Driver Side Doesn't Unlock from Remote / Tire Question
Two questions;
1. My C5 driver side door rarely will unlock when I use the unlock key on my remote. The passenger side always works with the second click of the unlock button, but I mostly have to use my key to unlock my driver side door. It always does that no matter how many times I use my DIC to re-learn the key, and I've already put brand new batteries in the remote and tried re-learning it right after that. Nothing is fixing it. It does occasionally work though.
If it makes a difference, when I click the unlock button, I do hear something making a clicking sort of noise coming from the driver side door as if there is something moving that is trying to unlock the door, but it might just be missing whatever it's supposed to hit / latch to perform the unlocking of the door.
Also, the lock button literally always works. Always only have to press that once.
Any idea what could be causing this problem and about how much it would be to have a shop fix it? (The guy I go to has an hourly labor rate of $75 per hour with a minimum charge of half an hour's worth of labor per job.)
2. My car currently has some fairly expensive tires on it (Michelin Pilot Sport AS3's, running around $280 per tire), and I was hoping to down grade just a tad to some continentals for $220 a tire, but I don't want to do all four at the same time because right now, only my back tires are bad. Front tires look brand new according to Discount tire. So my question is, is it safe to have continentals on the back with their tread pattern being different from the Michelin's that I would keep up front until they are bad?
Thank you guys!
Last edited by StealthStrike42; Apr 21, 2016 at 11:15 AM. Reason: Adding information about problem
-sell the rears and buy 4 reasonably priced tires
-buy the 2 F1's for the front.
I did the latter, I personally wouldn't mix front to back to save $120
-sell the rears and buy 4 reasonably priced tires
-buy the 2 F1's for the front.
I did the latter, I personally wouldn't mix front to back to save $120
Thanks for your input! I don't know why, but I didn't even consider selling the fronts. That's something I could do to save money. I'm not a fan of selling huge items like tires and possibly having to ship them though, so I think I'll probably stick with just getting Michelin's on the back this time around. If the guys at Discount Tire are right and the fronts are like new basically, then the rear and front should end up wearing out about the same time this time since I don't do burnouts, and then the next time around I can replace all four with some cheaper tires.
My guess is the LDCM (left door control module) may be the issue. Seems it works from the door switch but not from the serial bus.
Mr. Sam
EDIT; You mean like this?
If by dash DIC codes you mean holding options and pressing the top button four times for like the check engine codes, the only codes I have are for my TPMS sensors being out.
Last edited by StealthStrike42; Apr 22, 2016 at 02:07 PM. Reason: Adding link to ensure I am looking at the proper item to purchase; #2 edit for grammar
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Last edited by j3studio; Apr 23, 2016 at 12:28 PM.
So using the unlock button on the door itself I actually just tested and it does the same thing as using the key FOB / remote. You hear a clicking like something is moving but it won't unlock. Again, passenger door works 100% of the time, driver side, I couldn't get it to work after 7 or 8 attempts.
You need to take off both door panels (six bucks worth of plastic tools from Harbor Freight) remove the control modules, Open them up and ID the relays, and un- solder them from the board, then solder back in the new relays. Not really too difficult if you have the skill. I had an avionics technician at my workplace do it for me (for a $50 buck donation to their shop party fund). Way cheaper than buying new modules.
Last edited by av8or; Apr 23, 2016 at 09:57 PM.
You need to take off both door panels (six bucks worth of plastic tools from Harbor Freight) remove the control modules, Open them up and ID the relays, and un- solder them from the board, then solder back in the new relays. Not really too difficult if you have the skill. I had an avionics technician at my workplace do it for me (for a $50 buck donation to their shop party fund). Way cheaper than buying new modules.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ck-issues.html
Post #10 identifies the various relays and what they control.
If you are looking for an easy way out look up (GOOGLE)
autoclockrepair.com
Last time I checked they had an exchange program where you send your DCM to them and for about $60 they send you a DCM that has had all the necessary repairs made. Many forum members have used them when they didn't want to take on the repair themselves. They also do the DIM HVAC repairs as I recall...
I have heard there may be similar services available on Ebay but I have never checked that out.
EDIT; This appears to be what you were talking about; http://autoclockrepair.com/c5_corvette_electronics
Their description says that it's the module if it will not "lock OR unlock," but my door locks, it just doesn't unlock. So maybe it's not the module?
Last edited by StealthStrike42; Apr 24, 2016 at 12:59 AM.
1) Lock Motor Failure
2) Unlock relay on the DCM failure.
Since your door LOCKS, the lock motor is KNOWN GOOD.
The two bottom relays on the DCM are the lock and unlock relays. Their job is to reverse the polarity of the 12V DC that is applied to the lock motor. Reversing polarity to the lock motor causes the same motor to either lock or unlock. Since your door will NOT UNLOCK the unlock relay on the drivers DCM has failed. Relay failures on the DCM are VERY common.
So if I do the exchange program, can I still lock and unlock my door through use of the key / physical latch that's located by the handle without the LDCM installed while I wait for the new part to arrive? This is my daily so I'd really like to be able to continue driving it while waiting on the new part. However, if I can't lock or unlock the door without that part installed, I could just borrow my Dad's Porsche for a few days... That's not really anything to complain about lol
http://www.vetteessentials.com/instr...or_handle.html
But what about removing the module? Which piece is that and how does it come out?
EDIT: This the piece? If so, what should I do to get it out?
Last edited by StealthStrike42; Apr 24, 2016 at 11:29 AM.
https://youtu.be/o2JlGRSkwYM
All I have to do now is drop $50 to that guy through paypal and grab some shipping supplies tonight, then send it off first thing tomorrow morning.






