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I finally got the little bugger out, and managed to split the unit. anyone have any experience with what component is most likely to fail ? no obvious burn parts.
here are some pictures on how I split the unit. oh I tested the motor and it seems to run just fine.
I finally got the little bugger out, and managed to split the unit. anyone have any experience with what component is most likely to fail ? no obvious burn parts.
here are some pictures on how I split the unit. oh I tested the motor and it seems to run just fine.
I hope you know what you are doing. There are a lot of people that do and will repair the unit for $100 to $150.
has traction control light and ABS (code) , and the unit did not exercise, checked wheel sensors all seem to work. I also have active steering code, sorry about that, it was a job to get it out, so I could test motor.
has traction control light and ABS (code) , and the unit did not exercise, checked wheel sensors all seem to work. I also have active steering code, sorry about that, it was a job to get it out, so I could test motor.
Did you pull codes? That would give you a clue to what is going on. Code C1214 is Sol valve relay or coil CKT open. That was my problem. If you did not pull the codes you are flying blind.
There are threads about guys fixing it themselves. Search it.
You should have pulled and posted the codes BEFORE removing the unit. If the reason for the "did not exercise" was code C1243 or BPMV Pump Motor stalled, there are procedures that usually clear this problem short of having to remove the module. Here is one of those:
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Here is a DIY about fixing the '01 and up ABS unit that was posted on the forum a while back. Good luck troubleshooting the unit and in fixing it if you do try and do it yourself.
You should have pulled and posted the codes BEFORE removing the unit. If the reason for the "did not exercise" was code C1243 or BPMV Pump Motor stalled, there are procedures that usually clear this problem short of having to remove the module. Here is one of those:
Reading codes and asking for help on the Forum can be far more helpful before you disassemble parts....
I did but was not in full understanding, I have reinstalled the unit , as I just installed a new radiator, I have a back up vette, so I'm in no big hurry. and I haven't got any updates to this post for some reason,
I have no time again today, but will go threw all the posts ASAP... THANX Jay
I did but was not in full understanding, I have reinstalled the unit , as I just installed a new radiator, I have a back up vette, so I'm in no big hurry. and I haven't got any updates to this post for some reason,
I have no time again today, but will go threw all the posts ASAP... THANX Jay
Reading codes and asking for help on the Forum can be far more helpful before you disassemble parts....[/QUOTE]
I can't help it ! I have fixed a the headlight motor control modules over the years,speaker amps, starters fix $6 alternator $14 window/headlight motors on my 95 for free as I had parts on hand, this was just a tad more complex, the 2 transistors and 2 rectifiers tested good. so I put it back in. my code reader is having brain farts (easyscan 5000) and I have became reliant on it over the years, as it's the only one I have to read ODB1/ODB2. i see now you can go threw the codes on the dash in a section by section and slowly read codes. I will try this next.
You should know a little about me...If I can't fix it..I'll break it try'n. I tell my customers that. you just need to know what my abilities are, before ya pass judgment, I'm a mechanic first ! then I'm a technician, but only as a last resort ! LOL
I want to thank everybody for impute (constructive) just replaced the radiator on this 02 sport conv with the dreaded quick fit, for $120 NEW. SO....
two most common fail parts in my limited experience tested ok, now I'm not a Rocket Surgeon, but i do have some experience fixing speed controls for electric motors 230 AC in/out 110v dc 3 phase,TV's,computers and the such. I have a pool pump electric motor repair shop, and have worked at some big auto AC/general repair shops, junk yards in the past, and will keep everybody up to date with my findings.
It takes just a couple minutes to pull the codes on the dash. Before you go any further you should do it. The codes will tell you a lot.
will do.. I'm thinking of cutting a hole in my driveway 3' wide and 15' long with stairs on one OR both ends. I was lucky and the shop i worked at 28 yrs ago let me bring it on the pit to look at..
OH no, now I cant remember if I checked the joints, and this makes sense, they used cheap solder or not enough. dang it man.. well I still have no coolant in it so, i'll pull it back out and inspect it closer ! thanks man. I blame it on my 50yr old eyes. lol
OR fix the module.. and codes there will no be.
the 12 or so codes this module cascades, ARE ALL GONE.
It did cost me though, a whopping 50 cents in materials.
I had already checked the wheel sensors and the motor.
PULL THE CODES YOU MUST correction to the pictures caption..
PULL THE CODES YOU MUST ! correction to the picture caption. OR eliminate a issue, poof all codes GONE, and this is the sport model 2002. check out this post. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...r-fleabay.html
Last edited by motorwiz; Jan 1, 2016 at 02:24 PM.
Reason: update