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I just had one installed mid-2015; brand new product, on a 2000 C5.
I thought fitment left a lot to be desired. My shop had to make some relief cuts in the Vararam ducts do not interfere with the front bumper.
Are you asking about the air bridge part, or the whole CAI? I've had both, and I had to adjust the length of the silicon coupler so the hood wouldn't hit the airbridge, but it's NBD. If it's the Vararam ducts that feed the air from the grille, they're a bit more difficult, but still pretty easy.
I have the vararam and the power duct on my C5Z. They fit really well and the install was simple. But the hood liner does rub slightly on the coupler that attaches to the MAF of the power duct. My hood liner looks like junk anyways and I eventually want to change the coupler to a black instead of a red anyways...Even if it does rub the black one it won't show up anyways. The vararam is the absolute best and true CAI on the market in my opinion.
Last edited by Ferg03 Z06; May 25, 2016 at 03:23 AM.
Reason: grammar
had both on my 03 c5z and it did rub quite a bit. I heard of guys using the stock bridge and supposedly there wasn't a change in performance but i don't know personally.
If you use the stock bridge and coupler you will eliminate some problem that occur with the power duct. The PCM was programmed with firmware that is looking for the turbulence cause by the coupler. With the power duct you smooth out the air but the PCM sees slighty more air moving through the TB at a slower speed. It will lean out the mixture and often cause some rpm fluctuations on decel as well. Best is to run a scan tool after install and see if you need to make any modifications.
If you use the stock bridge and coupler you will eliminate some problem that occur with the power duct. The PCM was programmed with firmware that is looking for the turbulence cause by the coupler. With the power duct you smooth out the air but the PCM sees slighty more air moving through the TB at a slower speed. It will lean out the mixture and often cause some rpm fluctuations on decel as well. Best is to run a scan tool after install and see if you need to make any modifications.
I moved my Map sensor next to the throttle body and made the coupler as short as I could at the throttle body (this was a redo because of hood rubbing) I have no more issues !!!
If you use the stock bridge and coupler you will eliminate some problem that occur with the power duct. The PCM was programmed with firmware that is looking for the turbulence cause by the coupler. With the power duct you smooth out the air but the PCM sees slighty more air moving through the TB at a slower speed. It will lean out the mixture and often cause some rpm fluctuations on decel as well. Best is to run a scan tool after install and see if you need to make any modifications.
I'm running the OEM duct, the MAF in the stock location and had a Chuck Cow tune... works great
I moved my Map sensor next to the throttle body and made the coupler as short as I could at the throttle body (this was a redo because of hood rubbing) I have no more issues !!!
Most couplers going from the 3 1/2 to 4 inch required take up a lot of room (length) so I cut a 3 1/2 down to the narrow part of the throttle body and then just ran the 4 inch over that to take as little room as I could. (the power duct seems to fit the best to get it close to the throttle body( remember I have my MAP sensor next to the throttle body) the on the filter side of the power duct I used what ever length was needed.
Very interesting, clever idea! Separate kit to move the sensor? Stock MAF sensor? Or did you use an aftermarket one?
Originally Posted by akapounder
Most couplers going from the 3 1/2 to 4 inch required take up a lot of room (length) so I cut a 3 1/2 down to the narrow part of the throttle body and then just ran the 4 inch over that to take as little room as I could. (the power duct seems to fit the best to get it close to the throttle body( remember I have my MAP sensor next to the throttle body) the on the filter side of the power duct I used what ever length was needed.
Well damn Dad was right keep your mouth shut and your ears open you might learn something new. Thanks guys I will play with my air coupler to move it away from the hood.
Also I would like to add to this that the 2 air ducts that go down towards the screens where the air enters I took and riveted all the way around and used black silicone to seal the entire bottom so no air slips through where it mounts at the bottom it increased the amount of air going into the throttle body.
Very interesting, clever idea! Separate kit to move the sensor? Stock MAF sensor? Or did you use an aftermarket one?
I watched a install video on you tube and they said some found better driveability with the MAP moved next to the throttle body. I just thought it was a cleaner install, not sure if I bought extra parts (don't think so). I just have a lot of that stuff around from working on other cars. Also told Doug at ECS that my MAP was moved so he could adjust my tune accordingly !!!!
I'm running the OEM duct, the MAF in the stock location and had a Chuck Cow tune... works great 
