Does this starter wire look normal or burned?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Port St Lucie Florida
Does this starter wire look normal or burned?
I have been having troubles of the alternator charging the battery and my car stalled out so I had to get a new battery.
Anyway got under car took this photo of starter wire. Is it burned? from heat it does not look normal?
I didn't notice any loose wire like some would say?
Does anyone have any other suggestions? I already posted another thread regarding my problem.
Anyway got under car took this photo of starter wire. Is it burned? from heat it does not look normal?
I didn't notice any loose wire like some would say?
Does anyone have any other suggestions? I already posted another thread regarding my problem.
Last edited by corvet786c; Oct 11, 2015 at 06:56 AM.
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Hard to say whether the wire is just dirty or has had some excessive heat. However, have you had the alternator tested to ensure it is providing sufficient output to keep the battery charged? If not, take it to a local parts store - they will usually test it for free and then you can rule out whether the alternator is the culprit.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,138
Likes: 139
From: Port St Lucie Florida
Hard to say whether the wire is just dirty or has had some excessive heat. However, have you had the alternator tested to ensure it is providing sufficient output to keep the battery charged? If not, take it to a local parts store - they will usually test it for free and then you can rule out whether the alternator is the culprit.
But I read somewhere on LS1tech that even though the alt tested fine does not mean it is still good, the charging circuit could go bad or something like that.
Can anyone confirm this?
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Kannapolis NC
Take a look at the post that red wire attaches to. If the bakelite insulation around that post is charcoaled, you need at least a new solenoid if you can replace it. Most replace the starter and solenoid together. Once that bakelite turns to black powder the post will turn when you try to tighten the nut and won't make good contact. Your voltage will jump up and down from 11 to 14 volts as the car is running, or if really bad, won't ever charge the battery.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,138
Likes: 139
From: Port St Lucie Florida
Take a look at the post that red wire attaches to. If the bakelite insulation around that post is charcoaled, you need at least a new solenoid if you can replace it. Most replace the starter and solenoid together. Once that bakelite turns to black powder the post will turn when you try to tighten the nut and won't make good contact. Your voltage will jump up and down from 11 to 14 volts as the car is running, or if really bad, won't ever charge the battery.
POS on bolt (rubber boot) ground on chasis, while car is running. Should I be looking for 14Volts?
I guess I have to take off the pass header? Is this complecated to do? To access the starter relay?
I am getting 11.5 volts while driving and going down.
Last edited by corvet786c; Oct 11, 2015 at 09:09 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Kannapolis NC
I want to test the alternator, what is the proper way to test it.
POS on bolt (rubber boot) ground on chasis, while car is running. Should I be looking for 14Volts?
I guess I have to take off the pass header? Is this complecated to do? To access the starter relay?
I am getting 11.5 volts while driving and going down.
POS on bolt (rubber boot) ground on chasis, while car is running. Should I be looking for 14Volts?
I guess I have to take off the pass header? Is this complecated to do? To access the starter relay?
I am getting 11.5 volts while driving and going down.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 807
Likes: 239
I want to test the alternator, what is the proper way to test it.
POS on bolt (rubber boot) ground on chasis, while car is running. Should I be looking for 14Volts?
I guess I have to take off the pass header? Is this complecated to do? To access the starter relay?
I am getting 11.5 volts while driving and going down.
POS on bolt (rubber boot) ground on chasis, while car is running. Should I be looking for 14Volts?
I guess I have to take off the pass header? Is this complecated to do? To access the starter relay?
I am getting 11.5 volts while driving and going down.
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Melting Slicks
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From: Miami FL
In any case, IMHO, it's something worth checking.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Port St Lucie Florida
On the back of the alternator is a rubber boot covering the bolt to which the large red wire that goes over to the starter is attached. Move back the rubber boot over the bolt. With the engine running measure the voltage from that bolt to a good ground. I personally like the neg battery post but then I have a top post battery in my 04 which makes that much easier than on the side post batteries of the earlier year C5's. Should be 14 or more volts at that point. If significantly less then the alternator is suspect.
If it measures 14 or more volts make note of the actual voltage reading. Then measure the voltage across the battery posts with the engine running. Reading should be very close to what you read at the alternator. If it is significantly less then you need to get at the connections at the bolt on the starter solenoid to find out why.
