View Poll Results: How many have seen the P1415/P1416 error codes?
Just P1415
1
7.69%
Just P1416
4
30.77%
Both
1
7.69%
Neither
7
53.85%
Voters: 13. You may not vote on this poll
Dealing with the P1416/P1415 code.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 259
Likes: 40
From: Summerville, SC
Dealing with the P1416/P1415 code.
I've read loads of posts on this issue but I'm interested with some of the odds on this check valve problem.
If you've gotten this code, how many just cleared the code and found it was a glitch and have had no other issues.
How many had the passenger side and not the drivers side valve cause a problem or vise-versa.
Did you pay to have it fixed correctly, do it yourself, use the blow out/clean method, or the full bypass method and what were the final results.
What was your mileage when you first had this issue with the check valve.
How many miles do you have and have never had a problem?
I've got 43,000 miles and my passenger side coded. I never saw a post that had members respond to the likes of the questions above. Is this something all vettes are going to see or just a few? If this is posted somewhere else, please point me in the right direction.
If you've gotten this code, how many just cleared the code and found it was a glitch and have had no other issues.
How many had the passenger side and not the drivers side valve cause a problem or vise-versa.
Did you pay to have it fixed correctly, do it yourself, use the blow out/clean method, or the full bypass method and what were the final results.
What was your mileage when you first had this issue with the check valve.
How many miles do you have and have never had a problem?
I've got 43,000 miles and my passenger side coded. I never saw a post that had members respond to the likes of the questions above. Is this something all vettes are going to see or just a few? If this is posted somewhere else, please point me in the right direction.
Last edited by caddman11; May 19, 2016 at 01:55 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,404
Likes: 1,595
From: Western NY
I think that part of the problem for me, is my car doesn't get driven daily, so the valves sit in a static position for days at a time, weeks at a time during the winter.
This problem has been discussed before, and there was a "solution" posted, where you disconnect the air hose at the connection adjacent to the alternator, spray in a load of throttle body cleaner, then hit it with a low pressure blast from an air hose. In the past, I simply put in some of the t/b cleaner then started the car.
This problem has been discussed before, and there was a "solution" posted, where you disconnect the air hose at the connection adjacent to the alternator, spray in a load of throttle body cleaner, then hit it with a low pressure blast from an air hose. In the past, I simply put in some of the t/b cleaner then started the car.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 651
Likes: 45
From: Raleigh area, NC
Have had the right side code....cleared itself after a month, came back, tried wd40 trick did not help at first, cleared itself again.
Could be warmer weather clears it temporarily.
Would love to get it tuned out....
Could be warmer weather clears it temporarily.
Would love to get it tuned out....
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 259
Likes: 40
From: Summerville, SC
OK, I went in and cleared all my codes. Took the car for a short drive, engine cold for at least 24 hours, no check light. Took it out for dinner and put on another 40 miles and still no issues. I'm really hoping I don't see any more issues. Thanks for posting but this one freaked me out when I found out the hoops that have to be jumped through because of the location of the valve.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 345
Likes: 86
From: Goodlettsville Tennessee
I got the passenger side code and tried the Cleaner trick. I'm pretty mecanical so I just replaced both valves with new ones.
They are only like $10 each. You do have to remove the intake to properly reach the passenger side.
My advice would be not to waste too much time trying to clean fix them and just source new ones.
They are only like $10 each. You do have to remove the intake to properly reach the passenger side.
My advice would be not to waste too much time trying to clean fix them and just source new ones.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 259
Likes: 40
From: Summerville, SC
After clearing the codes and driving for a day with no problems, the code is back---any advice on what parts I need to buy before I start this job. I use to work on my bikes all the time, how hard is to remove and replace the intake manifold.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 382
Likes: 53
I literally just did my passenger side this weekend. Those of you that think clearing the code or spraying it will fix it are in for a surprise. It will come back eventually. I'll tell you now man, if you don't have a flex head ratchet to get that nut holding the bracket on behind the head, go get one before you start the job. You will also probably need a small torch to get the old valve off. Mine was crusted on their no amount of strength was going to loosen it. There are some good threads on here on how to get the intake off, etc etc. Let us know if you have specific questions. Oh and the OEM part can be found by searching "ACDelco 214-1045 GM Original Equipment Air Injection Valve". It's about 30 bucks on Amazon.
Last edited by twokbolt; May 21, 2016 at 07:40 PM.