9T3vette- thanks for putting things into perspective. I guess sometimes we get lost in our own sorrow, lol. Let me know if your ever in Honolulu and the cold beers and warm beaches are on me...


C5Dobie- thanks for the information and piece of mind. For me its more of a "type A" cosmetic thing. I'm going to put it on a lift in the next few weeks and change all the fluids. I'm curious and worried about what I'm going to find under there. On a scale of 1-10 on being mechanically inclined I'd give myself a -5 but with all the step by step instructions on here and a certified mechanic working in the on-base self help garage helpfully I can pull this off. Did you just leave yours as is or did you try and fix it? I LOVE driving it!

 

Haha Deal. I'll be there in February for my honeymoon, most of the time in Maui though.

It's my 4th time, love it more every time I visit

 

Cold beer and warm beaches?! Where do I sign up?!?!

 

I just noticed looking the pics you posted a second time - are those 18's on the front too?

Great looking Z BTW.

 

I'm pretty sure they aren't yellow. they look gray to me. hopefully one of the previous owner had them changed out.

 

I'll be here...Nov-Mar is the best time. Right now its hot as b*lls out.

 

GM350Z- right here on corvette forum...free cold beer and free warm Hawaiian beaches for free hard labor on my C5Z

 

Thanks for the compliment. I was looking for a 04 C5Z but found this one and the price was go good to pass up, IMO.


18's rear
17's front

 

LOL, sounds like my day job.

 

I mean I bought the car to drive not to show, the only thing that concerns me from a performance standpoint is dried out bushings and bolts/threads oxidized too much where it effects ability to adjust alignment - I have had an alignment and no issues. I have replaced the stock shocks w/ Bilstein sports and will replace the F/R sway bars w/ new hardware including bushings and endlinks. As far as the suspension parts go, you can get them polished up using an AL cleaner and very fine sand paper or brillo pad followed by polishing tool - but at the end of the day, who really cares? If anything is oxidized to the point of failure I'll replace w/ new shiny stuff LOL!

I am spending $$$ on performance/maintenance mods first, after that if I still have the car and get it to where I want it from a performance standpoint (N/A 450whp w/ good handling/braking) then I'll look at "taking it to the next level" aesthetically and cleaning up oxidized bolts/components.

 

**update**


I was able to remove the bolts holding the door, soaked them in apple cider vinegar for 24 hours, then treated them with CRC protectant. My question is does anyone know how to remove bolts further in? It looks like I may have to remove front 1/4 panel. If I do have to remove it does someone have detailed instructions on how?




David[/QUOTE]

 

Congrats on the pickup and welcome to the Black Z club!

 

[/QUOTE]


David- I would not kill yourself too much over this because (unfortunately) it's going to happen again since you live in Hawaii and cannot escape the high salinity/humidity. As I mentioned mine had similar oxidization (although admittedly not as extensive) due to having been owned previously by a retiree on cape cod in MA - parked in his driveway during summers 2 blocks from beach, stored in uninsulated barn during winters.

I was getting OCD about it as well, but after 2 years+ of owning it now the best advise I can give you is that these cars are very robust & well built, there's a ton of aftermarket support pretty much any part can be replaced or beefed up or polished/powder coated etc.

Bolts are bolts- a little oxidization isn't going to hurt them unless they are corroded to the point you wouldn't be able to remove & reinstall them, I'd leave them be. Bushings and suspension components w/ joints/threads etc is where I would focus my attention- the dry salty air accelerates deterioration/dry rot. Check out my thread on replacing oxidized suspension parts. I found that by replacing the F/R sway bars (which on my car were peeling/rusted in parts) bushings, end links, & F/R inner/outer tie rods/toe links I pretty much addressed the majority of the moving/susceptible parts. I inspected the control arm bushings which are fine....I pretty much found the higher up on the car the less the problem- less direct wind I guess...,I imagine the direct underside of the car gets blasted pretty well w/ salt air just due to the design of the undercarriage.

If the bolt surface oxidization really bothers you that much could always just address the exposed part w/ wd40 and wire brushes of different toughness, or if you really want to pull them you may be better off either a) replacing w/ a 304 or better (marine grade 316L) stainless bolt/hardware if available or b) rather than just removing the oxidization and waiting for it to attack again- get the original hardware powder coated or plated

You may want to check out a corvette rebuilder/restoration specialist- check out vansteel.com they may carry stainless replacement hardware or point you in the right direction

Good luck, and don't stress too much over the little things, who cares about a bit of oxidization when you're living on Hawaii & driving a Z06??!?!

 

Dobie- Doh'....that's brillant and I'm a dumb*ss. After I removed the 1st one and noticed the threads were 100% oxidation free i should of just cleaned them in place. wow! sometimes common sense ain't so common.

I'm not to worried about them not being structurally sound. My issue is the first time someone looks into my car thats the first thing they notice. Makes the car look some what ghetto. It's also the first thing I see when i'm climbing in. It frustrates the hell out of me...

I was hoping you'd respond and talk me off the ledge. I have to admit Hawaii does have it advantages.....year round thongs.

 

Replace your valve springs with Pac 1218. These are the best replacement spring for a stock cam period. To even risk dropping a valve and ruining a motor vs replacing the springs is ignorant. As far as the corrosion its gonna take alot to rust through a bolt, but i wouod probally replace them also just reokace with stainless steel problem solved.