phoneman91

Those standards and torque ratings are for dry unrusted or uncorroded threads that have been freshly machined--in a factory assembly environment.

I have noticed that in many cases--there is a range of torque for a given fastener and application. I always thought that the low end of this range was for used threads and threads that haven't been just machined. Am I incorrect in this belief?

Anti seize should only be used on fasteners that have torque ratings that include the lubricity of anti seize in the torque ratings ?

Do you use anti seize on your spark plugs on your C5? I assume that anti seize lubricity is included in the torque ratings. Are they?

o2bnkc

Just thought I'd throw this one out there. What if you have spinners on your c2? How do you measure torque on those?

phoneman91

Evil-Twin

You use a torque wench on a spinner socket.



Doesn't everyone have one of them for their Dayton wire wheels?

I know a lot of things because I have seen a lot of things.

phoneman91

You got me there,Bill !

o2bnkc

Me too!

momo20

Lug studs and nuts as well as lug bolts are designed with a specific grade of hardware with a certain amount of "stretch." Stretch? You might ask - Yes. Proper torque, which stretches the bolt, causes the threads of the stud/bolt to tightly mate and secure to the matching nut or threaded hole (within the axle or wheel hub) without working themselves loose. It's akin to mechanically securing the nut to the bolt - except that you can remove and re-tighten it repeatedly, as needed., yet, most bolt grades used for this purpose will retain its original size and properties (un-stretched) when properly torqued to specifications. The properties of the bolt has a slight spring affect when loosened.

Read more: The Importance of Torquing Lug Nuts / Lug Bolts http://www.roadkillcustoms.com/hot-r...#ixzz4Xt6Ij8Pe


when i just rebuilt my motor in my z06 i torqued everything down to the correct spec's sometimes where it req. several passe's at different setting's and some were inch pound's . at the end of the day every fastener on every car every bolt will have some sort of torque spec either in inch pound's to seat a gasket or foot pound's and one should really follow those spec's as they are there for a reason even something as simple as lug nuts, proper torque spec's are there for a reason!!!!

Evil-Twin

I already explained the science of torqueing a nut to a bolt ( lug nut to a stud )in Post #2

inch lbs is just a calculation of the force requires to lift one inch, as oppose to lift 1 ft... or 12 inch lbs equal 1 ft lbs.

laurent_zo6

I have no problem with a shop using an air impact wrench to remove the lug nuts but no way you are going to use the same impact wrench to tighten those lug nuts. One time. they were on so tight, I broke off the stem of one lug nut. That was back in my naive days.
Last installer wanted to charge me $5 extra per tire to torque lug nuts manually.
I brought my wheels to dealer and installed and torqued them myself back home.

runner140*

Way too important to "wing it"....I use a impact wrench set to 100 lbs.

Gordy M

For safety you should always torque the lug nuts, but you should also check the accuracy of your torque wrench. Every January I measure mineand note the difference. With several torque wrenches, it amazes me how much variance there from year to year. With my autocross/HPDE wheels I torque them to 95lbs-corrected since they may be on and off the car several times a week. In that time I have never seen the torque vary when I am ready to loosen them--Use a beam type to remove the lugs.

Evil-Twin

AS I have said, using a torque wrench is the right way. Those who claim to have many years of Dealership experience here, and they have "winged" it all their career, are the very people who I tell newbies to be very careful who you listen to here" on this forum. There are many self proclaimed legends in their own mind here, but in reality they are hacks who have winged it all of their life, and this is by their own admission, as if it was something to be proud of.

AS far a certifying a torque wrench. Its necessary to have it done for compliance sake in a manufacturing environment for legal reasons.
A home grown torque wrench will give you relative reading and could be off by + - 2 %. Since torque specs have a built in allowable variance of 5 %
a 100 Ft lbs torque would be within testing certification @ from 95 ft lbs to 105 ft lbs.

You home grown torque wrench will yield a relative and even torque across the bolt pattern. No need to have it certified. I have a State licensed bureau of standards and measure, five miles from my house. But I would not feel the need to have any of my measuring devices re certified. Mics, Calipers, gauge blocks, meters, etc.

Some times, people are too sensitive about things, and over think things... for most people they should enjoy their car more, and not over think things.. I know everyone want to do the right thing, well I should say Most people want to do the right thing. There is nothing wrong being a little OCD. But from my point of view. I would rather be OCD than a hack, or an uncaring " its good enough " enthusiast.

Others have a right to see things their own way..

Bill aka ET OCD. proud of it , all labels facing forward on my spice rack, my cubboard and in my refrigerator.

phoneman91

Since this thread has processed from just torquing lug nuts--how many of you guys torque your oil filter?

I do it--and have gotten beat up on other forums.

Evil-Twin

Nothing wrong with doing it.. But because there is a rubber gasket with a lot of available compression, the variance in the torque required is much more tolerable. Since you have to oil the gasket, chances of over torqueing are higher. Since the manufacturer recommends a simple 1/2 turn or 3/4 turn after seat contact, that is usually printed on the can.. It is all I do. and I am OCD.

as far as people laughing at you. The world is full of critics.
You only need to listen to the criticisms of those who you have learned to respect for their knowledge or insight. That's still doesn't mean you have to agree with them.

Bill aka ET.

runner140*

A little oil on the seal and hand tighten the filter.

skydiven4fun

I have always torqued lug nuts, after a quick pass around all four wheels bringing them close to their specified value I drive the car around the block and then go around and finish tightening to spec, after driving the car a few times I check em again to be safe.
Worth the peace of mind to me.

Evil-Twin

Anytime I remove a wheel, I use a torque wrench to re-install. But I also do Not return it to my tool box. I leave it out on my work bench. I leave it there until the next time I go our and come home.. I see it there as a reminder to recheck all 20. It takes 2 minutes..

Of the hundreds of times I've dome this over the years, I only had one issue ( one lug nut ) that I must have missed in the final run up. So by doing thousands and thousands of lug nuts to only have one require a re torque is a testament to following procedures.. but even with that ratio , I would never back off on my personal recheck procedure.. Once done that second time, I put my torque wrench back to bed.

JALLEN4

You describe a very common scenario played out in GM stores at the time. It was not simply a Chevrolet problem but other lines as well. I did at the time have factory engineers explain to me how the problem was on the dealer's end. They had no room for discussion about their design for the newer light weight rotors and any possibility they might have caused a problem. Certainly though none of this means I don't agree that wheels should be torqued.

v8srfun

This is a argument that will never be settled.


The proper way is to torque but the reality is that %90 of the vehicles out there on the road are torqued by feel and they are doing just fine. Like the engineer said everyone he tested over torqued so the possibility of a wheel falling of is quite slim. The worst case scenario is you may have to replace lugs and studs from thread damage

Black 03 Z06

So it is fact that the stud is stretching when it is tightened and therefore the lug nut will in theory hold everything tight. So what are the limits to that stretching of the lug? How many times can the cycle be repeated?

Also what do race teams do about torquing lug nuts? Are their pneumatic tools able to predetermine the proper setting. I would think a wheel on a car at running 200 mph would require some pretty precise torque settings to ensure no wobble.