Nitto NT-05 tires
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Le Mans Master
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From: dudley MA
Nitto NT-05 tires
Finally got to take out my 2000 vette for a nice ride today with my new Nitto NT-05 tires. My car has 453RWHP with 4.10 gears. There is no traction in first or second gear lol. It was 58 degrees out. I don't now if it was because it was cold or what. If this keeps up these tires are toast. The front's are 265/35/18 and the rears are 295/35/18.
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The cool weather most likely didn't help with the traction. That much power is quite a bit too for stock Z06 size rear tires.
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traction will be worse with those tires on the rear and it doesn't sound like that is what the op is looking for... if you want to have fun you're probably going to need a drag radial to take advantage of your power/gears... some people are opposed to running a drag radial year round but what's the point of adding power if you can't use it... I guess some people like to spin tires and think that's cool but personally I'd rather be accelerating
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Le Mans Master
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From: dudley MA
[QUOTE=neutron82;1592221491 some people are opposed to running a drag radial year round but what's the point of adding power if you can't use it...[/QUOTE]
I think drag radials will be in my future
I think drag radials will be in my future
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I run the very same size / brand / NT-05 (295-35-18 all 4) on my Autocross Z-28, and they definitely respond much better in a moderate heat....
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Finally got to take out my 2000 vette for a nice ride today with my new Nitto NT-05 tires. My car has 453RWHP with 4.10 gears. There is no traction in first or second gear lol. It was 58 degrees out. I don't now if it was because it was cold or what. If this keeps up these tires are toast. The front's are 265/35/18 and the rears are 295/35/18.
Elastic hysteresis of an idealized rubber band. The area in the center of the hysteresis loop is the energy dissipated due to internal friction.
In the elastic hysteresis of rubber, the area in the center of a hysteresis loop is the energy dissipated due to material internal friction.
Elastic hysteresis was one of the first types of hysteresis to be examined.[9][10]
A simple way to understand it is in terms of a rubber band with weights attached to it. If the top of a rubber band is hung on a hook and small weights are attached to the bottom of the band one at a time, it will get longer. As more weights are loaded onto it, the band will continue to extend because the force the weights are exerting on the band is increasing. When each weight is taken off, or unloaded, the band will get shorter as the force is reduced. As the weights are taken off, each weight that produced a specific length as it was loaded onto the band now produces a slightly longer length as it is unloaded. This is because the band does not obey Hooke's law perfectly. The hysteresis loop of an idealized rubber band is shown in the figure.
In terms of force, the rubber band was harder to stretch when it was being loaded than when it was being unloaded. In terms of time, when the band is unloaded, the effect (the length) lagged behind the cause(the force of the weights) because the length has not yet reached the value it had for the same weight during the loading part of the cycle. In terms of energy, more energy was required during the loading than the unloading, the excess energy being dissipated as heat.
Elastic hysteresis is more pronounced when the loading and unloading is done quickly than when it is done slowly.[11] Some materials such as hard metals don't show elastic hysteresis under a moderate load, whereas other hard materials like granite and marble do. Materials such as rubber exhibit a high degree of elastic hysteresis.
When the intrinsic hysteresis of rubber is being measured, the material can be considered to behave like a gas. When a rubber band is stretched it heats up, and if it is suddenly released, it cools down perceptibly. These effects correspond to a large hysteresis from the thermal exchange with the environment and a smaller hysteresis due to internal friction within the rubber. This proper, intrinsic hysteresis can be measured only if the rubber band is adiabatically isolated.
Small vehicle suspensions using rubber (or other elastomers) can achieve the dual function of springing and damping because rubber, unlike metal springs, has pronounced hysteresis and does not return all the absorbed compression energy on the rebound. Mountain bikes have made use of elastomer suspension, as did the original Mini car.
The primary cause of rolling resistance when a body (such as a ball, tire, or wheel) rolls on a surface is hysteresis. This is attributed to the viscoelastic characteristics of the material of the rolling body.
Melting Slicks
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NT05 need some heat to work in my experience. I've ran those and the Continental DW and the DW even though a higher treadwear rating... had better grip in those moderate temps. Wait for a warmer day or try to work some heat into the tires. I have a C5Z ~450whp.
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traction will be worse with those tires on the rear and it doesn't sound like that is what the op is looking for... if you want to have fun you're probably going to need a drag radial to take advantage of your power/gears... some people are opposed to running a drag radial year round but what's the point of adding power if you can't use it... I guess some people like to spin tires and think that's cool but personally I'd rather be accelerating
I have Invos, and 643RWHP, and they're worthless until about 75 MPH. Right now I'm trying to decide between NT05Rs, or MT SS rear tires so I can occasionally enjoy my power.
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Le Mans Master
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From: dudley MA
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I think nt05r's would be perfect, mine did great with about 100hp more than your setup with 305/35/19's... on the street they would break loose at the top of first if I didn't try to feather it and dead hook 2nd and from there on out, and this was with c5z trans gearing and 3.42 gears... I could do highway pulls from 40-50 and just take off with no spin at all... they are considerably cheaper than mickey thompson's and will probably last longer when street driven... I just wanted to try the et street s/s out after adding some more power, I do not want to swap wheels out all the time so I was looking for the best traction possible in 19's
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I think nt05r's would be perfect, mine did great with about 100hp more than your setup with 305/35/19's... on the street they would break loose at the top of first if I didn't try to feather it and dead hook 2nd and from there on out, and this was with c5z trans gearing and 3.42 gears... I could do highway pulls from 40-50 and just take off with no spin at all... they are considerably cheaper than mickey thompson's and will probably last longer when street driven... I just wanted to try the et street s/s out after adding some more power, I do not want to swap wheels out all the time so I was looking for the best traction possible in 19's
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I have never used nt01's so I can't really say but I would expect them to be in line with r888's... I had r888's when I was low 400's na and they would spin first gear and hook from there on, I didn't think they would be able to handle the power with boost so I swapped them out to nt05r's before that happened... while the r888 does get better straight line traction than any street tire it is still designed for corners hence the stiff sidewall, so it leaves some on the table if you are looking for a straight line tire... the nt01 is similar in design so I would assume this would be true for them as well, actually I believe toyo and nitto are manufactured from the same company