Can anybody help me with this ?
(Pull key wait 10 seconds )

 

Do a quick search and you will find more threads on this topic than you will care to read. Guaranteed with a little reading you will find someone how has dealt with a situation just like yours (there are many different circumstances).

If you don't want to do the research, at least post up all the details and wait for our resident expert 8VETTE7 to reply.

 

Here is the answer you seek.

 

Funny, that's the first place I go for most problems......codes or any other Vette problems.

 

 

True, if you do a search you'll find tons of info.

I've had it happen plenty of times.

 

background: 2003 6 speed. Replaced battery about 3 years ago after buying my car in California. New battery from Autozone lasted a little over a year then I moved to Nevada where it pretty much died soon after due to the extreme heat. Replacement battery had lower rating but was apparently a fit. 75 vs 75s (summer) Duralast. Their replacement lasted less than a year before the weather got brutally cold...within weeks 110+ to morning at 30 degrees or so. So I started getting funky codes like "charge system fault" and "pull key wait 10 sec"

I had the battery tested at Autozone. The guy was having trouble but finally he said the battery and alternator were fine except that the battery was only at 50% charge (it's my daily driver). He didn't want to exchange so I went to two other Autozones who kept saying basically same thing even though they acknowledged their machine kept saying "loose connection" and one guy even said that usually indicates bad battery.

Finally I disconnected the battery and just had them test it that way and right away it said "bad battery". So they gave me the free replacement per the warranty. Coincidentally I guess, the next day I had a different Autozone test that battery and it said bad battery right away... upgraded the battery to their 78s just paid a little extra for the difference.

BUT in the cold mornings when the weather was right around 30 I would still get the "pull key wait..." on the first start but never the rest of the day. Secretly I had a theory that the cold weather was ****ing with the battery since it was designed to withstand the extreme Nevada heat...

But anyways soon after I took the time to use a wire brush and a drill to brush off the contacts that connect to the battery, the three ground wires and the chassis as well as the nuts and the two ground wires behind my the headlights...

it's been a few weeks and I have not seen the pull key message...


on a side note, I have had terrible experience with alternators...I've used ebay to purchase voltage regulators that have cured the charge system fault or no charge situations...last year I bought a high amp alternator from ebay and have not had any problems with that either.

Just because why not, I will also be doing "the big three upgrade" soon.

I hope my experience helps shed some light on your situation...it's been said over and over that a ton of (c5) corvette electrical problems always lead back to a bad battery or ground connections...

Good luck! This forum has helped me sooooo much!

 

Grasshopper, you need to tell us what year and if you have an automatic or manual.

Makes a difference for CL issues in particular. There were changes from every year to the next and some in mid year for many things.

Read this from the Technical Forum here. That is where you should have posted. General is more for bling and non problems.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ky-please.html

If you need to install a CL device then:

I consider the LMC5 to be the best Column Lock problem permanent fix out there. It also does not require you to “undo” any previous CL attempts to resolve this issue. Their eBay ads have a good video that shows the install at the BCM. It does not cover everything in the written instructions. So, read the instructions and also here is some extra info. In some cases, the BCM timing is off just enough to cause some issues. They make several versions and they can swap out/provide one of these if you have any issues. Their customer support is as good as it gets.

Not uncommon for people to "put the column in a pre-lock condition" and not know it and then start with the install. In other words, they started with the column lock “energized’ even if it was not actually locked yet. If not actually locked yet, it will be as soon as you turn the steering wheel after the LMC5 install. It will then remain in the locked condition until you cause the motor to unlock. It will then remain in the unlocked condition since the motor is then unpowered with the circuits disconnected.

Here is one way to prevent that if your column locks and unlocks normally:

If the CL is functioning normally you don't not need the Unlocker, merely turn the ignition ON, pull fuse #23 in the I/P fuse box, turn ignition OFF, turn the steering wheel (left and right) and verify it is unlocked. Next, disconnect the negative battery terminal, re-insert fuse #23 and continue with the install.

Also the 1999 and later C5's have a column lock relay that can be unplugged or else it will be powered and could fail and drain the battery. The LMC5 written guidance provides this info. This relay is above the BCM.

They also have a great install video in their eBay ads you need to watch.

Compliance Parts website: http://complianceparts.com/index.html


Mr. Sam

 

NOT getting the correct alternator is ALSO a big problem for the C5...

 

Do the LMC-5 module install if you have a manual. Problem will be fixed. I tried a fresh battery, trickle charging ... no help but it occurred less often. My car also had had the dealer recall fix done but that fix does not disable the electronics. LMC-5 module bypasses all the electronic/software and will fix the "Wait 10 Seconds". You will probably have to do the brown wire option when you install it, I did.

Just my opinion.

 

I consider the LMC5 to be the best Column Lock problem permanent fix out there. It also does not require you to “undo” any previous CL attempts to resolve this issue. Their eBay ads have a good video that shows the install at the BCM. It does not cover everything in the written instructions. So, read the instructions and also here is some extra info. In some cases, the BCM timing is off just enough to cause some issues. They make several versions and they can swap out/provide one of these if you have any issues. Their customer support is as good as it gets.

Not uncommon for people to "put the column in a pre-lock condition" and not know it and then start with the install. In other words, they started with the column lock “energized’ even if it was not actually locked yet. If not actually locked yet, it will be as soon as you turn the steering wheel after the LMC5 install. It will then remain in the locked condition until you cause the motor to unlock. It will then remain in the unlocked condition since the motor is then unpowered with the circuits disconnected.

Here is one way to prevent that if your column locks and unlocks normally:

If the CL is functioning normally you don't not need the Unlocker, merely turn the ignition ON, pull fuse #23 in the I/P fuse box, turn ignition OFF, turn the steering wheel (left and right) and verify it is unlocked. Next, disconnect the negative battery terminal, re-insert fuse #23 and continue with the install.

Also the 1999 and later C5's have a column lock relay that can be unplugged or else it will be powered and could fail and drain the battery. The LMC5 written guidance provides this info. This relay is above the BCM.

They also have a great install video in their eBay ads you need to watch.

Compliance Parts website: http://complianceparts.com/index.html


Mr. Sam