Anti-Rusting Rotors
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Anti-Rusting Rotors
So when I bought my rotors, they came with no pre-applied protectant and I had only realized that when I came outside one day and saw they were completely rusted over. I read a little in the forum and many people say they simply sand the rust, and cover the rotor in paint in order to stop the rusting. My question is: Can I use regular spray primer, paint, and clear-coat to do this? -- Do I have to use High-Temp?
Edit: I have a 1998 C5 if that helps.
Edit: I have a 1998 C5 if that helps.
Last edited by jaydaug99; Jul 31, 2016 at 07:38 PM.
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What part are you concerned with rusting? If they came with a zinc coating, that should hold up on the hat and where the pad does not come into contact with the face. But where the pad contacts, that's going to be bare steel and WILL rust up.
If the hat is your concern, like others have said, a high temp paint will keep it looking good.
If the hat is your concern, like others have said, a high temp paint will keep it looking good.
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I'm not sure what the "parts" of the rotor are, but I've never heard the term "hat" used. Which part of the rotor is that?
Also, the outer rim and inner hub of the rotor are the places I wanted to de-rust, since the brakes already remove most of the rust on the rotor's face. I don't know what those areas of the rotor are called though.
Sorry for the spiel, but thanks for your reply!
EDIT:
This is not my rotor but the appearance is the same. This is how my rotor looked before I sanded the rust off earlier this afternoon.
Last edited by jaydaug99; Jul 31, 2016 at 10:22 PM.
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You do not want to paint the area where the pads contact the rotor.... the rotor is cast iron, it will rust when introduced to water. if you paint everything that doesn't come in contact with the pads, you will be ok, but the contact area will always rust when introduced to water. A few brake applications will scrub off any rust in this are ( Known as the "fire Path " )... you will need high temp paint. 500*F +.
The rotors should come off, be thoroughly cleaned with mineral spirits, wire brushed, and the fire path masked off... Be sure to spray the cooling vanes too. Clear or silver are popular colors.
The rotors should come off, be thoroughly cleaned with mineral spirits, wire brushed, and the fire path masked off... Be sure to spray the cooling vanes too. Clear or silver are popular colors.
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You do not want to paint the area where the pads contact the rotor.... the rotor is cast iron, it will rust when introduced to water. if you paint everything that doesn't come in contact with the pads, you will be ok, but the contact area will always rust when introduced to water. A few brake applications will scrub off any rust in this are ( Known as the "fire Path " )... you will need high temp paint. 500*F +.
The rotors should come off, be thoroughly cleaned with mineral spirits, wire brushed, and the fire path masked off... Be sure to spray the cooling vanes too. Clear or silver are popular colors.
The rotors should come off, be thoroughly cleaned with mineral spirits, wire brushed, and the fire path masked off... Be sure to spray the cooling vanes too. Clear or silver are popular colors.
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What part are you concerned with rusting? If they came with a zinc coating, that should hold up on the hat and where the pad does not come into contact with the face. But where the pad contacts, that's going to be bare steel and WILL rust up.
If the hat is your concern, like others have said, a high temp paint will keep it looking good.
If the hat is your concern, like others have said, a high temp paint will keep it looking good.
Or get the rotor hats powdercoated.
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04
Not sure why you are questioning the advice here.. you obviously know very little about automotive technology. Masking off the fire paths takes five minutes per rotor. It's common sense to anyone who knows anything about brakes and rotors and their function.
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no the paint will gum up the pads, and brake dry clean or lacquer thinner would be better to prep the rotors for paint, mineral spirits is kinda oil based and the paint won't stick that well. (the term hat was meant to be heat)or not ???
Last edited by Pounder; Aug 1, 2016 at 12:03 AM.
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Mineral spirits is what I use on my rotors, once a year.. to prep them for paint.
16 years old, 90,000 miles...been doing this stuff for a long time. ( over 55 years )
look better now then when I put them on 16 years ago ( note my car has no MCM hood on it in this picture...My MCM hood is 16 years old
16 years old, 90,000 miles...been doing this stuff for a long time. ( over 55 years )
look better now then when I put them on 16 years ago ( note my car has no MCM hood on it in this picture...My MCM hood is 16 years old
Last edited by Evil-Twin; Jul 31, 2016 at 11:55 PM.
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Paint will foul the pads and cause fade.. you do not want to try to stop with paint on the rotor fire path. If you hurt someone in an accident and had painted rotors, it could ruin your for life...
Not sure why you are questioning the advice here.. you obviously know very little about automotive technology. Masking off the fire paths takes five minutes per rotor. It's common sense to anyone who knows anything about brakes and rotors and their function.
Not sure why you are questioning the advice here.. you obviously know very little about automotive technology. Masking off the fire paths takes five minutes per rotor. It's common sense to anyone who knows anything about brakes and rotors and their function.
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Never saw a body shop paint rotors...
Mineral spirts has a slower flash point, after using mineral spirts and painting, the first dust coat is drawn into the cast iron as it flashes off slowly so there is no flaking. Rotors are sand casted with a very rough inner core, not smooth sheet metal parts.
Like I said, I am not new to this stuff, I do the research and apply the technology.
Rotors are not smooth sheet metal parts. I shouldn't have to tell you that, after all you have been a tech for 27 years. I don t have a problem with you telling the op what you use...I do however have a Big problem with you telling him that my advice is not worthy of any consideration and you offer nothing more than trying to equate a body shop that paints smooth sheet metal parts with the coarseness of a sand casted iron rotor.
It's not the first time you have tried to disrespect my advice to others. I put you on ignore once.. looks like I have to do it again.
Last edited by Evil-Twin; Aug 1, 2016 at 12:44 AM.
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You are the best.
Never saw a body shop paint rotors...
Mineral spirts has a slower flash point, after using mineral spirts and painting, the first dust coat is drawn into the cast iron as it flashes off slowly so there is no flaking. Rotors are sand casted with a very rough inner core, not smooth sheet metal parts.
Like I said, I am not new to this stuff, I do the research and apply the technology.
Rotors are not smooth sheet metal parts. I shouldn't have to tell you that, after all you have been a tech for 27 years. I don t have a problem with you telling the op what you use...I do however have a Big problem with you telling him that my advice is not worthy of any consideration and you offer nothing more than trying to equate a body shop that paints smooth sheet metal parts with the coarseness of a sand casted iron rotor.
It's not the first time you have tried to disrespect my advice to others. I put you on ignore once.. looks like I have to do it again.
Never saw a body shop paint rotors...
Mineral spirts has a slower flash point, after using mineral spirts and painting, the first dust coat is drawn into the cast iron as it flashes off slowly so there is no flaking. Rotors are sand casted with a very rough inner core, not smooth sheet metal parts.
Like I said, I am not new to this stuff, I do the research and apply the technology.
Rotors are not smooth sheet metal parts. I shouldn't have to tell you that, after all you have been a tech for 27 years. I don t have a problem with you telling the op what you use...I do however have a Big problem with you telling him that my advice is not worthy of any consideration and you offer nothing more than trying to equate a body shop that paints smooth sheet metal parts with the coarseness of a sand casted iron rotor.
It's not the first time you have tried to disrespect my advice to others. I put you on ignore once.. looks like I have to do it again.
1/4 mile/AutoX
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From: Buffalo Texas
I have clean many engine parts(most parts cleaners used mineral spirits) and painted them in my years as a tech. I found that the paint lasted a lot longer using brake dry clean or lacquer thinner before painting.
Last edited by Pounder; Aug 1, 2016 at 08:11 AM.
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