Gradually began to find it harder to shift, especially after being driven some distance in the summer heat.

Thought it might be air in the clutch fluid. Used turkey baster method several times to extract blackish fluid and replace with new Motul 600.

Shifting continues to be difficult. Friction point is now near floor. Also notice that it is possible to move the car just trying to put the tranny in 1st while the clutch is fully depressed.

Double clutching works fine. Rev matching also works fine. Downshifts are fine.

Finally decided to bleed clutch. Got some air out of the clutch line. Now 100% Motul 600.

Checked to see if clutch desengages now...Not completly :eek:

Rotated clutch adjusting plate...still does not fully disengage. :eek: :eek:

Finally notice that one of the clutch pressure plate bolts is finger loose. Then find that 5 out of 6 can be unscrewed without a wrench? :eek: :eek: :eek:

Remove and retorque all 6 bolts in stages and in sequence. Finally clutch disengages.

Haven't driven it yet. Will finish putting the cats back on tomorrow.

Suspect the lifespan for this clutch will be short , because most of the adjustment is used up already with about 14.5K miles.

This car only had 3 miles on it when I got it, so I think it must have come from Bowling Green without spec torque on these clutch to flywheel bolts. If you have a problem or the occasion to check, put a torque wrench on these bolts and make sure they will click 47 ft. lbs.

This Z06 was built July 31, 2001.


[Modified by YardDog, 10:25 PM 8/24/2002]

 

YardDog,

I had the same thing happen to me when i picked up my brand new 97 coupe....it just kept getting harder and harder to shift...then finally it would move with the clutch all the way to the floor.
The dealer simply torqued down the fly wheel and I drove it for another 3 years till I traded in late 2000 for my Z06.
Wasn't properly torqued at the assembly plant... :mad

 

Makes one wonder...just HOW many skeletons are still lurking, or thought to be a SPECIFIC problem, when in reality it is pandemic....
Thank the Lord for the Net........ :D
It's amazing, I find that whenever I go to any dealer, I know MORE about their cars, and what problems are happening than even the Service Advisor/Mgr........ :crazy:


[Modified by ZO6LS6, 9:31 PM 8/25/2002]

 

BLACK/BLACKZ06,
Thanks for the response. It is comforting to know others have overcome this same problem. I see you have a "Star Spec StageIII Carbon Clutch & Pressure Plate." That sound like a serious upgrade I might be interested in at replacement time.


Z06LS6,
You are right, the extent of the problem is unknown. For saftey reasons I hope it is extremely limited, but there are a lot of threads about clutch problems... :confused:

 

Normally it's the Pressure Plate bolts that back out, eh?

 

M y peddle is ok but it just slips ,if you drive really easy it's ok ,but when you put you foot into it it slips only when first to 2nd and they it slow stops sliping,going to take it to the dealer,
Gary :confused:

 

This is a dumb question, but I have to confess - all my experience is with the tranny in the front. So... is it easier to get to the clutch on these cars - or harder? What is involved?

Thanks,

 

MelloYellow...In my case, yes, the bolts that hold the clutch and pressure to the flywheel were loose.

HIRPOWERZ06...The dealer is probably the best choice because if they find something as bad as several loose bolts, you would have a very reasoned case for a new clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing...free. :D

Tom Steele...It is much easier to inspect the clutch, but replacing it is more involved that with conventional designs. A half dozen bolts secure an inspection plate that can be removed quickly to view the clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel. Changing the clutch "by the book" apears to require disassembling most of the drive train aft of the clutch. I think I am going to try to watch someone else do this before I attempt it on my own car...if I ever do.


:cheers: