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Removing swirls

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Old Nov 23, 2015 | 09:58 PM
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Default Removing swirls

I recently got a Porter Cable 7424xp, McGuiars 105 and 205, and an assortment of pads.

But before I even touch my newly bought 2003 black Corvette coupe with that stuff, I am practicing on my very swirled white 2003 GMC Yukon Denali.

I've only done the hood but the results have been a huge improvement and I can't wait to get going on the Vette.

For those of you familiar with finishes on all GM vehicles in 2003, do you think the process with the Vette will be comparable to the Denali? I've read multiple times on this forum that the clearcoat on the Vette is extremely hard. Is that the case GM-wide or just a Vette-only thing?

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Old Nov 24, 2015 | 12:40 AM
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I have the same tools and the results I get on my 2000 and 2001 are awesome. You will have great success after practicing onthe denali.
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Old Nov 24, 2015 | 04:21 AM
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You will find that the Vette will take a serious amount of more work than the Denali. The clear on the C5 is VERY hard and it takes a pretty abrasive compound to get adequate results with the PC7424. I just went over my entire car earlier this year using Menzerna IP and it shined up nice but barely made a dent in the minor surface defects. Do some research in the car care section here. LOTS of good advice.
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Old Nov 24, 2015 | 07:58 AM
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I've used the same equipment and products on my 98 with great results.I agree w/ fastbird as to the amount of effort. However I believe the results will be well worth it.
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Old Nov 24, 2015 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Fastbird
You will find that the Vette will take a serious amount of more work than the Denali. The clear on the C5 is VERY hard and it takes a pretty abrasive compound to get adequate results with the PC7424. I just went over my entire car earlier this year using Menzerna IP and it shined up nice but barely made a dent in the minor surface defects. Do some research in the car care section here. LOTS of good advice.
C5 clear isn't that hard, its a urethane based clear not a ceramic based clear Menzerna is very good and more than adequate, its the right pads, operator and patience thats gets rid of swirls.
Most people think this is a two hour process, it takes me 5-6 hours to do my car.
Cutting pad and Menzerna
Polishing pad then Menzerna
Polishing pad #2 then Menzerna
Polishing pad #2 and Admas polish
Polishing pad #3 and Adams sealer
Jewelers Pad and Adams Glaze
Jewelers pad and Adams Americana wax








Last edited by Millenium Z06; Nov 24, 2015 at 08:41 AM.
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Old Nov 24, 2015 | 08:43 AM
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I use the the 105 and 205 but similar process. But I start by claybar-ing. If you go to youtube and search for junkman2000 he has a ton of "how to" videos that are helpful to get going. His "delivery" is a bit whacky, but the content is good.

Originally Posted by Millenium Z06
C5 clear isn't that hard, its a urethane based clear not a ceramic based clear Menzerna is very good and more than adequate, its the right pads, operator and patience thats gets rid of swirls.
Most people think this is a two hour process, it takes me 5-6 hours to do my car.
Cutting pad and Menzerna
Polishing pad then Menzerna
Polishing pad #2 then Menzerna
Polishing pad #2 and Admas polish
Polishing pad #3 and Adams sealer
Jewelers Pad and Adams Glaze
Jewelers pad and Adams Americana wax
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Old Nov 24, 2015 | 11:36 AM
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It will take awhile and with the PC you wont get full correction but you will get there with some hard work.
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Old Nov 24, 2015 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Millenium Z06
Most people think this is a two hour process, it takes me 5-6 hours to do my car.



Definitely not a quick job to do it right. I spent an entire evening just on the Denali hood--wash, clay, 105, 205, wax. Turned out really nice.
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Old Nov 24, 2015 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Millenium Z06
C5 clear isn't that hard, its a urethane based clear not a ceramic based clear Menzerna is very good and more than adequate, its the right pads, operator and patience thats gets rid of swirls.
Most people think this is a two hour process, it takes me 5-6 hours to do my car.
I agree.

I have been using various Menzerna Polishes and pads with my Flex 3401 for years on my C5 with great results. I detail mine about twice a year and it takes me about 2 hours per panel by the time I go through all the polishing steps, apply the Zaino coats, etc. Pretty much kills a weekend.

I just received the new Griot's BOSS System today - looking forward to trying it out (with Menzerna).



Last edited by Choreo; Nov 25, 2015 at 08:11 PM.
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Old Nov 25, 2015 | 11:24 AM
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I use same products that you will be using. I start with the 105, I put the polisher on 1 to help spread the product and then use the 5-6 setting to finish. Then follow up with the 205 using the same procedure and then follow up with a sealant. I have no problems with this process.
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Old Nov 25, 2015 | 11:56 AM
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I use a Flex and Menzerna products on my 03 black and makes quite a difference. I push pretty hard and even use 3000 grit on some deep scratches then get on it with the Flex.




Last edited by jdsaengine; Nov 25, 2015 at 11:57 AM.
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Old Nov 25, 2015 | 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Choreo
I agree.

I have been using various Menzerna Polishes and pads with my Flex 3401 for years on my C5 with great results. I detail mine about twice a year and it takes me about 2 hours per panel but the time I go through all the polishing steps, apply the Zaino coats, etc. Pretty much kills a weekend.

I just received the new Griot's BOSS System today - looking forward to trying it out (with Menzerna).


