I'm taking this winter to replace the factory valve covers and replace with Proform units with the coils mounted up higher. I noticed on the driver's side something that I am unfamiliar with and wanted to know what it is. Car is a 2004 auto coupe and below is the part I'm trying to identify. I'm thinking part of the evap system for emissions. It connects to the intake just after the TB. It has a mounting tab to attach to intake that I don't think will work with the taller covers so I'll find a new way to secure it.



The other thing I am wondering is if anyone has peeled back the electrical tape for the coil harness and routed the main connector to connect closer to the firewall? Trying to hide as much as possible to get a clean look.

Last thing...any tricks to getting the oem injectors out of the fuel rail? I removed the clip that secured it, but it won't budge. I was afraid to use too much pressure if fear of damage. Got any tips?

 

your right the pic is part of the evap, as far as redoing the harness I wouldn't think it's a big deal. The injectors may have to twist back and forth maybe with a little WD or oil ??

 

Thanks Pounder.

 

BTY if the intake is staying on the engine make sure there is no dirt around the injectors, don't want that in the combustion chamber !!!

 

I relocated my coils (out of the engine bay entirely) and also relocated that evap solenoid as well. The wiring loom and electrical tape can definitely be removed.

I spent a weekend unwinding all the tape and routed each injector wire towards its own injector (when stripped you'll see some of it is a jumble) and wrapped the wires thin and they are hidden under the fuel rail. You can't see the injector wires on my engine.

To remove each injector from the rail twist/rotate each injector to help break the bond between the metal and o-ring. A shot of WD-40 helps too.

 

 

Josh: How did you relocate the evap solenoid. I've read others have removed it, but I have emissions testing to deal with. Plan is for a tune in the spring, can it be tuned out? If you kept yours and just relocated it, do you have a write up on it?

 

my evap solenoid is removed and yes it can be tuned out to pass emissions... I capped off the intake and left the line open at the firewall and haven't had any issues

 

There was no write up, I just did it as I went along.
I have hptuners (that laptop crashed an haven't bothered to redownload) so not sure if tuning the code out was/is available.

The reason I went through the effort to relocate is that the engine project took almost two years. I didn't want to yank stuff and hope for the best when I went to start the car. I kept everything complete and functional (even the PCV which you can't see on the passenger side as its been reworked also. The only thing deleted was the air/smog valves on the exhaust manifolds. I wanted the engine to look like it was sitting there with no wiring connected. Clean.

On the evap I used fuel hose available at the parts store and the electrical connector I made a new harness by ordering the connectors from Delco and some wires. I took pictures of the connectors and had a catalogue online an went through hundreds (I can find a link to the catalogue and PM in a day or two, its at work and I'm not there) of pictures until I found them. That project took two weeks all together finding everything and waiting on shipping. Never had a code for anything to do with evap so that's proof you can do it too. Another easier option is to simply (gulp) cut the harness going to the evap and solder/splice a longer section of wiring allowing you to relocate. If you do a clean job and reloom you'll never know the difference compared to making a jumper harness.

The coil pack relocation harnesses (2 of them) were bought through Summit I think they were around $55 each at the time. I made new plug wires. The coils are relocated between the inner fender and outer fender. Out of the elements and out of sight. There's a write up on that floating around somewhere.

 

I'd assume I'll show a CE light going this route until tuned out? Not a big deal and easily reversible should I need to.

 

Thanks. Not keen on cutting the harness or trusting myself to make a new connector.

As for the coils themselves, for now I'm ok with them up top. I do have longer wires that I will be making, but not ready to move to the fenders just yet.

 

yeah it will probably throw a code until you have it tuned out but I don't think it will make the car run any differently, all that solenoid does is pull fuel vapors from the tank under certain conditions and route them back into the intake to reduce emissions

 

LS9 coils mount direct to LS9 valve covers and sold together as a conversion kit by Scoggins Dickey for a clean look on LS1/LS6. The LS9 coils are black but can be painted to suit your tastes. You could paint the LS9 valve colors black crinkle or other as well. Below is an old thread on LS1Tech where this is discussed and PN's provided.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/generation...ve-covers.html

 

Thanks but in my original post I commented that I already have Proform covers. Not interested in going to LS9's. My Proform's are also black crinkle finish.

 

I thought I had all the parts I needed to finish this project, but just realized I am missing a 45 and 180 degree fitting for the rear line. I'm following Toque's site for install pointers and failed to notice these specific fittings.

He didn't mention part numbers for these, so I found some Aeromotive part numbers online (was hoping to find locally), but not sure if the 180 is correct. Seems to only be for a -8an line with swivel for connection back to the factory line at the firewall. I'm using -6an line included in the Holley EFI kit.

Part numbers are 15651 for the 45 degree -6AN and 15663 for the 180 degree swivel unit.

Can anyone confirm or provide correct part numbers, Aeromotive or Russell brand, or other brands that are quality units.

 

if you don't already have one you will need an adapter fitting that snaps onto the stock feed line at the firewall and converts to -an on the other end so your fitting will screw onto it... a few years ago I used a 180 degree fitting off the stock feed line to a 45 degree fitting behind the passenger rail, crossed them over in the front, and plugged the driver side rail at the rear... I'm not familiar with how the holley premade setup is so what I did might be different than what you're doing... personally I prefer redhorse performance fittings, those are the only kind I use from now on unless there is something specific that I need and they don't make it... the finish on them holds up the best out of all the ones I have used, they are not as expensive as some of the others on the market, and if you get the swivel fittings those have a double viton o-ring seal so there is less chance of leakage over the years (most other brands I have used only have a single o-ring)

 

Yes, I have the adapter fitting. Toque had used a -6AN to 3/8" quick disconnect which I ordered. Just need the 45 and 180 now. I wonder if he used the -8 AN adapter in the holley kit to use the 180 I found online. I'll have to look at his pictures again closer.

And yes, going with two 90's in the front as my crossover, and capping the rear driver's side.

 

if the kit came with a -8 adapter you can use that as well and run a -8 feed line instead of -6... either one will work and both are capable of supplying enough fuel, I think most if not all of the aftermarket rails use -8orb fittings on both ends as well

 

Neutron: Thanks for suggesting Redhorse Performance. I looked them up and it turns out their warehouse was practically in my backyard. I was able to do a will call and pick up the needed fittings in person, saving me the shipping and they were less than other brands too.

Got what I needed today and will proceed with the project at my convenience.

 

wow that's crazy, I never would have thought they were right in your area!