When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I tried this in the Tech section but didn't get many responses. I just installed my Vararam without the power duct. The MAF is contacting the liner where it connects to the air bridge. Because the Vararam filter box is contacting the shroud, I cannot get the air bridge push pins in completely so the bridge sits flat on the radiator bracket. Is this normal? Has anyone else experienced this and if so, were you able to fix it.
I had similar experience with fit, so much that I returned it and went to a BlackWing CAI. I also cut the fog lamp shrouds and put a mesh screen over it so the BlackWing gets air from front like the VARARAM.
You are not alone in this issue, the vara ram is the best CAI out there but fitment is a bear...Lots of people complain about instalation issues...that's the only reason I don't have one on my car.
I moved the MAP next to the throttle body and also went with the power duck, mostly for fitment issues. Sorry I don't have better pic's, anyway moved the map as close to the throttle body as I could using two different size tubing 3/12 & 4 then used a longer tube for the filter housing.
I also installed the Vararam intake and power duct and for some reason the fit was so bad I removed it and sent it back. I see why this could be a really good intake but fitment on my vehicle was terrible and I went back to my Hurricane intake instead.
Since the install seems to be a nightmare, why not just upgrade to a Callaway Honker? From what I understand, the Honker is a relatively painless install, right? A little more money and from what I hear, a better product for just a little more money.
the vararam works great with the vararam power duct in place. I too had the stock air bridge that was lifting and just replaced with a vararam power duct and all is well.
I have been running my VeraRam for 2 years without the push pins and no problems. While my mileage was low in this time my driving was not. Almost 3000 miles of HPDE and autocrossing on the engine. This fall before putting it up for winter, I removed the air bridge (stock) for some MAF and TB cleaning and not a scratch on the radiator cover. The reason I did not put the push pins in is I lost them while installing the VeraRam--probably threw them away with the box. Since the VR airbridge would add nothing to a stock engine I never bought one. Then I tuned the car for autocross performance.
I moved the MAP next to the throttle body and also went with the power duck, mostly for fitment issues. Sorry I don't have better pic's, anyway moved the map as close to the throttle body as I could using two different size tubing 3/12 & 4 then used a longer tube for the filter housing.
You might want to look into relocating that MAF. You never want to place a MAF directly in front of the throttle body due to backwash/turbulence. Furthermore, it's going to transfer more ambient heat and affect the temp sensor.
Generally you want a straight shot before and after for the best sample, with at least 3" of measured volume and 6" on either side. I know this isn't a slot maf in all entirety as it has its own sample tube per say, but it's worth acknowledging. The least disruption possible should always be used on a MAF driven car.
You might want to look into relocating that MAF. You never want to place a MAF directly in front of the throttle body due to backwash/turbulence. Furthermore, it's going to transfer more ambient heat and affect the temp sensor.
Generally you want a straight shot before and after for the best sample, with at least 3" of measured volume and 6" on either side. I know this isn't a slot maf in all entirety as it has its own sample tube per say, but it's worth acknowledging. The least disruption possible should always be used on a MAF driven car.
Huh, ECS didn't mention anything when I gave them my info for a tune ??? It runs fantastic ??? Thanks, I will do some research !!
The location of the MAF has been discussed quite extensively. I talked with Vararam (at Carlisle) and Chuck of COW before I did my install. I ended up installing the MAF in the original factory position. When I bought the car it had the dual K&N cone filters with the MAF up by the throttle body - the car was kind of a dog. After the install with a COW tune the car runs great. (I credit the tune for most of the improvement).
The 2001 I previously owned with Vararam was also had the MAF in the factory position - no issues.
The location of the MAF has been discussed quite extensively. I talked with Vararam (at Carlisle) and Chuck of COW before I did my install. I ended up installing the MAF in the original factory position. When I bought the car it had the dual K&N cone filters with the MAF up by the throttle body - the car was kind of a dog. After the install with a COW tune the car runs great. (I credit the tune for most of the improvement).
The 2001 I previously owned with Vararam was also had the MAF in the factory position - no issues.
Chuck are you saying I should not have the MAP next to the throttle body ???? if I move it back to factory position will it require a re-tune ?? ( I would guess yes) Thank you, Paul /// bty it runs fantastic the way it is !!!
Chuck are you saying I should not have the MAP next to the throttle body ???? if I move it back to factory position will it require a re-tune ?? ( I would guess yes) Thank you, Paul /// bty it runs fantastic the way it is !!!
I would leave it alone, but when doing the installs over the years, we have determined that
having the MAF up front is better than in front of the TB.
No real change in power, but setting up the tune is much easier with the MAF forward the way GM had it.
Vararam
