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Car Stalls above 2 mph

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Old Jun 25, 2015 | 07:23 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Lee DeRaud
Unless/until he gets a handle on the "low voltage" issue, is any of this other stuff going to matter?
I will know better if i got a handle on the low voltage issue after i install the LMC5 and drive it. I think it's highly possible that it was the passenger door connector that was making problems. I already got a new battery, and i think i got the best battery that i could get (Duralast Platinum 78-AGM). I'm sure my old battery was no good. The LMC5 should arrive here tomorrow then i will try to follow more of what 8VETTE7 told me to do.
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Old Jun 25, 2015 | 08:53 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by ckreider33
Please read my "edit 2" above.. the passenger door is working after moving the connectors around a bit.

The BCM box looks good, no sign of white residue on the outside. i looked to try to open the box to inspect the inside but wasn't sure how to open the box (maybe the screw on the back of it needs to be taken out?) i know not to touch the computer board inside as static could short it out.

The passenger carpet will be able to be removed without taking the seat out of the car? The bolts towards the back of the seat that attach the seat to the car are pretty rusted because they are where the water pools.

edit:

The Star connectors seem ok, i don't see corrosion in them.
As for the BCM, as you can see from the pictures it appears there was water on it at some point. I would like to open it to look inside to see if there is corrosion.
The carpet feels dry, it's been 80F+ these last few days here in NJ.
here are some pictures i just took:












Edit:

I just realized on my Star connectors when i removed the connector maybe it's broken because the top comes off but i just now noticed that the connector is actually still inside. i.e. when i open it, it's not actually disconnecting, only the plastic cover came off of it.
WOW! I started a thread yesterday about a c5 i recently bought with these EXACT same symptoms!!! Seriously start to finish identical problems down to the door functionality. How hard is it to disconnect the star connectors? Did you have to straighten any pins in the door accordion? Did you / are you having any problems with the hvac system? Mine will not blow at all and I am not sure if it is related.

Thanks for your help my friend. I am amazed at the level of knowledge and help on this forum and every day people are helping me out.
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Old Jun 26, 2015 | 08:54 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
The door connector pins in the picture in this thread are twisted somewhat and probably will make better contact if reshaped with a pointed tool like a dental pic.

The Star connectors are easy to disassemble if you look carefullt at the pictures here:







Pull out on the tabs on the ends of the gray piece and lift up.

If there is corrosion I suggest an electrical contact cleaner. Most parts store will have it or for certain a Radio Shack if you still have an open one near you.

There are other possible causes of your door problems. The door control module may be bad. Those are VERY expensive if you can find them but there are exchange services that will take yours and send you a refurb'ed one at a cost effective price. Here is one and if you search Ebay there are many others:

www.autoclockrepair.com
I did get the star connectors open and they are pretty messed up inside. The female pins are pushed pretty far back in some cases. Mine are glued / fastened to the plastic next to the bcm though. I cannot get the white / gray star connectors out into the floor board to reach them. Is that normal?

I cleared the codes and drove it then pulled the new ones. I have 2 codes to report, which is weird b/c 2 days ago it threw about 30 codes but that is when all the lights and warnings came on.

90-HVAC NO COMM
BO-RFA C2120 H C

I repeated the process and only got
90-HVAC NO COMM

PS I am not hi jacking this thread, it is so dangerously similar to my own problem that I am posting in hopes to shed some light on the OP problem while also solving mine. Seems if we work together we can fix this thing a little faster. Thanks to all!
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Old Jun 26, 2015 | 09:44 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 73Corvette
I'm assuming you DID NOT do the Brown wire MOD...
I agree with Lee DeRaud... you really need to address the LOW VOLTAGE issue first... or you may just keep chasing your tail.
OK, what is the brown wire Mod? Haven't heard of that. Is there a link to that anywhere? Never mind, found the links. Will try it sometime.

Last edited by clhughart; Jun 26, 2015 at 10:00 PM.
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Old Jun 26, 2015 | 10:46 PM
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I just want to update that i installed the LMC5 and the car appears to be fixed now.
I drove it down the street with no problems at all. Passenger door is working too as i hoped it would. So very thankful for everyone's help on this forum, especially 8VETTE7. I am going out for a while, i'll try to do a more detailed update tomorrow, i just wanted to let you guys know it's fixed and say thank you.
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Old Jun 26, 2015 | 11:03 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by ckreider33
I just want to update that i installed the LMC5 and the car appears to be fixed now.
I drove it down the street with no problems at all. Passenger door is working too as i hoped it would. So very thankful for everyone's help on this forum, especially 8VETTE7. I am going out for a while, i'll try to do a more detailed update tomorrow, i just wanted to let you guys know it's fixed and say thank you.
Gotta love good news!!
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Old Jun 27, 2015 | 02:36 AM
  #27  
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Once i got to the the store when i went to leave the pull key message happened and it cut the fuel again. I'm looking into what the "brown wire mod" is, because i think i need that. It did the same problem again when i got to my destination and then went to go home. It seems if i follow the message and wait the 10 seconds and try again it then works. There are a few H codes that i'll go write them down and post them. It has not done the berserk thing where it throws every error message and all the gauges drop to zero and says low voltage.
It's a major pain to connect the battery, the wrench i have sucks and it took like a half hour with with lots of "almost connected".. i'm glad i didn't get shocked or worse, the wrench i had to use is all metal.
When i get to HD i'll get some tools i need.. and i need putty to seal the door hinge so water doesn't get in.

edit:
I have the brown wire mod instructions they are on the bottom of page two of the LMC5 instructions.
I'll try to do it tomorrow.. really not looking forward to messing around with the battery again.

edit 2:
I'm thinking about going somewhere about 30 min drive on the highway and doing the brown wire mod when i get there, there will be better tools at the place so i can do the battery easier. The fuel won't cut off when the car is driving right? It should be ok to drive i think.

Last edited by ckreider33; Jun 27, 2015 at 04:35 AM.
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Old Jun 27, 2015 | 07:09 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by clhughart
OK, what is the brown wire Mod? Haven't heard of that. Is there a link to that anywhere? Never mind, found the links. Will try it sometime.
It also should have been in your LMC5 instructions.
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Old Jun 27, 2015 | 01:31 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Once you do as the message says (Pull the key and wait 10 seconds) the problem is cured until the next engine shutoff. Keep doing the "Pull Key...." thing until you get the brown wire mod done. You will have no problems with the engine shutting off while driving due to the LMC5.
I decided to do the brown wire mod here at home. I just did it a little while ago and it went very smoothly, minimal problem getting the battery reconnected. I tested it about 10 times and no error messages. I drove it down the street and tested it a few more times when i got back home with no errors. The diagnostic has not showed any codes at all yet while driving or while parked. Hopefully the CL problem is gone forever now. I will update if it happens again.

It's really good to know even if the pull key message occurs i will still be able to get passed that if i restart the car, I was almost in full panic mode when it happened again last night at the store.

Next on my agenda is to get some puddy and plug up on the side of the door like what that thread showed about how to stop the leaks.
I would like to mention that where the windshield and the wiper gutter meet is not sealed well (the sticky stuff isn't holding it attached) but i'm not sure water is getting in through there. Plugging the door side thing with puddy will be easy so i'll do that first soon.
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Old Jun 27, 2015 | 01:48 PM
  #30  
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A friend was lockout out of his 98 for 3 HRS NOT FUN and went home and installed the MC-5 deal ..and is happy for it so if have not installed one you will as soon as your Corvette locks you out that's been years back he is still up set ..Just saying. Do it..
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