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Were you holding the radiator up to a LIGHT to see thru it? My pristine 04 23k mile car radiator LOOKED clean... but, if you held it up to the sun to look thru it... it was COMPLETELY blocked NO LIGHT... I had to wash between the fins with the garden hose...several times until it was perfectly clean and I could see thru it...they can LOOK very clean and be mostly or completely blocked off
I couldn't BLOW that $hit out with AIR either... I tried, wouldn't work...........
It was like a little tiny brick mason had taken to task with my car to fill every little void between the fins with iddy biddy bricks of made of dust clay (I guess) condensation and dust along with hot dry Oklahoma wind just block it off...
I had the same experience, could not believe the junk that came out !!!!
yes i was able to see true the radiator, the car was modded when i bought it i guess the previous owner cleaned it when he cammed the car shortly before i bought it
so at this point i'm 100% sure its not a dirty radiator & the fans are working correctly, I will put it up on ramps and bleed it again just to be sure
yes i was able to see true the radiator, the car was modded when i bought it i guess the previous owner cleaned it when he cammed the car shortly before i bought it
so at this point i'm 100% sure its not a dirty radiator & the fans are working correctly, I will put it up on ramps and bleed it again just to be sure
Good deal... was just making sure... I still thinks it may be air... but, it's kinda weird I would think an AIR Lock that prevents circulation would make it over heat ALL the time?
Good deal... was just making sure... I still thinks it may be air... but, it's kinda weird I would think an AIR Lock that prevents circulation would make it over heat ALL the time?
yeah it just dont seam right i can drive in traffic with out the a/c on and the engine temps are lower then when the a/c is on while on the freeway?
only thing that would make sense to me is the a/c compressor is putting to much strain on the engine but i dont know how all that works to really be sure?
Although it has never ever worked to get all the air out for me, here is the shop manual procedure:
Start w/ a cold engine
Remove rad. cap
Idle for 1 minute
Install cap
Cycle RPM from idle to 3000 until coolant reaches 210F
Shut off engine
Remove cap
Start engine
Idle for 1 minute
Install cap
Cycle RPM from idle to 3000 until coolant reaches 210F
Shut off engine
Remove cap
Top off
Thanks for this post, I drove the car in 85-90 degree weather for about 140 miles and it was sooooooo much better after using this trick.
Next thing I have to do is cut some holes in my ZR1 style splitter.
I just replaced the surge tank on my 01 convertible. Drove it yesterday after I finished with it. 99 to 101 in central Florida. The high temp was 219 in stop and go traffic, a/c on. As soon as traveled a couple of miles at steady speed it dropped to 184 and never went over 198 again, even traffic. I did not lose much coolant win the top inlet tube broke on the original and almost none when I removed the bottom hoses. It took about 1/2 gallon of Dexcool premixed to bring it to the "full cold line". I burped the system as described by 8Vette7 and seems to be working fine. I don't know about other places, we hitting 95-98% humidity every day and that can be causing hotter run temps as well as the heat.