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Going to attack the stereo next, would like pointers

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Old Jul 8, 2015 | 06:14 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Z06ster
If you want the ultimate killer system in your car, here is the recipe I went with (and have no regrets):

1) Sound deaden the car. This will involve removing all interior panels and carpeting. Apply a vibrational dampener followed by with layer of sound absorbing padding.

Note: The above may sound like a real pain but the beauty in it is that with everything out, after the sound deadening is applied, this is when you are going to run your supply, ground, pre-amp out wiring,and speaker wiring...oh... and mount the amps!

2) Perform a double din conversion to your HVAC area and then install a Double din head unit. I am a tremendous fan of Kenwood. I had Pioneer head units...2 to be exact... and I think Pioneer head units are awful.

3) Get two Alpine class D amplifiers: One will be a mono block for bass. I recommend 500W. The other will be a 4 Channel for mid and highs. I recommend 100W/channel. There are a few different mounting options. My preference was the "Stealth" option where the amps are mounted behind the seats on the bulkhead. However, some guys get an Amp rack with cooling fans. If you go this route, you can save some money on the amps and don't need the class D's because the amp rack and support motorized cooling fans. Hopefully, someone will chime in if you want to go this route. I believe you can buy the rack or build it yourself.

4) Speakers....you will get lots of opinions on this. Here is what I went with...

Subwoofer: JL Audio 10" W6V3 which is in a bass hang box. Very important: The JL Audio sub can support a sealed bass enclosure of X square ft. Make sure your bass hang box is within or near this spec.

Woofers:

Fronts: Component Speakers for sure. Many different to choose from. I recommend Focals.

Rears: Alpine SPC13's. They have done the job fine.


Dennis at Double D Mod's has fabulous pricing and outstanding customer service. He can get you setup. For example, one thing you will need is a double din radio bezel... Dennis has them.


i can't even.....
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Old Jul 8, 2015 | 09:09 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by ~STOLEN~
HEY guys, sorry for late replys, been at work all day. instead of multi quoting, i will multi reply to each of you.

4XLR8N--thats a slick set up man, i like the mounting of the amp for sure. do you know if there is enough space under the box that fills the well in the center of the trunk (z06)
Thanks

If you decide to mount your amp like I did, be aware that I used a 3/8" wood board behind the interior trim. Gotta do this to hold the weight of the amp.

As for the well in the trunk of a Z-06, I cannot answer. Perhaps someone else who has used the well (or tried to) for a sub in a Z-06 can chime in.

Best of luck with your project!
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Old Jul 10, 2015 | 10:55 PM
  #23  
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will i be able to bridge a 12 in sub and power the front component speakers with a 4 ch amp?
i have never used a amp for anything other than subs
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Old Jul 11, 2015 | 11:48 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by ~STOLEN~
will i be able to bridge a 12 in sub and power the front component speakers with a 4 ch amp?
i have never used a amp for anything other than subs
the only way is "if" the amp is 3 & 4 channel

if the 4 channel amp its 3 channel capable you can use the front R, front L for the doors and use the rear "bridged" for the sub

if your trying to keep it simple with a good set of speakers you can run them off the head unit and just run an amp for the sub, you do get cleaner sound if your mids & highs are ran threw an amp though, but I had some really good sounding systems where I only used a amp for the sub with a "nice" head unit powering mids & highs

if your a true audiophile type you will tell a difference, if your just looking for better louder system powering off your head unit will do the trick
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Old Jul 12, 2015 | 11:15 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Stroker87
the only way is "if" the amp is 3 & 4 channel

if the 4 channel amp its 3 channel capable you can use the front R, front L for the doors and use the rear "bridged" for the sub

if your trying to keep it simple with a good set of speakers you can run them off the head unit and just run an amp for the sub, you do get cleaner sound if your mids & highs are ran threw an amp though, but I had some really good sounding systems where I only used a amp for the sub with a "nice" head unit powering mids & highs

if your a true audiophile type you will tell a difference, if your just looking for better louder system powering off your head unit will do the trick

right on man i appreciate it

i found a 4ch that im pretty happy with purchasing that will only power my sub and my front component speakers

planning out the sound deadening materials now. found a local (texas)company (GTMAT) that makes something comperable to the actual dynamat that ill be using.
comes with roller and tape as well

only thing im trying to decide on as well as, is buying and installing a mgw shifter while its all apart because i want all the deadening material to wrap around the boot securely. i only wanna pull this apart one time lol

just combining that price with an entire system seems like a not of go fast parts i could buy in part LOL
oh well, car guy problems right?
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Old Jul 12, 2015 | 02:34 PM
  #26  
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I feel you man! i've been living with a crappy aftermarket radio in my car (horrible sound) since the moneys been going to the "GFF" (Go Fast Fund) lol

only thing I have left for right now is install my nitrous kit and get it back on the dyno so i'm starting now to look at audio stuff but keep seeing car pics with splitters so...

