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ac stuck on defrost

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Old Apr 11, 2016 | 05:10 PM
  #1  
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St.. Jude Donor '17-'18
Default ac stuck on defrost

I've been looking around through a few threads and most point to the vacuum line going from the intake manifold, my question is what to use to extend or replace it? I haven't taken the manifold of yet but wanted to get parts ahead of time and was wondering if all the hoses under the battery are the same size? Also would vacuum cause the ac to blow warmer air out of the drivers side?

Thanks
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Old Apr 11, 2016 | 06:15 PM
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sounds like you may have two issues;
1. vacuum failure
2. electric actuators on blend doors

For the blend door actuators pull the HVAC codes. These will be one or more of the following:

B0361 Left Actuator Feedback Short to GND
B0363 Left Actuator Feedback Open
B0365 Right Actuator Feedback Short to GND
B0367 Right Actuator Feedback Open

As to the vacuum lines, any vacuum line will work so long as it can be slipped over the original hard line.

Since you have an 01, if there is also a P0410 PCM code present you definitely have a vacuum issue. In the 01+ cars there is a vacuum actuated valve for the AIR pump. If no vacuum is present the valve does not open and you get the P0410 code.

You can check for vacuum in the passenger foot well where the vacuum manifold is behind the glove box. If I remember correctly the purple line is the input to the manifold. Disconnect this and connect a vacuum gauge to the black line that connects to the purple one. If there is vacuum here the issue is either the manifold or the actuators. If no vacuum is present the you need to go into the components behind the passenger fender. The main thing to look for is broken or kinked vacuum lines.

Gary
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Old Apr 11, 2016 | 06:24 PM
  #3  
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001pewter
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St.. Jude Donor '17-'18
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Originally Posted by SilverC54me
sounds like you may have two issues;
1. vacuum failure
2. electric actuators on blend doors

For the blend door actuators pull the HVAC codes. These will be one or more of the following:

B0361 Left Actuator Feedback Short to GND
B0363 Left Actuator Feedback Open
B0365 Right Actuator Feedback Short to GND
B0367 Right Actuator Feedback Open

As to the vacuum lines, any vacuum line will work so long as it can be slipped over the original hard line.

Since you have an 01, if there is also a P0410 PCM code present you definitely have a vacuum issue. In the 01+ cars there is a vacuum actuated valve for the AIR pump. If no vacuum is present the valve does not open and you get the P0410 code.

You can check for vacuum in the passenger foot well where the vacuum manifold is behind the glove box. If I remember correctly the purple line is the input to the manifold. Disconnect this and connect a vacuum gauge to the black line that connects to the purple one. If there is vacuum here the issue is either the manifold or the actuators. If no vacuum is present the you need to go into the components behind the passenger fender. The main thing to look for is broken or kinked vacuum lines.

Gary
I don't have any hvac codes but do have the 0410, I thought that was just for the air pump and haven't really been to concerned with it. So I guess I need to figure out why I'm getting the 0410 and go from there. Thanks for the help
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Old Apr 11, 2016 | 09:06 PM
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SilverC54me
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Originally Posted by 001pewter
I don't have any hvac codes but do have the 0410, I thought that was just for the air pump and haven't really been to concerned with it. So I guess I need to figure out why I'm getting the 0410 and go from there. Thanks for the help
The two issues may still be unrelated. I had the P0410 on my car and it was caused by a bad AIR pump relay. Swapped it with the horn relay and all is good.

Helped a friend with similar issue which was in this case all of the vacuum lines being eaten through down by the battery. A previous battery had leaked and ate through the tubing, ate the paint off the frame ect.

Cut the elbow off the tubing behind the intake with about 2-3" of the hard line intact. Slipped a length of vacuum line on to this with a bit of glue to seal it and ran it down to the vacuum canister away from all the hot parts as best as possible. Did a similar thing at the canister to connect the line to the fittings.

The HVAC codes listed would only apply if one or both of the actuators have consistent issues. First get the vacuum issue corrected so the diverter can direct the air to all vents correctly.

Gary

Last edited by SilverC54me; Apr 11, 2016 at 09:09 PM.
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Old Apr 11, 2016 | 09:17 PM
  #5  
001pewter's Avatar
001pewter
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Joined: May 2015
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From: Louisiana
St.. Jude Donor '17-'18
Default

Originally Posted by SilverC54me
The two issues may still be unrelated. I had the P0410 on my car and it was caused by a bad AIR pump relay. Swapped it with the horn relay and all is good.

Helped a friend with similar issue which was in this case all of the vacuum lines being eaten through down by the battery. A previous battery had leaked and ate through the tubing, ate the paint off the frame ect.

Cut the elbow off the tubing behind the intake with about 2-3" of the hard line intact. Slipped a length of vacuum line on to this with a bit of glue to seal it and ran it down to the vacuum canister away from all the hot parts as best as possible. Did a similar thing at the canister to connect the line to the fittings.

The HVAC codes listed would only apply if one or both of the actuators have consistent issues. First get the vacuum issue corrected so the diverter can direct the air to all vents correctly.

Gary
I'll keep all this in mind, gonna check it out in the next couple day. Getting kinda annoyed seeing the cluster lit up like a Christmas tree. Still gotta check into the ebcm also. Thanks for the help.
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