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Bought it without working A/C, and after 5 years of driving finally got around to fixing it. Ended up being a leaking fitting on the evaporator core, but noticed metal shavings in the orifice tube so I know the compressor was toast as well. Replaced the whole system so I don't have to worry about shavings that may have made it elsewhere circulating around and trashing another compressor. Been a slow 2 week project so far, taking time to tune up and clean some parts, replacing all the tie rod ends, and put in C6 Z51 sways and end links. HVAC display is looking pretty rough (manual, not dual zone), the faceplate is severely worn all over. I think I have a fix for that in the works, if it goes well I'll post up soon.
Bought it without working A/C, and after 5 years of driving finally got around to fixing it. Ended up being a leaking fitting on the evaporator core, but noticed metal shavings in the orifice tube so I know the compressor was toast as well. Replaced the whole system so I don't have to worry about shavings that may have made it elsewhere circulating around and trashing another compressor. Been a slow 2 week project so far, taking time to tune up and clean some parts, replacing all the tie rod ends, and put in C6 Z51 sways and end links. HVAC display is looking pretty rough (manual, not dual zone), the faceplate is severely worn all over. I think I have a fix for that in the works, if it goes well I'll post up soon.
I decided to do the muffler mod and ordered two pieces of pipe connectors to use... arriving in two days.
This morning I jacked the car up to what I thought would be enough to remove the mufflers but found that wasn't high enough. I wound up adding (3) more 2x6s (4 total) to the jack until I finally got the left side off - after two hours.
Having it set up to do the right side I thought it'd be easier and less time-consuming - NO WAY, of course. The tunnel over the right side axle is a lot narrower and no matter how high, the inner end flange will not clear the tunnel and the whole assembly can't be twisted to the sides like the left side. The right side upper bends over the axle look to be tighter than the left also. So, I'm stuck with it hanging loosely at both ends. More to look forward to tomorrow.
Photos so far...
Last edited by WetMountainMan; 08-13-2018 at 08:14 PM.
Installed anodized aluminum gauge rings. It's not back in the car yet, but so far I am very pleased! I have no experience with gel super glue, so used Lexel caulk. It's a really gooy clear caulk/adhesive the sticks to just about anything. Hope it lasts!
Gauges look great. The idea of Me/Superglue/excitement about the result scares me into inaction. That stuff attacks at just the wrong time or location!
Installed anodized aluminum gauge rings. It's not back in the car yet, but so far I am very pleased! I have no experience with gel super glue, so used Lexel caulk. It's a really gooy clear caulk/adhesive the sticks to just about anything. Hope it lasts!
Today I Plastidipped the lower rear fascia of my car, something I've been thinking about for a while. I posted this in the "Rejex is Great" thread too, but it was funny so I'm posting it here too. When I went to mask off the car I used thin-line green Painter's tape at first, and that tape wouldn't even stick to the Rejex, it just slid right off. Vinyl black electrical tape worked much better and it followed the curves well, stretching around them without any problem, and adhered well enough to get the job done. It only took about 15 min of spraying to get that done, I wanted to do it quickly before the electrical tape peeled off too, and when I did the last coat (5 total), it came off smoothly and I had a great sharp line. I like how it looks.
When I went to mask off the car I used thin-line green Painter's tape at first, and that tape wouldn't even stick to the Rejex, it just slid right off.
Yeah, my car is always wearing a coat of glaze, a sealant, and a top layer of wax. When I replaced my front DRL housings, I went from the top and removed both headlight assemblies. I tried putting some wide blue painter's tape around the hood to protect the edges during the process, but it wasn't even close to sticking. LOL
Nothing elaborate today. The PO installed a hurst shifter in this car which is Ok but not fantastic. It had retained the stock ****. It was like shifting the car with a swim noodle. I like the stock appearance but hated the way it felt. Limited seat time but was still hunting for getting the shifter in the right gear. There is a dude on fleabay that sells USA made custom shift *****. I went with a black aluminum 2" **** 9/16s-18. Drove it 30 miles and never a single hickup with finding any of the gears even aggressively driving.
Hardwired my Beltronics radar detector to the rear view mirror. I have a 4 wire harness to the mirror on my 2000 A4 and despite all the advice on here, I could not find a key-switched-on power combination to that plug. It doesn't matter though if the power is always on, I can fairly easily reach the power button on the radar detector to turn it on or off, which is what I prefer anyway because sometimes you don't need it and it can be really annoying to you or your passenger. So it's always powered, but on or off as I want, and you can't really forget to turn it off when you leave the car, it's right in your face.
Muffler mod finally finished!
I had my welder friend come out today with his welding truck to do the cutting and welding for my muffler mod. Having a plasma torch and mig welder made quick work out of the job. I had bought two exhaust pipe connectors 1.375" ID x 1.5" OD and made a pattern for them. He zipped thru them and cut four holes in the muffler pipes with the plasma torch and then mig welded everything. He did a great job. I put new pipe gaskets on and got everything bolted back in place. I still need to readjust the level of the left muffler a bit, possibly using some washer spacers on the far left hanger bolt, under the bracket... but in no hurry.
I like the sound so far but I haven't had it on the road yet.
Last edited by WetMountainMan; 08-16-2018 at 06:35 PM.
Here’s pics of the finished product. Forgestar’s F14’s fitment were as advertised. Hardly any tire poke. I think it looks great and makes it a little more gritty and aggressive looking, I think. The Toyo Proxes T1 Sports handle very well. I’m glad I went with the lambo orange calipers, (thought they were the C7 caliper but they are indeed OEM C5) they pop really nice on the F14’s with the silver gloss finish.
Drove it to town to check out my muffler bypass mod. I like it, not too loud but a little beefier sound and rumble. Just what I was wanting.
Before leaving home, I noticed the LOW FUEL notice on the DIC and the fuel gauge needle was bottomed out. Six miles from town I saw that the needle had raised to almost 1/4 tank on the low end. The mile range to empty was 56 miles, I put gas in it after 5 more miles and it held 16.6 gallons, so I guess the readings were about right. Before this, I'd never had the gas that low and wondered how accurate the DIC and gauge is.
I later straightened the muffler exhaust tips after the bypass welding and reinstall. I then sprayed some HT black paint on the wire brushed and welded areas.
Last edited by WetMountainMan; 08-18-2018 at 06:28 PM.
Went to Pick a part and got a used Air Pump for $30, selling at Autozone or Oreillys for $300 special order and installed today. No more code p0410, or Check Engine Light glaring at me. Went for a decent drive to make sure it didn't come back on. Feeling very satisfied I didn't pay someone $100/hour to do it for me. On to the next project!
It's a 2000 FRC,Blk
I'll be super happy when she arrives 
on the 20th.
08-11-2018, 11:42 PM