WELL DONE! That's how black is supposed to look. Truly exceptional man!
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Old Nov 26, 2015 | 11:42 AM
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I too have and used the Porter Cable 7424xp and McGuiars 105 and 205 with stellar results. I did notices however that in certain areas that had a lot of swirls, dullness etc, etc that I had to apply a little more pressure then needed to the 7424xp which caused it to slow down. As good as the 7424xp is I think I'm going to invest in the Flex 3401 as i have heard that it has a little more weight to it and is a bit more powerful so it dosen't bog down like the 7424xp.
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Old Nov 26, 2015 | 11:56 AM
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I agree with the comments made. Bought by 04 with swirls and some scratches as noted used the 105/205 and got about 85% out. Agree that you really need to apply some pressure to the PC to get deeper issues resolved. However, have not been able to get out a few scratches out or filled. These are ones that I can not get my fingernail into, yet for some reason not coming out. Have a friend that bought the FLEX and will try to see if we get a better result. There is no easy magic product to get the result that Vette owners expect.

Good luck

Regards,
Jim
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Old Nov 26, 2015 | 03:16 PM
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You don't apply more pressure to correct paint flaws, that's how you burn the paint.
You apply the correct material, polish or cutting compound along with the correct pad and let the buffer/polisher and the compound do the work. you shouldn't be putting more than 5-7 lbs of pressure on the buffer.
If you're having to push it hard enough to slow it down to correct a paint issue, you don't have the right pad or the right compound. You will burn the paint, a more powerful buffer will not slow down and when you lift it up, you'll be rewarded with this.





A powerful buffer in inexperienced hands will be costly

Last edited by Millenium Z06; Nov 26, 2015 at 03:20 PM.
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Old Nov 27, 2015 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Millenium Z06
C5 clear isn't that hard, its a urethane based clear not a ceramic based clear Menzerna is very good and more than adequate, its the right pads, operator and patience thats gets rid of swirls.
Most people think this is a two hour process, it takes me 5-6 hours to do my car.
Cutting pad and Menzerna
Polishing pad then Menzerna
Polishing pad #2 then Menzerna
Polishing pad #2 and Admas polish
Polishing pad #3 and Adams sealer
Jewelers Pad and Adams Glaze
Jewelers pad and Adams Americana wax







Millennium Yellow is known for being soft.
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Old Nov 27, 2015 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Millenium Z06
You don't apply more pressure to correct paint flaws, that's how you burn the paint.
You apply the correct material, polish or cutting compound along with the correct pad and let the buffer/polisher and the compound do the work. you shouldn't be putting more than 5-7 lbs of pressure on the buffer.
If you're having to push it hard enough to slow it down to correct a paint issue, you don't have the right pad or the right compound. You will burn the paint, a more powerful buffer will not slow down and when you lift it up, you'll be rewarded with this.
I agree.

Also, if you are using a Direct Drive unit like a Flex (which I have been using the past few years), it will not slow down like a PC. If you apply enough pressure for very long it will cut right through the paint.

Last edited by Choreo; Nov 27, 2015 at 07:54 PM.
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Old Nov 27, 2015 | 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ssmoke-u
Millennium Yellow is known for being soft.
You know that the clear on top of the yellow is what you're actually polishing right? Its the same clear applied to all C5's. As to the softness of MY, urethane are the same hardness in any color, you use a hardener to enhance urethane's hardness and to help it cure it but there's no such thing as a soft urethane, i used to paint cars.
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Old Nov 28, 2015 | 09:45 AM
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The Corvette will be the same process as your truck; however, it'll be a little tougher because of all the curved body panels. Because of this, your PC will want to stall out if you're holding it at the incorrect angle. It stalls if you are at the wrong angle to protect the paint. Put a mark of some sort on the pad attachment area that you can watch to ensure its spinning at all times. If it's not spinning, then it's stalled out and you aren't achieving correction. It may take awhile, but you'll eventually get the feel for it and then each panel will be a little easier to do. I would recommend watching a few YouTube videos before you begin as they have great info on polishing. Junkman and Larry at Ammo nyc are great at explaining the process.
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Old Nov 28, 2015 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Black 02
The Corvette will be the same process as your truck; however, it'll be a little tougher because of all the curved body panels. Because of this, your PC will want to stall out if you're holding it at the incorrect angle. It stalls if you are at the wrong angle to protect the paint. Put a mark of some sort on the pad attachment area that you can watch to ensure its spinning at all times. If it's not spinning, then it's stalled out and you aren't achieving correction. It may take awhile, but you'll eventually get the feel for it and then each panel will be a little easier to do. I would recommend watching a few YouTube videos before you begin as they have great info on polishing. Junkman and Larry at Ammo nyc are great at explaining the process.
Correct and exactly what I did, big magic marker line from the shaft to the edge of the pad, when it stops spinning, reduce the pressure you're applying on the machine.

Excellent post, thats so automatic for me that I completely forgot mentioning it and that is one of the single best tricks you can do.
I'd also add, learn how to buff off a panel gap instead buffing onto it. IE open the hood and make sure that the buffer pad is rotating OFF the panel and not onto it, thats how you burn the edges.

Last edited by Millenium Z06; Nov 28, 2015 at 02:28 PM.
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