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Safe to Use Superglue?

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Old Mar 13, 2016 | 12:03 PM
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Default Safe to Use Superglue?

Hey guys,

My headlight cover broke in the back where it connects to the portion that is screwed into place. Here's a picture to help clarify where I'm talking about;



Is it ok to use superglue here to fix that? A friend of mine explained that he heard sometimes some super glues can melt the plastic that this part is made out of.

If super glue is not the appropriate way to fix this, what should I do? Buy a whole new headlight cover? (I'm hesitant to do that, there was an issue with the bowling green paints, they swapped the colors between 2000 and 2001 and kept the same paint code, so if I buy one that's sold as bowling green it may not match my paint...)

Thanks guys!
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Old Mar 13, 2016 | 12:16 PM
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I don't know about superglue for such a thick part that is in a moving mechanism. Might want to look into stronger epoxy products like a jb weld clear weld quick setting epoxy. It dries strong and clear in about 5 mins.
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Old Mar 13, 2016 | 12:20 PM
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I agree withe above post. Home Depot or the like have several 2 part epoxies. They make one for plastic that likely will be the best bet for your repair.
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Old Mar 13, 2016 | 12:23 PM
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By itself the glue may not hold due to the small surface but if you made a small angle piece out of sheet metal then glued that in to hold it together after preparing the surfaces it will probably hold.

Last edited by StrangelovesM6Vert; Mar 13, 2016 at 12:24 PM.
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Old Mar 13, 2016 | 04:25 PM
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If you go to Home Depot, look for a product that is 2 parts. The "Primer part is a small pen that you rub on the areas to be joined. Then you use part 2, which is in a small bottle with a brush applicator. It works when a lot of stuff doesnt, and the best part imho is NO MESS ! !
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Old Mar 13, 2016 | 07:28 PM
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The longer the setting time on the epoxy the stronger the bond.

Superglue, cyano will not melt that plastic, only foam. There is also a cyano which is foam safe but not applicable here.

Bill
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Old Mar 13, 2016 | 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by imgn tht
I don't know about superglue for such a thick part that is in a moving mechanism. Might want to look into stronger epoxy products like a jb weld clear weld quick setting epoxy. It dries strong and clear in about 5 mins.
Originally Posted by Ron71
I agree withe above post. Home Depot or the like have several 2 part epoxies. They make one for plastic that likely will be the best bet for your repair.
Originally Posted by StrangelovesM6Vert
By itself the glue may not hold due to the small surface but if you made a small angle piece out of sheet metal then glued that in to hold it together after preparing the surfaces it will probably hold.
Originally Posted by BSenzina
If you go to Home Depot, look for a product that is 2 parts. The "Primer part is a small pen that you rub on the areas to be joined. Then you use part 2, which is in a small bottle with a brush applicator. It works when a lot of stuff doesnt, and the best part imho is NO MESS ! !
Originally Posted by williame3590
The longer the setting time on the epoxy the stronger the bond.

Superglue, cyano will not melt that plastic, only foam. There is also a cyano which is foam safe but not applicable here.

Bill
Cool, thanks guys! I'll drop into home depot and look for an epoxy then probably
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Old Mar 14, 2016 | 12:01 AM
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Body parts, including headlight covers do not come pre-painted.

frank
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Old Mar 14, 2016 | 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by JETZ
Body parts, including headlight covers do not come pre-painted.

frank
Some do, if being sold off a used or salvaged vehicle for example. And the fact that most new pieces will come unpainted further justifies circumventing the purchase of a new cover, as I'm not seeing any new unpainted covers going for less than $120, and then I have to pay to get it painted, and even getting it painted there's a chance it will be the wrong paint because of the mix up with the paint codes.

Originally Posted by 03bluemule
I used jb weld on mine . It's been a year since then and still good to go .
Sweet, I'll look for that, thanks!
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Old Mar 14, 2016 | 07:35 PM
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...you did say 'new'!

Green, is not a color very often seen on a vette. There is one on the forum, his handle escapes me now (custom interior).
Edit: 'c5vetteguy'

Personally I've never seen one in the flesh.

Even if you were lucky enough to find one with the correct paint code, it might still not match perfectly due to paint fade.

Good luck with your search.

frank



Originally Posted by StealthStrike42
Some do, if being sold off a used or salvaged vehicle for example. And the fact that most new pieces will come unpainted further justifies circumventing the purchase of a new cover, as I'm not seeing any new unpainted covers going for less than $120, and then I have to pay to get it painted, and even getting it painted there's a chance it will be the wrong paint because of the mix up with the paint codes.