If it measures 14 or more volts make note of the actual voltage reading. Then measure the voltage across the battery posts with the engine running. Reading should be very close to what you read at the alternator. If it is significantly less then you need to get at the connections at the bolt on the starter solenoid to find out why.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,138
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From: Port St Lucie Florida
I found the problem, its the alternator, while vehicle was idling the same charge on battery 12 volts was same charge as idling 12 volts, then I ran a gound cable from battery to the pos on alternator while vehicle was idling and the value was only 1.
I need a rebuilt.
I need a rebuilt.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6,644
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From: OK
I found the problem, its the alternator, while vehicle was idling the same charge on battery 12 volts was same charge as idling 12 volts, then I ran a gound cable from battery to the pos on alternator while vehicle was idling and the value was only 1.
I need a rebuilt.
I need a rebuilt.
IMHO...
I TOTALLY agree with getting your OEM RE built... or if you get another DON'T exchange your old one till you know it works... many bad experiences with re manufactured alternators on the C5. Do your research here for the correct part # and where to buy it, IF you go the reman route...
Last edited by 73Corvette; Oct 12, 2015 at 08:37 AM.
Le Mans Master
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From: Columbia SC
I makes no sense to me either Chuck.
However, if the alternator was working and he connected a cable from the alternator output to the battery negative side I would have expected all hell to break loose with huge sparks and the alternator to probably go up in smoke.
I surely hope he can clarify.
Mr. Sam
However, if the alternator was working and he connected a cable from the alternator output to the battery negative side I would have expected all hell to break loose with huge sparks and the alternator to probably go up in smoke.
I surely hope he can clarify.
Mr. Sam
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,138
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From: Port St Lucie Florida
OK I tested the alternator positive straight to the battery and guess what 14.2 volts on DIC. So the starter positive was corroted and loose causing the short. I tested the pos starter cable and it was getting the 12 volts to the battery when I took it out. So I bought a new pos terminal cable running from batt to starter. Because the bottom of cable as u can see in the photo above was burned chips falling of the ends. All this morning taking off the header and getting things done.
Sorry about above reply, I was using the multimeter.
Sorry about above reply, I was using the multimeter.
Last edited by corvet786c; Oct 12, 2015 at 03:19 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,138
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From: Port St Lucie Florida
Actually corrosion on an electrical connection causes an OPEN or resistance and not a short. A shorted electrical connection is synonymous with sparks or smoke and flames.
Anyway, glad that you found the problem and were able to correct it. Hope you were able to position the wiring to the post on the starter solenoid as far away from the header as possible to avoid a quick reoccurrence of the problem.
Thanks for updating the results.
Anyway, glad that you found the problem and were able to correct it. Hope you were able to position the wiring to the post on the starter solenoid as far away from the header as possible to avoid a quick reoccurrence of the problem.
Thanks for updating the results.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6,644
Likes: 479
From: OK
I makes no sense to me either Chuck.
However, if the alternator was working and he connected a cable from the alternator output to the battery negative side I would have expected all hell to break loose with huge sparks and the alternator to probably go up in smoke.
I surely hope he can clarify.
Mr. Sam
However, if the alternator was working and he connected a cable from the alternator output to the battery negative side I would have expected all hell to break loose with huge sparks and the alternator to probably go up in smoke.
I surely hope he can clarify.
Mr. Sam
If you run the gound cable from the pos on alt to batt and only 1 value, then the batt charge on battery idling at 12 volts is same as charge idling, then a rebuilt would be needed. Problem solved! Jeez....
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Kannapolis NC
OK I tested the alternator positive straight to the battery and guess what 14.2 volts on DIC. So the starter positive was corroted and loose causing the short. I tested the pos starter cable and it was getting the 12 volts to the battery when I took it out. So I bought a new pos terminal cable running from batt to starter. Because the bottom of cable as u can see in the photo above was burned chips falling of the ends. All this morning taking off the header and getting things done.
Sorry about above reply, I was using the multimeter.
Sorry about above reply, I was using the multimeter.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,138
Likes: 139
From: Port St Lucie Florida
Replacing the red wire may get your charge up for a while, but you still need to check the post that it connects to and the insulation around it. If it's burnt, the heat will burn your new cable fairly quickly. That heat built up due to loose or corroded connections and header heat. You'll still have both those with a new red wire.