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99 C5 Vert. I have no history on the car - for all I know original shocks.
I notice the car bouncing and swaying more and more so I am thinking time to replace suspension. Are there shocks all the way around or shocks and struts?
I see most prefer the Bilsteins - don't need high performance. Looking at their web site I have no idea what to choose.
I am pretty handy with a wrench - can I install these myself without a lift?
Your car has four shocks, BUTT, does the car have Active Handling ??? then if it does you will have a bit more to do than with standard shocks. You should find out what options your car has then repost that info !!
You have sway bars to control the roll, you have monoleaf springs to support the weight of the car, you have shocks to dampen the ride. there is an F-45 adjustable suspension with select ride and standard or Z06 shocks for a more controlled but harsher ride. Replacing the F45 select ride takes a few more steps to accomplish.
The standard GM shocks are very good, and can easily see 100,000 miles.
If you do not have select ride, you can replace your shock your self, if you are talented. Not a big deal to many but to some it would be brain surgery. You can buy OEM shocks for a nice controlled ride, or buy Z06 shocks for a slightly more aggressive ride .. Gm shocks are very good no need to get an after market brand unless you just want some bragging rights.
Last edited by Evil-Twin; Dec 31, 2016 at 10:27 PM.
I swapped out all four of my shocks myself with Bilstein HD's (for every day street use) using the "Zip-Tie"method in another thread on this site, one wheel at a time just jacking at the corresponding rocker-panel lift points. You will need a second small jack most likely to compress the lower A-Arms.
You might consider purchasing new REAR LOWER shock fastening bolts and nuts as they are really designed to be torqued to spec only once. Both of my lower bolts stretched and broke in the middle before reaching the specified torque value. Installed new bolts and nuts as recommended and no problems.
I swapped out all four of my shocks myself with Bilstein HD's (for every day street use) using the "Zip-Tie"method in another thread on this site, one wheel at a time just jacking at the corresponding rocker-panel lift points. You will need a second small jack most likely to compress the lower A-Arms.
You might consider purchasing new lower shock fastening bolts and nuts as they are really designed to be torqued to spec only once. Both of my lower bolts stretched and broke in the middle before reaching the specified torque value. Installed new bolts and nuts as recommended and no problems.
How many miles on that 99 Vert? I wonder if you have the soft ride version of the C5 suspension. My 99 FRC suspension has zero bounce or sway with miles in the mid 70k.
How many miles on that 99 Vert? I wonder if you have the soft ride version of the C5 suspension. My 99 FRC suspension has zero bounce or sway with miles in the mid 70k.
I had a similar situation with the 78k mile 2000 FRC I purchased earlier this year. The body felt disconnected from the chassis with a decent bit of sway. I purchased this set of Bilsteins from forum vendor Corvette Central, and it fixed the looseness right up. The ride and handling is much improved from stock.
I received an email from them earlier in the week, and see they have free shipping through midnight tonight. Hard to beat a set of new Bilsteins for $320.
As one other poster mentioned, the shock bolts are a one time use fastener. I bought new bolts and nuts from my local Chevy dealer for $11. The swap was easy - doubt you'll have any problems replacing them.
Also be aware Chevy released a bulletin lowering the rear lower shock bolt torque value to 107 ft/lb. The service manual states 162 ft/lbs, and many have broken bolts attempting to achieve that number.
I am just now learning about the lower rear shock bolts, interesting. I have a set of LG GT2 coil overs to install when time allows. Since one could possibly expect to R&R the lower bolts numerous times to achieve the desired right height it seems to me I would need something like an ARP bolt that could be torqued numerous times. This thought being based on my understanding that ride height is adjusted by threading the lower mount up or down on the shock body and that would require removing the lower bolt to turn the lower housing. Does this all sound correct? I cannot remember any discussion about the lower bolts in any threads about coil overs???
Never seen coilovers that required shock bolt removal to make adjustments. The last set I had you just unloaded the suspension by jacking the car and rotated the adjusting/locking rings to the desired position. Keep the rings well lubricated with grease or anti seize and it won't be a problem.
I am just now learning about the lower rear shock bolts, interesting. I have a set of LG GT2 coil overs to install when time allows. Since one could possibly expect to R&R the lower bolts numerous times to achieve the desired right height it seems to me I would need something like an ARP bolt that could be torqued numerous times. This thought being based on my understanding that ride height is adjusted by threading the lower mount up or down on the shock body and that would require removing the lower bolt to turn the lower housing. Does this all sound correct? I cannot remember any discussion about the lower bolts in any threads about coil overs???
You should not have to remove the lower bolt to adjust ride height. That is accomplished using the locking collars I believe. At least that is how it is on my Stance coilovers. Maybe LG can chime in here.
99 C5 Vert. I have no history on the car - for all I know original shocks.
I notice the car bouncing and swaying more and more so I am thinking time to replace suspension. Are there shocks all the way around or shocks and struts?
I see most prefer the Bilsteins - don't need high performance. Looking at their web site I have no idea what to choose.
I am pretty handy with a wrench - can I install these myself without a lift?
Thanks and Happy New Year!
I have a 2000 hardtop that I installed Bilstein's on at about 35K, 10 years ago. I had absolutely no complaints with the stock shocks, but I do like Bilsteins and I was planning to autocross it.
You haven't said how many miles are on your '99?
Since I couldn't bring myself to throw away the stock shocks I took off, you are welcome to them if you want them. Just send a PM.
OP here - car has 58K. Getting mushy and bouncy - does not feel like when I got it at 44K. I have active suspension. Is this the right Bilstein? There website suck for picking a part number. Looks like I can install these myself.
OP here - car has 58K. Getting mushy and bouncy - does not feel like when I got it at 44K. I have active suspension. Is this the right Bilstein? There website suck for picking a part number. Looks like I can install these myself.
from using the Google looks like these are less than OEM.
Looking at the Bilstein website, if I am interpreting it correctly:
Front HD is Part Number: 24-029759
Series: B6 Performance
Old Part Number: BE5-2975
Old Part Number: F4-BE5-2975-H1
Rear HD is Part Number 24-029766
Series: B6 Performance
Old Part Number: BE5-2976
Old Part Number: F4-BE5-2976-H1
If you want the stiffer "Sport" shocks, they are "B8 Performance Plus" apparently.
Not sure what you mean by "Active Suspension"? If you have "Magnetic Ride Suspension", then Bilsteins would not be the best choice as they defeat that feature and will throw codes.
Looking at the Bilstein website, if I am interpreting it correctly:
Front HD is Part Number: 24-029759
Series: B6 Performance
Old Part Number: BE5-2975
Old Part Number: F4-BE5-2975-H1
Rear HD is Part Number 24-029766
Series: B6 Performance
Old Part Number: BE5-2976
Old Part Number: F4-BE5-2976-H1
If you want the stiffer "Sport" shocks, they are "B8 Performance Plus" apparently.
Not sure what you mean by "Active Suspension"? If you have "Magnetic Ride Suspension", then Bilsteins would not be the best choice as they defeat that feature and will throw codes.
Those are the correct Bilsteins(Heavy Duty's) shocks for your car.
These will not be an issue with your Active Handling System(JL4), but if you have the Selective Real Time Dampening (F45) option, you will have to either program the system out or deal with the codes that result when the computer is no longer receiving input from the electronic shocks.