Why Not Armoal

Been using 303 for the last 10+ years and wouldn't use anything else on my interior hard surfaces and tires. Yes, it's not cheap but it seems to cover better and last longer than anything else I've used. A gallon jug is about $35 on Amazon compared to $32 for the armor all.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Id like to try the 303 aerospace but haven't taken the time to order any
303 leaves a slight shine but to me it seems different than Armor All. Not as extreme or greasy.
If you are wanting to try it, you can now find it a lot easier locally and if you like it go for the gallon jug which makes it a lot cheaper.
Armorall:
Before they modified the formula, once you started using Armorall on your car, you couldn't stop. The problem was that if you stopped, the dash and the vinyl dried out and cracked. They were sued and quietly settled all the cases and reformulated it so the problem wouldn't happen anymore. I just don't use Armorall anything anymore. I will also say from personal experience. We bought my wife a used Altima when we first moved (it was a beater car because her credit sucked). and someone had used Armorall on the interior for the entire life of the car. It took me weeks to clean it. The steering wheel had turned to goo. Literally it broke down the leather and turned it to a gooey-glue like substance.
Aerospace 303 for Vinyl's and Plastics:
I prefer 303 Aerospace for interior vinyl/plastic. I use it twice a year in the interior of my car. It doesn't need any more than that. And I use it sparingly. The bottle will last a lifetime. Before reapplying, I clean with a mild handsoap and a damp microfiber towel, then reapply. The stuff lasts and lasts and lasts. Excellent UV protection. No greasy feeling left behind, and as long as you don't go overboard, you'll have a satin as opposed to a reflective surface when done.
Leatherique:
Leatherique is popular for Leather but I've seen the cleaner actually remove the coloring off of the leather on brand new cars as a lot of colors are "painted" onto the leather instead of dyed. Despite what people say about not needing a conditioner for the leather because of the urethane coating, you still do now and again as the urethane forms micro-cracks and the stitching are all areas where the leather will dry out.
Lexol Leather Cleaner and Wolfgang Leather Conditioner:
Cleaner is mild, and recommended by detailers for lightly soiled leather. Heavily soiled leather requires a multi-step process. The Wolfgang conditioner is water-based (recommended for new leathers with urethane coatings).
Silicone Grease for Rubber Seals:
I apply a grease to the door/hood/trunk rubber seals twice a year. a very thin coat and rub it into the rubber, then wipe the excess off, and that tube will also last a lifetime.
Wouldn't recommend using olive oil on leather in your car. No UV protection.
All that said, I never used anything but a damp microfiber rag on my steering wheel, and even with a sunshade, the leather cracked due to the excessive heat we had in July and August this year and they replaced the steering wheel under warranty. I'll be conditioning it in the future. No urethane coating on the steering wheel. My only issue is I love the almost powdery-supple feeling of the leather just as it is, which is why I never bothered with conditioning it before.
Last edited by CriticalmassGT; Sep 12, 2016 at 04:55 PM.





























