I've replaced the nylon gears about 3-4 times during the last year or so after many years of good service on the original. The later changeouts seem to be related to the motor working loose, which I believe I have fixed by putting the tabs in a vise and forcing in, then putting a hose clamp to prevent the tabs from springing back out. The motor to gearbox connection shows no play.

I only have about 1/3 engagement between worm gear and plastic gear. The last bad nylon gear showed only minimal wear on the contact area, but it did the machine gun sound on turning off lights. There is a good 1/4" play in motor shaft in and out and also a good 1/8" play in plastic driven gear shaft in and out. I can push worm gear end toward plastic gear and double the engagement.

Next time it goes, I could put a urethane bushing on shaft end to force worm gear closer to plastic gear. I could also incorporate a end play bushing to minimize in and out play of the motor.

Or, just buy a rebuilt assembly....

Thoughts anyone?

Ideas anyone?

 

Why not just buy a complete brass kit with reinforcing side brace and new internal rubber bumper and avoid having to do all this every 3 months or so?

You would need a kit like this one (pay attention because there are 2 different kits: one for "97 to early 2000" and another for "late 2000 to 2004"). You'll save money and they will last forever

You might need these as well (the rubber bump stops).

There is a TSB, that calls for shimming the driver's side motor. The parts needed for this are included in the above mentioned kit.

 

Thanks for notes, I had looked at them previously. I have had zero problems with gearbox coming apart or loose, and as stated, my problem seems to be gear to gear engagement. If I put all these upgraded parts in, I still will have only 1/3 tooth engagement, right? So other than brass gears which won't strip as easy, will this cure my worm gear engagement situation? My nylon gear damage is centered and quite hard to detect. My engagement is nothing like that pictured on that website...

 

For 45 bucks you can get the kit to repair it or for a little over a hundred bucks you can get a complete rebuilt assembly with warranty from Amazon.

 

NAPA website lists about a dozen new and rebuilt units from $74 on up. Problem is, they are often out of stock or unavailable at source.

At least I'm getting much more proficient on changeouts even though it kills my bad back/neck....
Almost makes me want to trade in my C5 Z06 for a newer car. My 60 sure doesn't have this problem...

 

Rock Auto has Cardone reman units in stock for 78 bucks plus $25 core charge. Just checked. They also have new units for a lot more.

 

Tried various methods, but could not find headlamp motors on their site. It is not very friendly, no easy place to enter what you want. And I do a lot of business with them, great rates and deliveries..

 

Under "Body"

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/c...og%2Fchevrolet

 

duh, thanks!!!!!!

We'll see how long this one lasts. In meantime, I bought a spare gear plus you can always swap them 180.

 

I didn't find it on the first try either.

 

I've got over 200K on my OE headlight motors, with OE nylon gears. Due to the well known potential issues that may come up, I've made it a practice to include lubricating/oiling all linkage pivot points at least once a year on my preventive maintenance schedule.

HTH

 

When I had pop-up headlights I did the Rodney Dickman brass gear upgrade and never had another headlight issue.

 

cheapest rock auto rebuilt is now $122.......bummer.

This all started with an apparent bad contact, nothing at all happened on left side while right side popped up. No inkling of trying to work. All contacts up front look good.

If anybody has a good unit, how much play is there in motor thrust and also driven gear shaft? I've got 1/8 to 1/4" inch on mine, probably due to lack of gear engagement in part.

 

Used it about six times, and then heard the dreaded sound.

Tried to find the headlamp motor on rock auto, all it listed was headlamp assemblies. *&((**&((* under body.
So, went back and used the links provided by JR-01 and it was there!!!!!

This forum is great. Have a new assembly on way for $94.

Along with 2 sets of quality wiper blades at low cost.

 

Got new drivers side motor installed, checked it out and immediately the passenger side started the dreaded noise.
So, waited a day or so until my blood level came back and put a new gear on the right side. Tightened up motor tabs at same time. The right side motor/gear engagement was about three times that of the problematic right side. Why, I don't know.

I always had problems getting it timed correctly with the linkage despite being close, but not exactly correct. If you note how the short arm moves and hits the two nylon stop blocks, it will assist in making the final arm connection.

Looking forward to another 10 years of trouble free operation now....

 

I replaced nylon gears which failed in just a few months. Then I ordered some brass gears off eBay. Around 50 bucks for the pair if I recall. Two years now and no problems.