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Old Jul 25, 2016 | 08:54 AM
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Default Another HVAC issue

Ok Ok... I know I know... do a search etc, bla bla bla...


I did some searching but not sure my exact issue is being replicated here. To start... just bought my first vette (a 1998 C5) in April with a spun rod bearing. Anyway... I took it to a shop for rebuild and after picking it up my AC system was totally wacked out. It was not right before it went in but the only codes were related to blend door servo motors.


Anyway... I replaced the passenger servo and all codes went away and the passenger side got cold BUT it was a little colder than the drivers side. It seems the shop did not connect the small vacuum line on the back of the intake that operates the zone doors so I get a lot of air blowing around inside the system and very little coming out.


That being said... when I had the dash apart replacing the passenger side servo I tested the controls by connecting vacuum and they worked fine. Unfortunately I did not reconnect the vacuum line to the vacuum control system . Well as mentioned before the air coming out of the passenger side was somewhat colder than the drivers side so I assumed I had an issue with the driver's side servo. Because I did not reconnect the vacuum line, felt the driver's side servo was an issue and felt I had the air bag mount a little out of place, I decided to disassemble and replace the drivers side servo.


I just got that done this weekend and now I'm throwing a B0441 code that wasn't there before. Now the air is even warmer out of the drivers side and even cooler out of the passenger side... The only difference was I had the battery disconnected for about a week and it was disconnected when I replaced this one whereas the previous one the battery was never disconnected.


After doing research I performed a blend door recalibration but that did not do any good. My question here is did I do the recalibration properly. I read different explanations on this and the one I performed was to have the car running and AC on high then pull fuses 18 and 27 for more than a minute. So after 3 minutes I put 27 back in then put 18 back in and reset the codes. After a couple minutes the code came back and no real change in operation.


Did I perform the correct recalibration process? Is there something else I can do to keep from having to remove the dash again? Both old servos had cracked gears so I think it's a good thing that I replaced them both but not sure why putting in a new drivers side servo would cause an issue on the passenger side? Or is my right and left thinking incorrect?

Last edited by rriddle; Jul 25, 2016 at 11:39 AM.
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Old Jul 25, 2016 | 09:07 PM
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Did you check all of the vacuum tubing. These cars often have tubing failure due to battery leak (earlier years) damaging the tubing. When I got my 2001 this was the cause. Something to consider - I'm not an expert.
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Old Jul 25, 2016 | 09:14 PM
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Yes I pulled the fender almost off and traced the vacuum line. I applied slight compressed air and the noise came from directly behind the intake.

Thank you for your reply!
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Old Jul 26, 2016 | 08:15 AM
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C5's (and many other GM cars) AC's don't work like most people think. The evaporator cools the passenger side first, then the drivers side. If the system is low on Freon, it does not get cold enough to do both sides. In many cases if the passenger side is colder than the drivers side, you just need a shot of Freon, sometimes as little as 1/2 a can, quick and easy fix.

Not as common is when drivers side cold and passenger not, that is usually an actuator/door, sometimes can just be reset.
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Old Jul 26, 2016 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by ronwc
C5's (and many other GM cars) AC's don't work like most people think. The evaporator cools the passenger side first, then the drivers side. If the system is low on Freon, it does not get cold enough to do both sides. In many cases if the passenger side is colder than the drivers side, you just need a shot of Freon, sometimes as little as 1/2 a can, quick and easy fix.

Not as common is when drivers side cold and passenger not, that is usually an actuator/door, sometimes can just be reset.


Hi ronwc. I replaced EVERYTHING AC except the evaporator while the engine was out. I will connect gages but I think the Freon level should be ok. My concern here is what I can do to get rid of the code without pulling the dash again. Right now both actuators are new and when I replaced the passenger I did not get any codes, then when I replaced the drivers side a week later I get a code B0441.
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Old Jul 26, 2016 | 02:50 PM
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I'm not an expert but are you sure you have the one way check valve in the fender well connected correctly? The line on the bottom comes from the manifold and the other two - One goes to the canister right above and the other goes into the Vette's Cabin to the HVAC vacuum block.
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Old Jul 26, 2016 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by kpcets
I'm not an expert but are you sure you have the one way check valve in the fender well connected correctly? The line on the bottom comes from the manifold and the other two - One goes to the canister right above and the other goes into the Vette's Cabin to the HVAC vacuum block.
Yep... I tested it both ways. It works just not connected behind the manifold.
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Old Jul 26, 2016 | 09:39 PM
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I had a number of weird AC issues when I got my 99. After getting things fixed ( not new actuators),and charged correctly, the codes went away? If you are not sure about your charge, you may need to have it evacuated and the proper amount put back in as a starter, and see where that takes you .
Good luck.
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Old Jul 27, 2016 | 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by dmarkshark
I had a number of weird AC issues when I got my 99. After getting things fixed ( not new actuators),and charged correctly, the codes went away? If you are not sure about your charge, you may need to have it evacuated and the proper amount put back in as a starter, and see where that takes you .
Good luck.


