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Old Jan 3, 2017 | 01:18 PM
  #21  
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The LS6 is tried and true and 450HP is easily obtainable without sacrificing low end torque. When you add a larger cam you will need stiffer springs to keep the valves from floating. LS6 springs cost about $60 and are good for about .570 lift. If you use a larger cam then you will need stiffer springs and they will be substantially more expensive. The larger cam may not like the stock converter as your engines torque will be higher in the RPM range. The cam ZEEVETTE mentions is a fairly mild upgrade. The 20 HP increase will be felt around 6000 RPM's and will cost some low end torque. Thus the need for the higher stall converter.

It seems like when you go much past 450 FWHP there are other parts that need to be beefed up. You may need larger injectors and fuel pump. The A4 trans is really being pushed at its limits and should be built up, etc...

There is always trade off and compromise like reliability, fuel consumption, and drivability. The compromises one is willing to live with might irritate the **** out of someone else.
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Old Jan 3, 2017 | 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob 02
The LS6 is tried and true and 450HP is easily obtainable without sacrificing low end torque. When you add a larger cam you will need stiffer springs to keep the valves from floating. LS6 springs cost about $60 and are good for about .570 lift. If you use a larger cam then you will need stiffer springs and they will be substantially more expensive. The larger cam may not like the stock converter as your engines torque will be higher in the RPM range. The cam ZEEVETTE mentions is a fairly mild upgrade. The 20 HP increase will be felt around 6000 RPM's and will cost some low end torque. Thus the need for the higher stall converter.

It seems like when you go much past 450 FWHP there are other parts that need to be beefed up. You may need larger injectors and fuel pump. The A4 trans is really being pushed at its limits and should be built up, etc...

There is always trade off and compromise like reliability, fuel consumption, and drivability. The compromises one is willing to live with might irritate the **** out of someone else.

The setup I described will be cheap, VERY effective and work with his gear, converter and drive like stock. It's a win/win/win. Car will be damn quick and surprise a lot of people. Open the hood after a stoplight *** kicking.....stock....wtf?
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Old Jan 3, 2017 | 01:51 PM
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^The only problem I am having with this set up is passing at 30mph. The trans down shifts it gets loud and the tires spin a little unintentionally. It slides a little sideways and I probably look like a maniac. I need to work on the shift points.
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Old Jan 3, 2017 | 05:23 PM
  #24  
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As you can see from all the posts, more HP is easy (maybe not cheap) but I would attend to your driveline before adding any. I don't have any experience with a A/T car, so beyond gears/stall, it's all news to me. Gotta say, a Corvette with a 4-spd AT seems weird to me. I know they are capable of being faster in a straight line, but geez, it's a Corvette!
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Old Jan 3, 2017 | 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by zeevette
As you can see from all the posts, more HP is easy (maybe not cheap) but I would attend to your driveline before adding any. I don't have any experience with a A/T car, so beyond gears/stall, it's all news to me. Gotta say, a Corvette with a 4-spd AT seems weird to me. I know they are capable of being faster in a straight line, but geez, it's a Corvette!
Got to be real careful with a 2.73 geared car, cams kill low end tq, converters in this car really are very sketchy.

You can really build a great sounding crappy driving dog of a car if you're not reallll careful.

If he builds the car is described, that beotch will RUN from a roll.

Last edited by FASTFATBOY; Jan 3, 2017 at 05:44 PM.
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Old Jan 3, 2017 | 11:12 PM
  #26  
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Stall, 3.42 gears, flip tie, headers, tune.

Low 12's.
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Old Jan 3, 2017 | 11:50 PM
  #27  
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Default Flip tie

Originally Posted by Roddy13
Stall, 3.42 gears, flip tie, headers, tune.

Low 12's.
What the heck is a FLIP TIE?
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Old Jan 3, 2017 | 11:53 PM
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The zip tie mod for the air box
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Old Jan 4, 2017 | 07:56 AM
  #29  
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^then you flip the air box over and cut a hole in the radiator shroud for a true cold air induction.

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Last edited by Rob 02; Jan 4, 2017 at 08:03 AM. Reason: immage
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Old Jan 4, 2017 | 10:46 AM
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I like that it also keeps the box from flopping around. When you just do the zip tie part it is not secure because the lid holds it in place
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Old Jan 5, 2017 | 12:15 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by FASTFATBOY
2002-2004 LS6 cam

243 or 799 heads

Z06 or truck 85MM MAF

Air intake(Vararam, Blackwing or the like)

1 3/4 headers

Catless X pipe

Z06 Ti catback

Tune

Car will drive like stock and make 100 more HP than stock.

With exception, forget 799 do the 243, and do a borla or Corsa catbacks
And lots of aftermarket cams that will perform better for a couple bucks more. BTW, getting the right tune once this is all installed is the most important item on the list. Good luck!
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Old Jan 5, 2017 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by S.C. vette

With exception, forget 799 do the 243, and do a borla or Corsa catbacks
And lots of aftermarket cams that will perform better for a couple bucks more. BTW, getting the right tune once this is all installed is the most important item on the list. Good luck!
799 and 243 head are identical.

Only "special" head is the 243 that came on 2002-2004 Z06, all the other 243 or 799 head is the same head.

Last edited by FASTFATBOY; Jan 5, 2017 at 01:07 PM.
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Old Jan 5, 2017 | 02:05 PM
  #33  
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When you decide on what upgrades your looking to do keep us in mind. We sell tons of mods for your vehicle. Just give us a call @443-730-9428! You can check out our current Holiday Sale linked below. (this will be taken off our site in the next day or two)

http://marylandspeed.com/holiday-i-24.html

But if you call us we can offer you a better deal!
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Old Jan 5, 2017 | 02:42 PM
  #34  
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I built the 2000 A4 coupe that I had. Vararam, ls6 intake, lg superpros with catted x pipe, Corsa sports, 227/231 cam, 3000 stall and dyno tune. Car only put 360 on the dyno but was fast as heck and had incredible street manners and sounded awesome. Tuner told me not to worry about the dyno number bc being an auto killed it but to worry more about actual driving. That car was fast!
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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 01:43 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by v8srfun
If you just bought the car I would drive it for about 2-3 months before I spent any money on mods. The reason I say that is you don't know the car that we'll yet and you never know what you will find out. You may find that there are a few maintenance items that need attention or maybe you decide you are happy with the power output but you want it to handle better.


You may well find you are happy with it the way it is...or you find you want something else first. Like lighting upgrades.

Thats my primary issue with the C5 right now - especially since the HIDs in the 7 have spoiled me....

Last edited by aj98; Jan 7, 2017 at 01:52 PM.
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Old Jan 7, 2017 | 02:40 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by aj98


You may well find you are happy with it the way it is...or you find you want something else first. Like lighting upgrades.

Thats my primary issue with the C5 right now - especially since the HIDs in the 7 have spoiled me....
I have already purchased the conversion kit from OEM to HID and will replace them in the spring. This inquiry is for the performance enhancements.
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