Hello, new to the board and looking forward to participating in it in the future. I have an issue with a non functioning horn, below is my story:

Bought the car used from a small dealer 1 1/2 years ago with 29k miles, currently has 38k miles. Its a 2004 convertible base model. Ever since I had it, the horn sounded funny which turned out to be that only one of the 2 were sounding.

So about a month ago, the horn just stopped working. Does not work from steering wheel, FOB locking the car nor the panic button, just dead.

Read up on the forum(s), youtube and anywhere else that I could find and based on that, i thought it was the membrane that is common on these cars. Before i went that route, I decided to do some testing and here is what I have found out so far:

- replaced the horn with a known good one and still no sound.
- replaced the relay and still no sound.
- replaced the 20 amp fuse and still no sound.
- bypassed the fuse with a jumper and still no sound.
- when pushing on the steering wheel, you can hear the relay firing off.
- when pushing on the steering column, I verified that there was 12v on the horn fuse right next to the relay.
- I verified that at the plug at the horn was not receiving any power when the horn was pushed at the wheel.
- I sanded the mounting bracket to ensure a good connection for ground before reinstalling the horn, still no sound.
- I added a short 10 gauge wire to the mounting bolt of the horn and grounded it to another bolt to ensure proper grounding, still no sound.

So here I am, I am assuming that the membrane is ok since it is setting off the relay and there is no problem in the steering column as described in the other threads on this board. My assumption is that there is a problem with the wire going from the fuse box to the horn itself. I tried to pull the fuse box up but it only move about 1/2 inch before i felt resistance so i gave up at this point.

Has anyone seen these symptoms and what are my options? Any insights will help. Never figured that not having a horn would be dangerous.

Thanks in advance!

Robert

 

If you put 12v direct from battery does it sound? If so, the relay would be my first suspect.
You say you hear the relay click when you push steering column, but have you verified 12v makes it to the horn? Good luck.

 

Rebel, yes, the horn will sound when 12v applied directly to the horn connector. 12v is not making it to the horn but ther is 12v on the back side of the 20 amp fuse when i push the horn on the steering wheel. Its just not getting to the horn.

 

Try disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes.

 

At the relay you should have one 12v always hot. Another 12v switched hot by steering column. If you have this then problem is the relay or wiring from relay to horn.

 

Just went through this with my '99. It had gotten where it would work sometimes, sometimes not and then quit altogether. Took it to the shop and it turned out it had to do with a damaged clock spring in the steering column, somehow not allowing power to the horn. Spring was repaired and horn function was restored. I can't give you more info than that, I'm certainly no tech, but the shop stated that was the issue. I know its not much in the way of details but it might give you something to take a look at. Good luck and best wishes!

 

Tried this last night and no joy. I did learn how to reactivate my radio though...lol

 

That may be my last option. Thanks!

 

Thanks for your insights. How challenging is it to bypass the factory wiring and add a new one? I tried to get the fuse box top out of its box but couldnt get it more than 1 inch up.

 

Ok, Friou back again. Dug out my receipt on my horn repair that I referred to in an earlier post regarding your horn issue. I had said "clock spring " mechanism problem. In reviewing the receipt, it appears I was somewhat off. I will quote from my repair receipt: "horn inop due to slip ring and cancel cam had short, replace slip ring and install all parts, ok horn works when tested". So, somewhat more detailed and more accurate info for you. Looking at the wiring diagram provided by 8vettez you can see that power is routed through that slip ring. Anyway, sorry to have earlier provided some info that was off, hope this new/updated info proves useful to you. Best wishes and Merry Christmas/Happy Holidays!

 

Thanks, in my initial conversation with the techs they referred to "a defective clock spring" hence my original post. But on checking the receipt found the language change to "slip ring". Initially the dealership said a new "clock spring" would run around $550.00. Then they added that my old (perfectly intact) airbag would have to be replaced by a brand new airbag that would work with the new clockspring. Cost of new airbag quoted to to me was nearly $1000.00. So $1500.00 or so to repair a horn? At this point I lost my temper and began MF ing just about everything and everybody and told them they were crazy and that just plain didn't make a damn bit of sense. After a huge disagreement and me loudly making my displeasure known, a miracle occurred and I was advised that a repair could in fact be made for a small fraction on the original part and the $1500.00 clockspring/airbag would not be needed after all. Well, how 'bout that!! I'm definitely looking for another shop. Miracles are nice but I much rather prefer good old honesty and competence! Best wishes and Merry Christmas. Thanks again!

 

Took time off for the holidays and went back to troublshooting my horn issue today. I bought a bypass kit as you described and connected directly to new horn. No joy. I verified that there was power getting to the horn but still no sound. I know the horn is working from last time that i worked on it. Don't know if maybe there is not enough amperage getting to the horn or if there is something else that I am missing. I am baffled.