Well while the engine was out I replaced the lines, condenser, accumulator and the compressor. After the engine was back in it was vacuumed down overnight to boil off any moisture then charged with an evacuator/charge unit. I was not there so I'm not sure the shop did it correctly but I'm assuming they did.


I'm still hoping there is an easy way to reset the system or whatever is necessary to get rid of the B0441 code. Anyone have thoughts on this and why it would throw this code after replacing both servo's. Is the left servo the driver's or passengers side?


Thanks!!
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Old Jul 27, 2016 | 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by ronwc
C5's (and many other GM cars) AC's don't work like most people think. The evaporator cools the passenger side first, then the drivers side. If the system is low on Freon, it does not get cold enough to do both sides. In many cases if the passenger side is colder than the drivers side, you just need a shot of Freon, sometimes as little as 1/2 a can, quick and easy fix.

Not as common is when drivers side cold and passenger not, that is usually an actuator/door, sometimes can just be reset.
Thank you gonna try Freon shot
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Old Jul 27, 2016 | 03:41 PM
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One other issue that may or may not help. When I got my 99, had a guy replace the AC system (condenser, dryer, and orifice tube). After his repair, I had a lot of cooling and code issues, tried all of the common fixes. Finally took it to another shop, they fixed it, and the problem was the orifice tube was put in backwards. No problems since then, and no codes.
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Old Jul 27, 2016 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by dmarkshark
One other issue that may or may not help. When I got my 99, had a guy replace the AC system (condenser, dryer, and orifice tube). After his repair, I had a lot of cooling and code issues, tried all of the common fixes. Finally took it to another shop, they fixed it, and the problem was the orifice tube was put in backwards. No problems since then, and no codes.
Hi. This thread is for code B0441 after installing a new servo on the drivers's side. The code is servo/blend door related. Anyone have thoughts on what could cause this code to be thrown on a new servo where the old servo had a cracked gear and no codes??

Last edited by rriddle; Jul 27, 2016 at 03:58 PM.
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Old Jul 27, 2016 | 10:23 PM
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Sorry, I had the exact issue, with code, replaced the actuator(drivers side, etcc...... so, codes came back, until the orifice was found to be the issue, after it was charged again, the code went away. So, while you would think it has nothing to do with the code, my experience says that ain't so, and while this may not be your problem, I'm just putting it out there as something to look at. You could probably have someone put gauges on the system and see if there is a blockage?

Last edited by dmarkshark; Jul 27, 2016 at 11:01 PM.
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Old Jul 28, 2016 | 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by dmarkshark
Sorry, I had the exact issue, with code, replaced the actuator(drivers side, etcc...... so, codes came back, until the orifice was found to be the issue, after it was charged again, the code went away. So, while you would think it has nothing to do with the code, my experience says that ain't so, and while this may not be your problem, I'm just putting it out there as something to look at. You could probably have someone put gauges on the system and see if there is a blockage?


No worries. I have gauges and it seems to be working correctly on the closed loop liquid side.
I think the key thing here is that there were no codes with the original servo. I was an idiot and did not test it before re-assembling the interior where-as I did with the passenger side. After removing the driver's side servo I pulled it apart and the large gear was cracked but it was not pulled apart to the extent the passenger side was. So that being said... that is where I'm confused. I'm wondering if this B0441 code is telling me the servo is possibly bad or if I need to fulfill a specific procedure because I had the battery out for a long time or that I did not perform the re-calibration procedure correctly after it was installed.
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Old Jul 28, 2016 | 12:30 PM
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Did you try this?

A response from Bill Curlee in another thread. "Try to clear the DTCs. TURN the HVAC unit OFF. Clear the DTCs. You should hear the actuators cycle. When they STOP cycling, turn the AC Unit ON and see if you still get the DTCs Clear them with the unit on if they come back and then see if they stay cleared!"
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Old Jul 28, 2016 | 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by kpcets
Did you try this?

A response from Bill Curlee in another thread. "Try to clear the DTCs. TURN the HVAC unit OFF. Clear the DTCs. You should hear the actuators cycle. When they STOP cycling, turn the AC Unit ON and see if you still get the DTCs Clear them with the unit on if they come back and then see if they stay cleared!"


I think I did but not in purpose... Thanks for the info. I'll make sure to go through that process as soon as I get it back from the shop.
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Old Aug 24, 2016 | 10:31 AM
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Default Root Cause found

The new actuator was bad. After the supplier sent me a 2nd one and installed it all was good.


I'm almost an expert at C5 dash removal now!


Thank you to everyone that responded!
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