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First off - I just want to say that it's a pleasure to be here. I've wanted a Vette for as long as I can remember, and recently purchased my 03' Mill Yellow Coupe this past July and absolutely love it. I've read the beginners guide - "sticky" threads and have done some research, but couldn't find the answer I was looking for so I decided to post my question. Everyone on here seems to be very cool and extremely knowledgeable, so here's what I know about the car:
Carfax checked out clean. I purchased the car with 39k miles, mainly driven in Florida. I live in Ohio.
The Mod's I'm aware of:
- Headers/Not sure of the manufacturer, I just know they are not stock.
- H-Pipe, to a Corsa Exhaust. Not exactly sure of the exact type, i.e. Extreme, etc...
- 180* Thermostat
- I think it has a cam. Not certain about this, just assuming it may based on how the car idles.
So my question to the thread is this: When I start the car, it seems to idle rather erratically - almost like it has a difficult time regulating the air/fuel mixture. During the hot/humid days, it actually has stalled. After about 10 seconds, it seems to find the sweet spot and idles just fine. It only does this after being started "hot". If I start it after it's been sitting, or "Cold", there is no idle issue. To me, it seems like there is an incorrect air/fuel mixture, but that's just a guess and the CPU is having to adjust accordingly. Has anyone ever encountered this? Is this norm after starting the car up again after it's been at the normal operating temperature? Any help/advice would be appreciated. Thanks for the read!
I'm with IMXCITED, I'd get to a good recommended tuner and get it on a dyno w/a puter. Amazing what can be found and done by a knowledgeable tuner with a laptop and a dyno. Good luck!!
Welcome to the forum and congrats on your "new" Corvette. Concur with all above, check for codes and post them, and also give us an idea where your located in Ohio so anyone close can recommend local tuners. Put that C5 in the garage it's getting cold out there.
Hahahaha No worries - the stripes are temporary, just experimenting with some different colors, etc... I work for a company that makes a good portion of all of the vehicle wrap graphics that you've probably seen at SEMA shows, so I'm fortunate enough to get my hands on just about anything.
And thanks for the advice, everyone. Definitely plan on getting it tuned come spring. She is currently tucked away in my garage for the winter. Currently have 2 feet of snow on the ground, with another 1-2 feet on the way. Ohio blows. lol
Any time a car has problems with misses etc, it is always a good idea to start with the basics.
1.call up and read/decypher the codes.
2 check the plugs and wires. It is not unusual to find a plug wire is not tight on the plug.
3 each cylinder as it's own coil, the DIC will tell you if you are actually getting a misfire.
Hahahaha No worries - the stripes are temporary, just experimenting with some different colors, etc... I work for a company that makes a good portion of all of the vehicle wrap graphics that you've probably seen at SEMA shows, so I'm fortunate enough to get my hands on just about anything.
And thanks for the advice, everyone. Definitely plan on getting it tuned come spring. She is currently tucked away in my garage for the winter. Currently have 2 feet of snow on the ground, with another 1-2 feet on the way. Ohio blows. lol
My opinion is that when it comes to C5s and graphics, less is more. Again, just my opinion.
It doesn't idle correctly at times. That could be a lot of things. Before I went throwing money at a tune/tuner, I'd make certain there weren't vacuum leaks or problems with air entering the intake w/o being sensed by the MAF, or the possibility that the IAT sensor is getting heat soaked because of the palcement in the system, or a cracked insulator on a plug, or a plug wire at either the coil or spark plug, or loose intake bolts, or TB bolts, or the wrong plugs or a bad plug.
And if you do have an aftermarket camshaft and the idle parameters are the problem, you don't need someone with a dyno to fix that, you need someone that understands how the idle parameters work on your OS and to do a street tune. Any monkey can spin a car up on a dyno and get the fueling right at WOT. It takes something of an artist to make it all work at idle with lower engine vacuum at idle and the reversion that accompanies increased overlap on aftermarket cams.
It doesn't idle correctly at times. That could be a lot of things. Before I went throwing money at a tune/tuner, I'd make certain there weren't vacuum leaks or problems with air entering the intake w/o being sensed by the MAF, or the possibility that the IAT sensor is getting heat soaked because of the palcement in the system, or a cracked insulator on a plug, or a plug wire at either the coil or spark plug, or loose intake bolts, or TB bolts, or the wrong plugs or a bad plug.
And if you do have an aftermarket camshaft and the idle parameters are the problem, you don't need someone with a dyno to fix that, you need someone that understands how the idle parameters work on your OS and to do a street tune. Any monkey can spin a car up on a dyno and get the fueling right at WOT. It takes something of an artist to make it all work at idle with lower engine vacuum at idle and the reversion that accompanies increased overlap on aftermarket cams.
Dyno schmyno.
Thanks for the advice! And thanks to everyone who chimed in!