing at all, fuses and relay are both still good.
Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
The filter has the return line to the tank. It the pressure regulating function inside the filter were faulty it could divert the fuel back to the tank and not let the injector side see adequate pressure.
Is the filter original??? Or has it been replaced previously??
No idea, I've owned the car for 4k miles, bought from dealer. It's worth checking tho
A fuel filter sould always be changed with a fuel pump, regardless of the age of the filter, every pump I have ever change says if filter is not change the warrenty is void.
So, I had a chance this afternoon to pull the wheel off and planned to check voltage at the connector with a multimeter, unplugged the connector and looked at the end (trying to figure out how I planned to get my multimeter to work) and noticed the holes for the pins were a little larger than I figured they should be. I took an o-ring pick and narrowed the gaps, plugged it back in and... viola, car started. Problem solved!!!
Too bad the old pump went bye-bye in the trash this morning, oh well... glad it's back up and running again.
Glad to hear your back on the road!
Diagnosing a fault can be a pain, patient's and following the right procedures can help you get through it, and of course all the help from corvette forum.
Last edited by BK n BLK; Jun 30, 2015 at 06:08 AM.
Glad to hear your back on the road!
Diagnosing a fault can be a pain, patient's and following the right procedures can help you get through it, and of course all the help from corvette forum.