Sweet, I'll look for that, thanks!

Last edited by JETZ; Mar 14, 2016 at 07:50 PM.
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by JETZ
...you did say 'new'!

Green, is not a color very often seen on a vette. There is one on the forum, his handle escapes me now (custom interior).
Edit: 'c5vetteguy'

Personally I've never seen one in the flesh.

Even if you were lucky enough to find one with the correct paint code, it might still not match perfectly due to paint fade.

Good luck with your search.

frank
Oh good point, I brushed over that lol Personally, when I use the word new, I mean new for me, not necessarily a brand new part, but apparently that's not normal and I shouldn't expect other people to treat it the same way hahaha

Yeah that's one reason I absolutely love having a green vette, the rarity is insane. So there are two of us on the forum now c5vetteguy and I have had an interaction before in another thread, he's got a fairway green vette while I've got the other green C5's came in, Dark Bowling Green Metallic. C4's came in a polo green, saw one recently at my local walmart and parked two spots away from him! There was one other DBGM C5 in my area but he showed up to a car show and tried to show off and ran the car right into a wall. I only saw the video of it, wasn't there to see it in person.

Yeah, paint fade, good point, another reason to make the home depot trip and get some epoxy, or what ever JB weld is it sounds like lol
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 11:05 AM
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Another point regarding CA glues: if you use them on anything you need to remain clear, beware that as they cure they offgas, and the fumes can create cloudy areas.
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 05:22 PM
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Newer lids of the later model C5's have been slightly redesigned with small, right angle gusting on that tab. My 2002 has them. A '99 lid I've repaired does not.

Try to ensure the tab is relocated at the same angle it was when unbroken. If glued at a different angle this could prevent it from fitting at all (unlikely) or (more likely) that if reattached at too wide/open of an angle then when tightening it you could crack the repair or even re-break it if reattached without cloth backing or re-enforcement of any kind.

Two part epoxy and some fiberglass, carbon fiber cloth, old t-shirt, drip coffee filter, etc... laid inside the angle for strength did just fine for the lid I purchased cracked (it was inexpensive cracked and I needed it for headlight fitment projects) and then repaired. Re-drill the mount holes and gtg.

If inclined, fab up the right angle metal re-enforcing suggested earlier in this thread and use that as an angle guide by fitting it to the good side for shape, then using it with spring or c-clamps to hold the epoxy and cloth in the right aspect until dry.
If more inclined use a heat gun on low or hair dryer to cure the epoxy while under clamps for an even more durable repair. With a little bit of car wax applied to the metal it will separate from the repair easily when unclamped...

...or just JB Weld it.

GL

Last edited by mtndv8; Mar 17, 2016 at 05:24 PM.
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Old Apr 23, 2016 | 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by mtndv8
...or just JB Weld it.

GL
Currently letting the JB weld set and cure Took me long enough to get around to it lol



Last edited by StealthStrike42; Apr 23, 2016 at 09:24 PM.
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Old Apr 23, 2016 | 10:37 PM
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Here is a trick I use to make a bond bullet proof

Use a two part epoxy ( the trick ).. go to a auto store or automotive paint store and get a piece of fiber glass mesh.. cut some fibers from it then mix the two part epoxy in a small cup, add the fiberglass fibers, to make a thick past and fill in the area.. allow it to cure, then sand and paint and it will be stronger than the original sub straight.
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Old Apr 24, 2016 | 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Evil-Twin
Here is a trick I use to make a bond bullet proof

Use a two part epoxy ( the trick ).. go to a auto store or automotive paint store and get a piece of fiber glass mesh.. cut some fibers from it then mix the two part epoxy in a small cup, add the fiberglass fibers, to make a thick past and fill in the area.. allow it to cure, then sand and paint and it will be stronger than the original sub straight.
I will have to try this if this breaks! It's already been drying for a few hours.
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Old Apr 24, 2016 | 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by StealthStrike42
I will have to try this if this breaks! It's already been drying for a few hours.
The fibers reinforce the bond from every angle... This is the same principle used in making your glass filled nylon intake manifold... its made with glass filled fibers for strength. it also took 25 lbs. out of the car.
the fiberglass fibers acts like re-bar in a construction cement pour.

Just use a scissor and chop up the fibers into small pile, making the fibers about 1/2 in long. they will bend and inter lock, and while the epoxy is fluid, you can mold the past into any shape, or fill any opening.
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