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I installed HID bulbs and ballasts. I added switch color turn signals and rear eagle eye tail lights. The turn signals would hyper flash until I installed a hyper flash unit into the existing flasher. Solved that problem.
Issue is headlights will come up when they feel like it. Sometimes restarting car will pop them up.
Do I need to add any more resistors or something for all to work. I also have HID fog lights sitting here to install if I can work out all the issues.
Help.
The fogs will work out fine, but the combo of the others, if not of high quality will cause the problems you are having. I know this because I did the same thing. The ballasts cause problems for the pop up motors. 1 ballast went bad, one bulb was bad, and operation sporadic. Got mine from EBay, took out everything and went with the best bulbs I could find that didn't require all the extras.
You will need resistors for the headlight too (just like for signal lights) You can try flashing high beams to activate headlight doors, heard that can work. I just bought some LED switchbacks for front signal lights and some for brake and rear signal lights they came with some 6 ohm resistors to install inline. Curious how they will workout.
You will need resistors for the headlight too (just like for signal lights) You can try flashing high beams to activate headlight doors, heard that can work. I just bought some LED switchbacks for front signal lights and some for brake and rear signal lights they came with some 6 ohm resistors to install inline. Curious how they will workout.
They should work out fine. The problem is with the headlite doors. Flashing does work, but it gets old and marginally dangerous pretty fast. Flashing your lights becomes an adventure. I wouldn't do HID headlites unless it was a full kit like Radioflyer sells. There are some improved 9005 & 9006 bulbs out there. Not cheap for the type, but much better than stock and they avoid schizophrenic pop ups.
The problem you've having with the headlights is caused by the low draw of most HID ballasts. The headlight control module is looking for a certain current draw (4.3a per side from 9006 halogen) Anything much below a 4 amp draw will not trigger the headlight door to open or close. Most HID ballasts have enough of a startup current to trigger the headlight to rise, but the stable (lower) current is not enough to trigger them to lower when turned off.
The problem you've having with the headlights is caused by the low draw of most HID ballasts. The headlight control module is looking for a certain current draw (4.3a per side from 9006 halogen) Anything much below a 4 amp draw will not trigger the headlight door to open or close. Most HID ballasts have enough of a startup current to trigger the headlight to rise, but the stable (lower) current is not enough to trigger them to lower when turned off.
I recently received a set of your ACA Bi Zenon headlights but have not installed them yet. Do they ever have issues with the opening and closing? I assume no due to the quality of all your products but thought I would ask?
I recently received a set of your ACA Bi Zenon headlights but have not installed them yet. Do they ever have issues with the opening and closing? I assume no due to the quality of all your products but thought I would ask?
Not a problem with our kits. Our ballasts have a stable draw of 4.2A.