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Heads or clutch?

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Old Jul 14, 2015 | 02:32 PM
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Default Heads or clutch?

Hello, I have a 2000 M6 vette with 75k miles. It will be going into the shop soon for a cam swap. The cam thats going in is 225/231 with .612/.617 lift on a 113 LSA. Its gonna have all supporting mods for the cam, as well as headers and a vararam. This got me thinking, I daily the car (90% highway use) and go to the local drag strip most weekends if I can. The clutch is still stock, and im getting DR's. Ive been looking into getting a set of p/p 243 heads and putting them on the same time as the cam swap. Should I upgrade my clutch and not do the head swap or head swap and leave the stock clutch? I dont have room in my budget for both or I would! Will the stock clutch hold the extra power? Even with out abuse? Or should I cam swap only and upgrade clutch then do heads down the road? Thanks Brandon
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Old Jul 14, 2015 | 03:23 PM
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Clutch. No point in having all that power if you cant put it down to the ground....
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Old Jul 14, 2015 | 03:39 PM
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I"ve read here that the stock clutch will hold a lot of extra power, and I would suggest researching that. I seem to remember some tossing around 700 hp, but I wouldn't post that as a fact. All I post is from what I read, so don't put money on it. I just drive around, any advice beyond that level would be stretching it.
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Old Jul 14, 2015 | 03:46 PM
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If it were me I would continue to save and just do it all at once. Leave the stock cam and everything until I can do heads cam clutch tune in one shot. Especially if the clutch is good now, I would try to get my passes as good as possible while mostly stock, then see how much the heads/cam helps out.
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Old Jul 14, 2015 | 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by dbgoodwin
If it were me I would continue to save and just do it all at once. Leave the stock cam and everything until I can do heads cam clutch tune in one shot. Especially if the clutch is good now, I would try to get my passes as good as possible while mostly stock, then see how much the heads/cam helps out.
Youd be surprised how many clowns cant drive the car stock and then throw money at more power only to have the car become even slower in there hands!
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Old Jul 14, 2015 | 04:15 PM
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Don't pay shop labor to do the same job twice. So yeah, do heads if that's your goal.

The stock clutches suck. No way will they live happily at 700hp unless you only drive in parades. I killed mine with a near stock car.

Also PLEASE look into upgrading tq tube/driveshaft bushings as they like to not get mentioned around here when doing a clutch. A strong clutch will rip what you have left of the stockers all to ****...ask me how I know.
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Old Jul 14, 2015 | 07:00 PM
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with the mods your talking about your going to be at less than 400 rwhp your current clutch should be more than adequate. I installed the same cam a couple of years ago w/ 243 heads, headers, and vararam. The car really came together after adding a fast 92, 92mm throttle body and maf and larger intake power duct.
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Old Jul 14, 2015 | 07:40 PM
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clutch will last you for awhile you will make what maybe low 400's? Should be plenty of time to save up for something as long as you aren't horse beating it and launching it every time.. Ill say it because I have done it..... a clutch swap is pretty easy/straight forward on these cars if you are short on cash like me or balling on a budget like me I suggest you start doing your own work. You will save lots of money and learn at the same time. That's if you have the tools and time. You don't need anything special that you cant rent or don't have. You may need a buddy helping line it back in but other than that it's easy.
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Old Jul 14, 2015 | 08:25 PM
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Yeah clutch job sucks b-hole if it's just you and some jackstands...

Good luck trying to keep the entire subframe assy balanced on the jack with the Trans/diff attached; never mind getting it splined. It's twice as bad if you run a twin disc.

I loathe doing that one again and I'm pretty damn experienced.
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Old Jul 14, 2015 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by RSbeast
Yeah clutch job sucks b-hole if it's just you and some jackstands...

Good luck trying to keep the entire subframe assy balanced on the jack with the Trans/diff attached; never mind getting it splined. It's twice as bad if you run a twin disc.

I loathe doing that one again and I'm pretty damn experienced.
I did it in a few hours by myself and only had 1 tranny jack the thing literally is almost on the ground before it pops out I have a twin disk and had eric come by and help install it and we stabbed it in within minutes thats all the help I had Maybe total of 10 bolts or less.. I dont know I'm not experienced and hell I paid someone to put headers in my car the first time. OP if you want install pics let me know or search my name and you can see my clutch install lots o pics. IMO it's easy hell I just changed the accumulator out on the ac and thought that was a nightmare
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Old Jul 14, 2015 | 10:08 PM
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Lol...yeah put that thing back in with just you laying on your back. I suppose if it splined the first shot through both discs and the pilot, you could run your 6 tq tube bolts in and be on your merry way.

Believe me that job sucks bad with one guy.
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Old Jul 15, 2015 | 08:35 AM
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Thanks for the advice guys!
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Old Jul 15, 2015 | 01:41 PM
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If I do just a clutch Job I find it easier to just pull the motor out the top. Way easier and about 3-4 hours worth of work. Call me crazy!
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Old Jul 15, 2015 | 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by dbgoodwin
If it were me I would continue to save and just do it all at once. Leave the stock cam and everything until I can do heads cam clutch tune in one shot. Especially if the clutch is good now, I would try to get my passes as good as possible while mostly stock, then see how much the heads/cam helps out.
Sounds like very good advice.
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Old Jul 16, 2015 | 03:19 PM
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Clutch 1st
Then Heads&Cam.

or do all 3 at same time.

No sense on doing the cam then the heads later. Not to mention that cam will need good springs immediately.

I'd also recommend a new Balancer. The stock one sucks.
Not sure what you consider supporting mods for a cam.
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Old Jul 17, 2015 | 08:47 PM
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My stock clutch needed to be replaced at 90,000 miles without the mods you are having done. If you can't save enough money in thej next 20-30,000 milles to get the clutch, you may want to get the clutch first. I had a Centerpiece dual friction clutch installed that lasted 160,000 miles and can handle the power you will have.
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