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Driver Side Doesn't Unlock from Remote / Tire Question

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Old Apr 21, 2016 | 11:12 AM
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Default Driver Side Doesn't Unlock from Remote / Tire Question

Hey guys,


Two questions;

1. My C5 driver side door rarely will unlock when I use the unlock key on my remote. The passenger side always works with the second click of the unlock button, but I mostly have to use my key to unlock my driver side door. It always does that no matter how many times I use my DIC to re-learn the key, and I've already put brand new batteries in the remote and tried re-learning it right after that. Nothing is fixing it. It does occasionally work though.

If it makes a difference, when I click the unlock button, I do hear something making a clicking sort of noise coming from the driver side door as if there is something moving that is trying to unlock the door, but it might just be missing whatever it's supposed to hit / latch to perform the unlocking of the door.

Also, the lock button literally always works. Always only have to press that once.

Any idea what could be causing this problem and about how much it would be to have a shop fix it? (The guy I go to has an hourly labor rate of $75 per hour with a minimum charge of half an hour's worth of labor per job.)

2. My car currently has some fairly expensive tires on it (Michelin Pilot Sport AS3's, running around $280 per tire), and I was hoping to down grade just a tad to some continentals for $220 a tire, but I don't want to do all four at the same time because right now, only my back tires are bad. Front tires look brand new according to Discount tire. So my question is, is it safe to have continentals on the back with their tread pattern being different from the Michelin's that I would keep up front until they are bad?

Thank you guys!

Last edited by StealthStrike42; Apr 21, 2016 at 11:15 AM. Reason: Adding information about problem
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Old Apr 21, 2016 | 12:15 PM
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I'll comment on 2; I wouldn't. The PO of my Z put brand new F1's on the rear to sell. The front had to be replaced so I pondered only 2 choices:
-sell the rears and buy 4 reasonably priced tires
-buy the 2 F1's for the front.
I did the latter, I personally wouldn't mix front to back to save $120
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Old Apr 21, 2016 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by grantv
I'll comment on 2; I wouldn't. The PO of my Z put brand new F1's on the rear to sell. The front had to be replaced so I pondered only 2 choices:
-sell the rears and buy 4 reasonably priced tires
-buy the 2 F1's for the front.
I did the latter, I personally wouldn't mix front to back to save $120

Thanks for your input! I don't know why, but I didn't even consider selling the fronts. That's something I could do to save money. I'm not a fan of selling huge items like tires and possibly having to ship them though, so I think I'll probably stick with just getting Michelin's on the back this time around. If the guys at Discount Tire are right and the fronts are like new basically, then the rear and front should end up wearing out about the same time this time since I don't do burnouts, and then the next time around I can replace all four with some cheaper tires.
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Old Apr 21, 2016 | 12:41 PM
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Exactly my point and what I'm doing.
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Old Apr 21, 2016 | 08:51 PM
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My drivers door did the same thing. I wasn't sure what the probem was so I bought a used latch off eBay to try. That fixed it so it's been on there for years.
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Old Apr 22, 2016 | 10:51 AM
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On the door lock issue---please pull your dash DIC codes for us.

My guess is the LDCM (left door control module) may be the issue. Seems it works from the door switch but not from the serial bus.


Mr. Sam
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Old Apr 22, 2016 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Rexde1
My drivers door did the same thing. I wasn't sure what the probem was so I bought a used latch off eBay to try. That fixed it so it's been on there for years.
A used door latch? So just search "C5 door latch" to find that on ebay? Thanks!

EDIT; You mean like this?

Originally Posted by dadaroo
On the door lock issue---please pull your dash DIC codes for us.

My guess is the LDCM (left door control module) may be the issue. Seems it works from the door switch but not from the serial bus.


Mr. Sam
If by dash DIC codes you mean holding options and pressing the top button four times for like the check engine codes, the only codes I have are for my TPMS sensors being out.

Last edited by StealthStrike42; Apr 22, 2016 at 02:07 PM. Reason: Adding link to ensure I am looking at the proper item to purchase; #2 edit for grammar
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Old Apr 22, 2016 | 05:46 PM
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The latch was easy to install, a couple of screws and rods once the door panel is off. Most advice I got suggested it was the module or the wires in the door.
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Old Apr 23, 2016 | 07:19 AM
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OK, I reread your Post #1 and I think I misunderstood what you said.

What happens when you try and use the UNLOCK button on the door switch?


Mr. Sam
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Old Apr 23, 2016 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by dadaroo
On the door lock issue---please pull your dash DIC codes for us.

My guess is the LDCM (left door control module) may be the issue. Seems it works from the door switch but not from the serial bus.
I've seen this issue once—I'll file this advice away. Thank you.

Last edited by j3studio; Apr 23, 2016 at 12:28 PM.
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Old Apr 23, 2016 | 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Rexde1
The latch was easy to install, a couple of screws and rods once the door panel is off. Most advice I got suggested it was the module or the wires in the door.
Was the link I sent you an example of the part you're talking about? Thanks for your help!

Originally Posted by dadaroo
OK, I reread your Post #1 and I think I misunderstood what you said.

What happens when you try and use the UNLOCK button on the door switch?


