Hey guys, I'm going to be installing a CC vortex splitter and ACI side skirts in the next couple of weeks. I'm lowered as far as I can go on stock bolts. When jacking the car up I have to jack on one of the pucks up front, then slide a ramp under a wheel. Then move to the front cross member and jack the front end up with a piece of 2 x 6 on my jack pad.

When I lower the car and pull my jack out from the front I can barely get the jack out now with no splitter. Given the price, they might save me one step of having to jack up one puck when working on the car and prevent added risk to the side skirts from jacking, I'm entertaining the idea of picking up a set of Race Ramps RR-TJ Trak - Jax.

https://www.amazon.com/Race-Ramps-RR...rds=race+ramps

Would I be able to clear these ramps?

If not I would plan on picking up a 2 x 12, cutting to length and sliding under the front wheel after jacking up a puck up front. Then jack up the rest of the front, set car back down on 2 x 12 and roll back off of it. Unless someone has a more efficient idea. Thanks in advance.

 

You could also build your own ramps, you can create the incline you want.

I made these from scrap plywood that I was tossing out.

 

You may also want to consider the Race Ramps RR-SCALE-2 ramps. They are similar to Trak-Jax but they are only 2.5" tall and a little less expensive.

Reverse Logic also offers the ramps with an HD option which is recommended for commercial shops where the ramps will be subject to more abuse.

https://www.reverselogic.us/shop.htm...orm/p/20368274

 

Here is another DIY ramp I made. Just put in back of front wheels and roll backwards.


I made to clean the stuff that sucks into the radiator.

 

Splitter or no splitter, I find it's easier to put a jack under the front jacking spot on the frame and raise the car high enough to put a jack stand under it. Then go to the other side and do the same. Lastly, put the jack under the rear differential carrier and raise the rear high enough to put jack stands on both sides of the jack.

 

My low profile jack barely clears when I remove it from the front (puck) area.

I have the same skirts.

 

These are brilliant! The neat thing is that with the stoppers you don't need two people. Could I please have dimensions....LxWXH plus length of each piece?

Thanks!!!

 

Did you put anything on the bottom of them to not slide? Did you only make one to get jacking clearance under front cross member or two so you can do minor work?

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I have quite a bit of plywood scraps in my basement I could make use of, making 6speedsteve's suggestion the most cost effective.

 

I was some what restricted on my size because of only using what I had.

3/8" 11.5 x 37" each step is 7" long the top step is a full 8" from the stop and total height is 1-3/4"

All of the sections are nailed together using finishing nails, and the stop is screwed on, if I was to change anything it would be a taller stop which is 3/4" & longer top.

 

I did the same but with a 12x4 and it works just fine with my car. Those other ramps look great too.

 

I did not put anything on the bottom, I have 4, I have only had to use them twice to drive up with no issues, most of the time I use them to drive down after the car has been lifted, if my car is already in the garage I just lift each corner, once that is accomplished I have pictures of some of the other tools both purchased & made to get my car up in the air.

I have 2 of these I use under the control arms front or rear or the puck locations. I mostly use when removing one tire & rim at a time for cleaning.



These are used to lock into the cradles, front on top, rear on the bottom, the jack sits in a pocket of 1/2 plywood so nothing slides, my jack goes to about 24" high



And then I can adjust how high I want to put the car on these from 7 - 13" with all 4 layers & each 2 x 12 has bolts in the corners to keep from sliding & the plastic base is locked to the top 2 x 12

 

I have a C5 with a splitter and side skirts and my C5 was not lowered and there is no room without hitting the side skirts. I purchased race ramps and bought the extensions which lower the clearance required to get up the ramp. Once up, I can do whatever I need. I highly recommend but they are a bit costly but well worth it if you need to raise your car often. The other issue I have which perhaps someone can weigh in on is two things: 1) I had exterior under vehicle lights installed professionally. The installer mounted them around the frame and used zip ties so they are not moving at all but the lights cover a part of the frame and hence I cannot get my puck on unless I cut almost half of the fat part off (not a good idea). Even with the car on the race ramps, I cannot get the jack on the frame even without a puck in the right spot or I will crush the lights. I realize I need to take off the lights and move them. Does anyone have a good idea on how to mount them to the bottom of the C5 along the sides? Do I dare gamble with 3M tape or is there some kind of crazy epozy I can use or another way to mount? 2) I have a nice sound system and a sub-woofer in the rear which again same installer never put in because he was waiting for like 3 months for the cabinet that fits into the middle compartment of the hatchback coupe and the sub-woofer. I called him for several months and nothing. Yes he is a real shop with a physical location and a real business. So I got the cabinet myself and a good subwoofer. I mounted the sub-woofer in the cabinet and connected the wires as described in the sub woofer instructions outlined for a single sub-woofer. Lucky for me the wires for the sub-woofer were there from the installer and only needed to be connected. I have an amplifier which is also mounted in the rear of the car on the very back wall (tail). After connecting and playing with all of the controls on my Kenwood stereo, the sub-woofer does not seem to be working. It is brand new so I think the way the installer who jerked me around connected or maybe did not connect the sub-woofer wire is the problem. Anyone with any audio background who can give me basic trouble shooting on how to determine would be much appreciated. I dont need to know how to pull out console or dash and get to head unit etc. I just dont know how the wires should run from the head to the amplifier and to the subwoofer. If anyone helps, I would be so appreciative.

This forum and all of the contributors, readers etc. are simply the best. A community that helps one another and cares. How great would it be if our country and the rest of the world worked the same way. Just wanted to say thanks as so many of these forum posts have helped me and countless others.

 

Just install air jacks that are attached to the frame. Hook up nitrogen and it lifts on its own.

 

Thanks for your response. I will have to look into that.