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Water Pump PLUS??

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Old Oct 21, 2016 | 05:42 PM
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Default Water Pump PLUS??

Had back surgery four weeks ago and can't get under so having someone I trust help out. I ordered AC Delco 252-846 water pump which needs to be changed. What else should I go ahead and have replaced while doing this? Do I absolutely need to go ahead and replace thermostat? Anyone have exact OEM part # for that? Anything else? Thanks.
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Old Oct 21, 2016 | 07:57 PM
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Hope your surgery went well and you are recovering well. I would suggest replacing the T-stat, timing chain and gasket, belts and possibly the tensioner and belt pullies if they have even the slightest resistance or noise. And I would flush the cooling system and clean the radiator thoroughly. I'm sure I've forgotten something and having said what I have it is VERY easy for me to spend your money from here. Have a look at the parts and make a judgment about condition. Good luck and speedy recovery.
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Old Oct 21, 2016 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Paul Wood
Hope your surgery went well and you are recovering well. I would suggest replacing the T-stat, timing chain and gasket, belts and possibly the tensioner and belt pullies if they have even the slightest resistance or noise. And I would flush the cooling system and clean the radiator thoroughly. I'm sure I've forgotten something and having said what I have it is VERY easy for me to spend your money from here. Have a look at the parts and make a judgment about condition. Good luck and speedy recovery.
Okay...yeah, L5 laminectomy - fun. Thanks for recommends.

Anyone know the ideal OEM or better thermostat? I think this is what I need ACDelco 12T121D, RIGHT?

And do I REALLY need this: ACDelco 15-11057 GM Original Equipment Engine Coolant Thermostat Water Inlet Assembly

Last edited by Artizan; Oct 21, 2016 at 09:45 PM.
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Old Oct 21, 2016 | 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Paul Wood View Post
Hope your surgery went well and you are recovering well. I would suggest replacing the T-stat, timing chain and gasket, belts and possibly the tensioner and belt pullies if they have even the slightest resistance or noise. And I would flush the cooling system and clean the radiator thoroughly. I'm sure I've forgotten something and having said what I have it is VERY easy for me to spend your money from here. Have a look at the parts and make a judgment about condition. Good luck and speedy recovery.




I would also consider the balancer if it shows signs of wobble. Oil pump, if changing the timing chain. This is a lot of work and money and only you can make that decision.





This is the part number for the thermostat I used on my 2001 AC Delco 15-10412.

Good luck with your repair.

Last edited by zachaeous; Oct 21, 2016 at 09:52 PM.
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Old Oct 21, 2016 | 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Artizan
Okay...yeah, L5 laminectomy - fun. Thanks for recommends.
Had L4/L5 a few years ago. Still not fun bending over working on the car. No way you want to do that water pump on your own. Good thing you've got someone to do this for ya.

Anyone know the ideal OEM or better thermostat? I think this is what I need ACDelco 12T121D, RIGHT?
Probably not something I'd hold out for any particular brand, but can't fault you wanting delco parts.

And do I REALLY need this: ACDelco 15-11057 GM Original Equipment Engine Coolant Thermostat Water Inlet Assembly
Ya know, most will probably say no, but I have to tell ya, I pulled my water pump and replaced it FOR that part. Didn't realize it was the issue, but the thing had like grown crystals under the hose and THAT was what was leaking. Who'da guessed. I already had the new pump in hand and figured with 100k miles, just install it. But cleaning that part off is what made the leak stop. After a year and a half it did it again. Then I put a new one on. I can't say it's stopped cause I simply have not had enough time with the car together to know. But it was sorta corroded from those crystals. It was like salt crystals growing in there but they actually pushed the hose far enough away to make it leak. Same thing happened on my truck. Who knew.
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Old Oct 22, 2016 | 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Paul Wood
Hope your surgery went well and you are recovering well. I would suggest replacing the T-stat, timing chain and gasket, belts and possibly the tensioner and belt pullies if they have even the slightest resistance or noise. And I would flush the cooling system and clean the radiator thoroughly. I'm sure I've forgotten something and having said what I have it is VERY easy for me to spend your money from here. Have a look at the parts and make a judgment about condition. Good luck and speedy recovery.
The timing chain, while simply "in there" to replace the water pump....are you SERIOUS?????


Accessing the timing chain is a LOT of work, not something you'd do "just because". This ain't no "good old small block Chevy in a C-3 chassis" you're talking about!!
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Old Oct 22, 2016 | 10:01 AM
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^^^ I saw that too but didn't bother to point it out. I'm pretty sure our disabled OP isn't gonna be dropping the cradle, pulling the balancer, removing the steering rack and removing the front cover just for chit and giggles. Might be adding 12 hours to the water pump job.
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Old Oct 22, 2016 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by K-Spaz
^^^ I saw that too but didn't bother to point it out. I'm pretty sure our disabled OP isn't gonna be dropping the cradle, pulling the balancer, removing the steering rack and removing the front cover just for chit and giggles. Might be adding 12 hours to the water pump job.


Since I'm retired, therefore have time on my hands, when I heard about the potential issues with the "wobbly balancers", I immediately said, "Not on my car"!

So, I bought an ATI balancer, and their pinning kit. At that point, yeah, I also thought "while I'm in there", but having the rack out, and the balancer off, was 60% of the battle. So yes, I pulled the water pump and front cover off, then the oil pump, and replaced the timing chain. I will say this, though, the work room is a little cramped, so even the water pump removal wasn't a 5 minute job, like it would be on an older Chevy......
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Old Oct 22, 2016 | 01:03 PM
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The OP didn't mention the year or the mileage of his car, but I would suggest replacing both radiator hoses. Also inspect the hoses that attach to the pressure tank to make sure they are in good shape. Also inspect the radiator and A/C condensor for dirt and debris. Check the pressure cap for any indication of wear around the seal. Replace if needed.

It can't hurt to remove and inspect the thermostat housing; have there been any problems with cooling temps, not warming up fast enough or even too fast? And once all the parts are back in place, do a coolant service. Drain all the coolant and refill with a 50-50 mix of Dex-Cool and water.
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Old Oct 22, 2016 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4


Since I'm retired, therefore have time on my hands, when I heard about the potential issues with the "wobbly balancers", I immediately said, "Not on my car"!

So, I bought an ATI balancer, and their pinning kit. At that point, yeah, I also thought "while I'm in there", but having the rack out, and the balancer off, was 60% of the battle. So yes, I pulled the water pump and front cover off, then the oil pump, and replaced the timing chain. I will say this, though, the work room is a little cramped, so even the water pump removal wasn't a 5 minute job, like it would be on an older Chevy......
When I did my balancer in the car, I ended up taking the hood off to be able to get a big enough pipe in there to remove the crank bolt. 2 different made in the USA 3/4" impact wrenches would not remove it.

That sob was on there.
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Old Oct 23, 2016 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by K-Spaz
When I did my balancer in the car, I ended up taking the hood off to be able to get a big enough pipe in there to remove the crank bolt. 2 different made in the USA 3/4" impact wrenches would not remove it.

That sob was on there.
I didn't have that much trouble with mine. A "back in the good old days, made in the USA" Craftsman breaker bar, and a 6 point socket got it done. Applying the 237 ft/lbs. of torque, to tighten the ARP bolt, was a challenge, however.....
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