Mr. Sam
So using the unlock button on the door itself I actually just tested and it does the same thing as using the key FOB / remote. You hear a clicking like something is moving but it won't unlock. Again, passenger door works 100% of the time, driver side, I couldn't get it to work after 7 or 8 attempts.
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Old Apr 23, 2016 | 09:56 PM
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I had a similar door lock problem. Turned out to be a relay in the door control module. Apparently a common problem. Going from memory, I think Vette Essentials has a writeup on replacing the relays. Otherwise, do a search under the Tech section. The relays are really cheap.... I think less than ten bucks for all four (a lock relay and a unlock relay in each door module).

You need to take off both door panels (six bucks worth of plastic tools from Harbor Freight) remove the control modules, Open them up and ID the relays, and un- solder them from the board, then solder back in the new relays. Not really too difficult if you have the skill. I had an avionics technician at my workplace do it for me (for a $50 buck donation to their shop party fund). Way cheaper than buying new modules.

Last edited by av8or; Apr 23, 2016 at 09:57 PM.
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Old Apr 24, 2016 | 12:53 AM
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Originally Posted by av8or
I had a similar door lock problem. Turned out to be a relay in the door control module. Apparently a common problem. Going from memory, I think Vette Essentials has a writeup on replacing the relays. Otherwise, do a search under the Tech section. The relays are really cheap.... I think less than ten bucks for all four (a lock relay and a unlock relay in each door module).

You need to take off both door panels (six bucks worth of plastic tools from Harbor Freight) remove the control modules, Open them up and ID the relays, and un- solder them from the board, then solder back in the new relays. Not really too difficult if you have the skill. I had an avionics technician at my workplace do it for me (for a $50 buck donation to their shop party fund). Way cheaper than buying new modules.
Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Relays on the Drivers Door Control module are what are causing your problem. Here is a thread about this problem you can read through if you want to repair the module yourself:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ck-issues.html

Post #10 identifies the various relays and what they control.

If you are looking for an easy way out look up (GOOGLE)

autoclockrepair.com

Last time I checked they had an exchange program where you send your DCM to them and for about $60 they send you a DCM that has had all the necessary repairs made. Many forum members have used them when they didn't want to take on the repair themselves. They also do the DIM HVAC repairs as I recall...

I have heard there may be similar services available on Ebay but I have never checked that out.
I'm definitely not doing anything that has any soldering involved. I appreciate you guys confirming what the issue is, but I've no skill in soldering nor any desire to acquire said skill. So my options are an exchange program or to buy entirely new modules right?

EDIT; This appears to be what you were talking about; http://autoclockrepair.com/c5_corvette_electronics

Their description says that it's the module if it will not "lock OR unlock," but my door locks, it just doesn't unlock. So maybe it's not the module?

Last edited by StealthStrike42; Apr 24, 2016 at 12:59 AM.
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Old Apr 24, 2016 | 07:16 AM
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I agree your problem definitely appears to be the relay in the LDCM.

You can get a good used from Marc at VetteNuts.net


Mr. Sam
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Old Apr 24, 2016 | 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Two possible failures could cause the door to NOT unlock:

1) Lock Motor Failure

2) Unlock relay on the DCM failure.

Since your door LOCKS, the lock motor is KNOWN GOOD.

The two bottom relays on the DCM are the lock and unlock relays. Their job is to reverse the polarity of the 12V DC that is applied to the lock motor. Reversing polarity to the lock motor causes the same motor to either lock or unlock. Since your door will NOT UNLOCK the unlock relay on the drivers DCM has failed. Relay failures on the DCM are VERY common.
Originally Posted by dadaroo
I agree your problem definitely appears to be the relay in the LDCM.

You can get a good used from Marc at VetteNuts.net


Mr. Sam
Great, thank you guys!

So if I do the exchange program, can I still lock and unlock my door through use of the key / physical latch that's located by the handle without the LDCM installed while I wait for the new part to arrive? This is my daily so I'd really like to be able to continue driving it while waiting on the new part. However, if I can't lock or unlock the door without that part installed, I could just borrow my Dad's Porsche for a few days... That's not really anything to complain about lol
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Old Apr 24, 2016 | 11:16 AM
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Your key will work fine while the LDCM is out. You will not be able to operate anything from the door switches though. Do you need door panel removal info?


Mr. Sam
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Old Apr 24, 2016 | 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by dadaroo
Your key will work fine while the LDCM is out. You will not be able to operate anything from the door switches though. Do you need door panel removal info?


Mr. Sam
It appears I have some right here;

http://www.vetteessentials.com/instr...or_handle.html

But what about removing the module? Which piece is that and how does it come out?

EDIT: This the piece? If so, what should I do to get it out?


Last edited by StealthStrike42; Apr 24, 2016 at 11:29 AM.
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To Driver Side Doesn't Unlock from Remote / Tire Question

Old Apr 24, 2016 | 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 8VETTE7
Watch the first part of the video at this link in conjunction with the panel removal info you have to see what the DCM is and how it is removed:


https://youtu.be/o2JlGRSkwYM
Boss! Thank you!
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Old Apr 24, 2016 | 03:30 PM
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Wow, that was quite a lot easier than I thought it would be. Took maybe 20 minutes to get the module out, panel back on, wash my hands and put away the few tools I had out.

All I have to do now is drop $50 to that guy through paypal and grab some shipping supplies tonight, then send it off first thing tomorrow morning.
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 06:12 AM
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It is the black box in the left side of the circle.


Mr. Sam
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