mod life
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Old Jul 12, 2015 | 07:43 PM
  #27  
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I did my complete system. Ken wood head unit. I wired into the harness direct with the GM RAP unit. Here's pics of speakers. I love my small powered sub from Kenwood mounted on my partition.








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Old Jul 12, 2015 | 10:05 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Z06ster
1) Sound deaden the car. This will involve removing all interior panels and carpeting. Apply a vibrational dampener followed by with layer of sound absorbing padding.

Note: The above may sound like a real pain but the beauty in it is that with everything out, after the sound deadening is applied, this is when you are going to run your supply, ground, pre-amp out wiring,and speaker wiring...oh... and mount the amps!

2) Perform a double din conversion to your HVAC area and then install a Double din head unit. I am a tremendous fan of Kenwood. I had Pioneer head units...2 to be exact... and I think Pioneer head units are awful.

3) Get two Alpine class D amplifiers: One will be a mono block for bass. I recommend 500W. The other will be a 4 Channel for mid and highs. I recommend 100W/channel. There are a few different mounting options. My preference was the "Stealth" option where the amps are mounted behind the seats on the bulkhead. However, some guys get an Amp rack with cooling fans. If you go this route, you can save some money on the amps and don't need the class D's because the amp rack and support motorized cooling fans. Hopefully, someone will chime in if you want to go this route. I believe you can buy the rack or build it yourself.

4) Speakers....you will get lots of opinions on this. Here is what I went with...

Subwoofer: JL Audio 10" W6V3 which is in a bass hang box. Very important: The JL Audio sub can support a sealed bass enclosure of X square ft. Make sure your bass hang box is within or near this spec.

Woofers:

Fronts: Component Speakers for sure. Many different to choose from. I recommend Focals.

Rears: Alpine SPC13's. They have done the job fine.


Dennis at Double D Mod's has fabulous pricing and outstanding customer service. He can get you setup. For example, one thing you will need is a double din radio bezel... Dennis has them.
I have almost this exact setup in my vette, except with a Pioneer head unit (I am a fan), JL amps and a 12W6V2. I've had some high-end sound systems over the years, and am very pleased with this setup. Definitely go with Focal speakers, they sound incredible.
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Old Jul 13, 2015 | 10:24 PM
  #29  
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OK GUYS

after much thought and consideration, i pulled the trigger on my system. i did some thinking and decided a custom radio bezel and double din isnt in my budget or practical for ME.
Dennis at DD was very fast in replying to my email with about 6-7 questions, answered all of them and his prices were great. i just cant justify for a car i only drive 1-2 times a week around the city. dont travel in it so GPS isnt the much needed. the sound is all i want and i can get that through a cheep radio, i just decided on a flip out

so what i am doing is relocating the hvac to the radio location and putting a 7in flip out screen where the hvac WAS located. i think it looks cool, its cost effective for ME. i know you might not be a fan. but thats what im doing so get over it LOL

first thing i did after ordering was pulled the entire interior out for the sound deadening to go down. i ordered 100sq ft from gtmat outta texas. so im looking fwd to putting that down, to keep sound IN and heat OFF my damn feet(hopefully)

order list is as follows-

pioneer avh-6700dvd
orion 12in dvc sub
orion 4ch 2000 watt amp
alpine 6.5 sxe components frnt (gonna mount tweeters in door handle cup) STOKED !!!! lol
alpine sxe coaxial 5.25 for rear
gtmat sound deadener


i appreciate you guys helping me ,and answering my questions

looking fwd to installing and posting up some pics
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Old Jul 14, 2015 | 01:01 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Vetteman Jack
get in touch with Dennis and talk over what you want out of your stereo. Dennis should be able to give you recommendations and help you with a killer system.
I'm with Jack! Contact Dennis! Great guy and we are lucky to have him here... Anything I have seen him put his hands on rocks and or looks amazing
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