Muffler bypass: headers before/after
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Racer
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 353
Likes: 40
From: Owasso Oklahoma
Muffler bypass: headers before/after
I just got done installing Texas Speed's Long Tube Headers. I kept the factory H-pipe and just cut off the cuts and some extra piping to get it to fit with the supplied connectors.
I must say, I am very surprised with the sound results!
Before the headers, I had stock exhaust manifolds and factory cats and h-pipe. I did the cheap-o muffler bypass mod and just drilled about 4 3inch holes in the pipes before they went into the muffler. The sound was louder but it was louder EVERYWHERE. There was a drone at around 65-80mph. I did not mind it, but my wife was not a fan.
I expected the headers to push the noise over her limit, requiring me to schedule a trip to the exhaust shop to patch the holes before the muffler up.
WRONG!
After starting the car up after the install, I could definitely tell a 'throatier' sound. It was louder, but not much at idle. It just sounded 'better'. A poor comparison (but the best I can think of) is like saying before the headers, it sounded like a Wanna-be Harley. After the headers, it has that 'something extra' to it that makes it a Harley. Or, before the headers it was Lionel Ritchie. Sounded better than most, but not 'tough'. Now, it sounds like a seasoned blues singer.
The cabin noise is where I was most surprised. It is by far MUCH louder at WOT, but that's it. At idle and cruising speeds from 30-80 it is much better than before. No drone, and with the radio playing, much less 'sound' in general. However, press the gas to make it bark and it will definitely out-bark anything next to it.
I just thought I'd share my experience in case anyone out there with a conservative-minded wife was worried after trying a muffler bypass mod.
Also, I am not a mechanic at all. I used the LS1howto instructions for the entire installation except the H-pipe. It took me 5 days instead of 1, but I was doing it by myself and it has been 100*+ outside. I would do it again, but only because I am poor and know I got the thing to start back up. I was worried for a bit.
I suggest starting out using header STUDS instead of the factory bolts...I got studs after wasting a day trying to hang those bastards by myself. Also, make sure you bolt the steering rack bolt on with the wheels/steering wheel in the right direction. It is very tough to get the bolt back out after applying fresh Locktite only to realize your steering wheel is ****-eyed. Lastly, order the stupid O2 extensions if you are getting the TSP headers. I managed to miss the drop-down box and had to wait 2 extra days to get them.
I must say, I am very surprised with the sound results!
Before the headers, I had stock exhaust manifolds and factory cats and h-pipe. I did the cheap-o muffler bypass mod and just drilled about 4 3inch holes in the pipes before they went into the muffler. The sound was louder but it was louder EVERYWHERE. There was a drone at around 65-80mph. I did not mind it, but my wife was not a fan.
I expected the headers to push the noise over her limit, requiring me to schedule a trip to the exhaust shop to patch the holes before the muffler up.
WRONG!
After starting the car up after the install, I could definitely tell a 'throatier' sound. It was louder, but not much at idle. It just sounded 'better'. A poor comparison (but the best I can think of) is like saying before the headers, it sounded like a Wanna-be Harley. After the headers, it has that 'something extra' to it that makes it a Harley. Or, before the headers it was Lionel Ritchie. Sounded better than most, but not 'tough'. Now, it sounds like a seasoned blues singer.
The cabin noise is where I was most surprised. It is by far MUCH louder at WOT, but that's it. At idle and cruising speeds from 30-80 it is much better than before. No drone, and with the radio playing, much less 'sound' in general. However, press the gas to make it bark and it will definitely out-bark anything next to it.
I just thought I'd share my experience in case anyone out there with a conservative-minded wife was worried after trying a muffler bypass mod.
Also, I am not a mechanic at all. I used the LS1howto instructions for the entire installation except the H-pipe. It took me 5 days instead of 1, but I was doing it by myself and it has been 100*+ outside. I would do it again, but only because I am poor and know I got the thing to start back up. I was worried for a bit.
I suggest starting out using header STUDS instead of the factory bolts...I got studs after wasting a day trying to hang those bastards by myself. Also, make sure you bolt the steering rack bolt on with the wheels/steering wheel in the right direction. It is very tough to get the bolt back out after applying fresh Locktite only to realize your steering wheel is ****-eyed. Lastly, order the stupid O2 extensions if you are getting the TSP headers. I managed to miss the drop-down box and had to wait 2 extra days to get them.
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Nothing like a do-it-yourself install to make for a good project. 
for adding a good mod to the car.
for adding a good mod to the car.
1/4 mile/AutoX
Joined: Jun 2014
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From: Buffalo Texas
why did you have to mess with the steering rack ???? and I used the stock bolts, I just started without the gasket, then took out the front bolt and put the front hole of the gasket in the hole and then did the back ?? as usual more than one way to skin your knuckles, or is it cat ??? I have installed headers on a few cars in my old age and I find headers gives you more of a tuned sound instead of just loud !!!
