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Harmonic balancer options

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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 04:36 AM
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Default Harmonic balancer options

I just had to tear my whole front end apart I actually paid someone to do the cam and heads install on my vette but here I am 6-7000 miles later and the harmonic balancer came off. So anyways I've got it all tore down but I can't find any definitive opinion on whether or not I should upgrade to the arp bolt or just put another stock balancer on? Also I've been told to red loctite the threads and the back of the bolt from several people and on another note what is this tool in suppose to use to reinstall the dampener properly. Thanks for any and all help
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 05:05 AM
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yea its more then just unscrewing and putting in a new one

Dont go with the stock one because you can end up having it fail again anytime

Go with a powerbond balancer with an ARP bolt

Then you will need a harmonic balancer innstallation tool, or you can use the bolt from an LS9 , which is much cheaper , both do the same thing
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 09:05 AM
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I went with a Dorman unit. My mechanic uses that brand and swears by them having installed them on several Vettes including a C6 that's tracked. Powerbond is probably a better make, but cost a little more.
I couldn't find anyone who thought the GM, OEM balancer was a good replacement. Actually almost everyone advised against it.
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 09:59 AM
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^ My Dorman brand LS1 balancer blew apart at the spokes after 5000 miles of use. I actually ran over the hub on the road after it fell out the bottom of the car. It was installed and torqued properly using an ARP bolt.

Stick with quality brands, please!
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 10:02 AM
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Here's a link to the tool
http://www.coloradospeed.com/tools-equipment-c-3654/hawk-ls-series-harmonic-balancer-installation-tool-gm-ls1-ls6-ls2-ls3-p-10976.html
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Old Mar 15, 2016 | 10:20 AM
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 02:37 AM
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From all the positive reviews in going to go with the slp/power bond it looks like it come with a bolt though my question is should I trust that bolt or say **** it and get the arp and also do they make a normal size balancer. I didn't really wanna downsize or do you all with the downsized pulley do you notice any issues ?
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 06:40 AM
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I went with the Powerbond balancer and the ARP bolt. 60,000+ miles and no problems on my daily driver. Still runs true.
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 09:41 AM
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The bolt provided with the balancer is more than adequate. The ARP bolt is designed to be reused and it's good for those that race and tear engines apart frequenly for inspection or repair. It's not the bolt that fails on these engines, it's the balancer. With either bolt, it's important to do the installation correctly, otherwise neither will last long.
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 10:14 AM
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Yes I spent the extra cash and ordered the tool, and arp bolt. Believe me I don't wanna have to yank it all apart again lol
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by kmaroman
From all the positive reviews in going to go with the slp/power bond it looks like it come with a bolt though my question is should I trust that bolt or say **** it and get the arp and also do they make a normal size balancer. I didn't really wanna downsize or do you all with the downsized pulley do you notice any issues ?
Yes, they do. It's the same high quality but not underdrive. Stock diameter.

Part # PB1117SS. It's one of their "race" series, but this part number is stock diameter.

BTW, all Powerbond balancers are now marketed and sold through Dayco Corporation. The same company that makes belts/hoses, etc. AAMOF, I'm fairly certain the SLP balancer is actually a Powerbond, since SLP does not manufacture balancers.

HTH
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 1Willy1
Dont go with the stock one because you can end up having it fail again anytime

Go with a powerbond balancer with an ARP bolt
with what he said..........
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 01:27 PM
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Since the OP said his balancer "fell off", I'd be sure to accurately measure the OD of the crank's snout, just to make sure it hasn't been damaged.
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 03:59 AM
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Guys I wound up with the 25% slp but I still have time to reorder, slp doesn't offer a normal size that I could find. Now this is a car I don't drive all the time but like to get it out on nice days and take some long drives. Will this hurt my drive ability?
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 08:06 AM
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Spinning your power steering and alternator units more quickly than stock can lead to premature failure (especially on racetrack). Spinning them more slowly can lead to increased load on electrical system and increased steering effort during parking manuvers.
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 09:09 AM
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Amazon.com: Powerbond Balancers PB1117-SS LS1 7.5" SFI Approved Steel Harmonic Balancer for Small Block Chevy: Automotive Amazon.com: Powerbond Balancers PB1117-SS LS1 7.5" SFI Approved Steel Harmonic Balancer for Small Block Chevy: Automotive

Note: the picture that Amazon uses on this listing is NOT what the PB1117SS looks like rather, it is a generic, "file photo" type of picture of a standard PB balancer. I only included the link as this is a good price.

Here's a picture of an actual PB1117SS balancer:

http://www.carshopinc.com/product_th...g&w=1000&h=750


The correct part number is what's important.

HTH
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 09:20 AM
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It won't hurt anything but it won't charge the battery as effectively. If you don't drive often, you are most likely using a battery tender and that's a non issue. Under drive pulleys are designed for those trying to squeeze every little bit of power out of the engine - mostly racers. You won't notice much difference otherwise. I also doubt it will increase longevity for any of the items listed above.
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by kmaroman
Guys I wound up with the 25% slp but I still have time to reorder, slp doesn't offer a normal size that I could find. Now this is a car I don't drive all the time but like to get it out on nice days and take some long drives. Will this hurt my drive ability?
I have the SLP underdrive on mine for 5+ years now very solid no issues at all. Havent noticed any difference with the underdrive maybe the idle dropped by 100 rpms at idle had a mail order tune to bump it up so I cant remember. The only negative for me was the weight was a bit heavy I wanted a lightweight aluminum pulley to free up some HP. But with all the failures of the OEM maybe the extra strength of the steel was necessary.
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