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Anti-Venom Mod, Amsoil Torque Drive Fluid (tranny), CAGS/Skip Shift Delete, Modified Ranger Method (till the fluid stays clean), Switched to LUCAS DOT 4 Synthetic Fluid (clutch fluid), C6 Z06 Shifter and box (cleaned and lubed), Perfect Alignment and TIGHT... Mine shifts like butter compared to before I started....
I also noticed ours is a little smoother if I don't depress the clutch pedal completely to the floor... just enough to shift it, although it's taking a while to break the habit of just pushing the pedal down without going all the way to the stop...
Last edited by 73Corvette; Aug 17, 2015 at 10:20 AM.
I did the anti venom mod and saw no difference and I believe I read somewhere on the forum that it wouldn't help if U had stock shifter which I have. Can anyone validate this. I also changed to the amsoil fluid and saw no difference to speak of. My trannny shifts really smooth with a little notch in third and sometimes a little tricky to get into reverse.
No reason to have it done with a stock shifter unless you plan on switching it out for a short throw. The "mod" helps with the notchy feel of short throws.
Has anyone tried a new detent ball spring assembly??? When I had mine out to add a washer to my stock shifter, I noticed the ball seemed to want to bind, instead of roll, even with finger pressure. Seems like an issue.
I did the anti venom mod and saw no difference and I believe I read somewhere on the forum that it wouldn't help if U had stock shifter which I have. Can anyone validate this. I also changed to the amsoil fluid and saw no difference to speak of. My trannny shifts really smooth with a little notch in third and sometimes a little tricky to get into reverse.
Seems like from what I've researched on the forum that some it helps and some it doesn't... It did help mine, both the Mod and the Torque drive both were subtle but helped... add all that I've done put together and it's a BIG difference....The most noticeable diff was when I installed the C6 Z06 shifter and box... I don't really know WHY either because the lower box looks exactly the same... and the shifter just has a little curve back to it..., but for SOME reason it made a BIG difference.
I have the MGW shifter and with the mod it's "night and day"
Same results here too.
I have the MGW shifter that seemed stiff and notchy. I did the antivenom mod with one washer and it works much better. Less effort to shift and smoother.
I did the anti venom mod and saw no difference and I believe I read somewhere on the forum that it wouldn't help if U had stock shifter which I have. Can anyone validate this. I also changed to the amsoil fluid and saw no difference to speak of. My trannny shifts really smooth with a little notch in third and sometimes a little tricky to get into reverse.
Originally Posted by Torch Rot Z
No reason to have it done with a stock shifter unless you plan on switching it out for a short throw. The "mod" helps with the notchy feel of short throws.
I have stock shifter shortened 3/4" 2-1/8" shift ball & as mentioned I only have an issue with reverse sometimes, all other gears are better than without the mod, I currently am using one washer.
I have the MGW shifter and with the mod it's "night and day"
I've got the MGW (with MGW lower box) and built MN12 with billet keys which make things bit more tight than normal in my experience. Just changed Tranny fluid to Amsoil, going to bleed the clutch with Dot4 specific (likely ATE or Motul RBf600) and gonna try the Anti-Venom mod this week
The MGW assembly is great in itself but it is a bit notchy and sometime requires more effort than it should. Hopefully it works
I've got the MGW (with MGW lower box) and built MN12 with billet keys which make things bit more tight than normal in my experience. Just changed Tranny fluid to Amsoil, going to bleed the clutch with Dot4 specific (likely ATE or Motul RBf600) and gonna try the Anti-Venom mod this week
The MGW assembly is great in itself but it is a bit notchy and sometime requires more effort than it should. Hopefully it works
How did it change when you switched to the MGW? I have one on order right now.
Our C5 already had the B&M Ripper shifter when we acquired it. Performed the anti-venom mod about 9 months later. Significant improvement.
FWIW, I've now driven several C7 M7 cars with and without the MGW shifter. Huge improvement. Once we decide on a C7, the first mod, an MGW shifter, will be installed within the first 30 days.
Two and I had a bit of a nightmare, did the first one and wasn't completely happy so I put it back up on my ramps to install the second one and got into a bit of a hurry and cross-threaded the detent bolt !!!I have many years as a mechanic and I know better than to start a bolt with a wrench or socket ???? Three hours later I finally got it back in !!!!(lots of filling and swearing) So much for being in a hurry !!!! "haste makes waste" !!!!!!!!
Two and I had a bit of a nightmare, did the first one and wasn't completely happy so I put it back up on my ramps to install the second one and got into a bit of a hurry and cross-threaded the detent bolt !!!I have many years as a mechanic and I know better than to start a bolt with a wrench or socket ???? Three hours later I finally got it back in !!!!(lots of filling and swearing) So much for being in a hurry !!!! "haste makes waste" !!!!!!!!
I don't think the best shifter in the world will ever make the trans in my 97 shift better.
The shifter is just basically a pivot point with different ratios, depending on the shifter. I'm back the stock shifter, from a hurst, and they both have the same 1st and reverse random hang ups. Tried the venom/oil, etc., but no change. It has to have something to do with the shift gate in the tranny being messed up, or a dragging detent ball? Really not ready for a new transmission. MGW will not fix it I'm sure! The first manual car I learned to drive, was my dad's 64 Plymouth Valiant, with a
"3 on the tree". That shifted better than my C5!