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Drove home from the Bash and killed lots of bugs along the way. Will wash tomorrow before I start prepping the 66 for the 250 mile drive to Birmingham, AL.
might start it up for the 1st time since veteran's day now that i've got a new battery... but the yard's a bit soggy (raining most of the week), so i doubt i'll get it out of the shed yet.
and apparently, not all threaded post batteries are created equal. the optima had two 5/16" posts, but the X2 has a 3/8" positive... meaning i got to drill out my connector's eye. works now, starts much quicker with the higher amperage, and annoyingly reminded me that i still need to replace a headlight motor.
Originally Posted by bradc6
Drove home from the Bash and killed lots of bugs along the way. Will wash tomorrow before I start prepping the 66 for the 250 mile drive to Birmingham, AL.
Brad?!?! what's up, dude - long time, no see.
glad you've still got the 66.
ps - my sister-in-law's grandparents just moved down to DeFuniak Springs. i sure do miss that area.
I've been thinking more and more about turboing the corvette and putting the LSA on the Ranger lol.
You need to stop with the bad influences.
...or you could throw a turbo on the back of the C5 to feed the LSA.
trust me - it'll work; just pulley the blower UP to its peak efficiency pressure ratio (probably 5~6psi), and then get a big snail that'd be happy feeding it at 7~8psi. BOOM: more boost than you could feasibly want and minimal top-end torque loss.
Installed DRM valved Bilstein shocks. I tried the ty-wrap method initially, once on the RF. I then went to man handling them into compression and being quick on the rebound got them out, challenging. If I ever help a friend or replace these it will go much quicker. About three hours total on the quick-jack for the job. Again, It'll be much quicker the next time.
Put a drop of oil on the threads of the shock (all of them), without getting oil on the tip of the shock, if using mini vise grips on the fronts specifically. I did not need to remove the coolant tank, washer reservoir, or control arms. Once you figure out the angle of the dangle and some serious muscle, this is really straightforward.
5mm stubby Allen key for install on the new Bilstein's to hold the shaft and 17mm ratcheting box to compress the bushings is ideal.
Initial ride seems great. Ive not had it on the highway yet.
FYI the 26 year old Z51 rubber bushings on the top of the shocks were soft as ****/goo. No wonder why this feels like a new car. makes a great car even better. Great upgrade!!!
I've been thinking more and more about turboing the corvette and putting the LSA on the Ranger lol.
You need to stop with the bad influences.
If it all comes out slick, I still have the LPE kit in boxes itching to get slapped on a stockish C5 and tuned. The Ram is nearly done. One issue being the new rear window I ordered does not fit the truck so I may give in and call a glass shop. Once the truck is sorted it may get the rattle can special mid summer or slightly better. I really want to get the S600 rolling so I can enjoy it a bit but also so I can post it for sale. After that... with the Ram as daily and Z06 as summer daily then the temptation to score a clean C5 and LPE it.... is pretty high.
...or you could throw a turbo on the back of the C5 to feed the LSA.
trust me - it'll work; just pulley the blower UP to its peak efficiency pressure ratio (probably 5~6psi), and then get a big snail that'd be happy feeding it at 7~8psi. BOOM: more boost than you could feasibly want and minimal top-end torque loss.
I think Mr Black is too scared to do that. Chicken!
First event of the year in the books! Car performed flawlessly all day with 2 drivers. I had a friend who is doing One Lap of America in someone else's car next week and Pitt Race was on the schedule. I let him drive my car for some practice for One Lap. This was his 4th or 5th event already this year, so he didnt need any time to knock the winter rust off. He went 2nd overall fastest and 1st in class. I was able to take 3rd in class out of 6, and 6th overall but I was definitely driving more conservative. At least I know the car is fast!
(they scored the best 2 out of 3 sessions, so the 3 min ones dont count)
I put in a new trackspec radiator today. I got the coolant back in, but I had to cry uncle on the oil cooler. The oil block they give you really needs to have the lines threaded on first as they are too stiff to start. When you thread them first the bolts for the oil block doesn't want to go on. If they would all play nice there is plenty of room do it. I tried taking off the mid pipe to get myself a little more room and sheared off 4/6 of the manifold to exhaust studs. Grrr. For extra fun something greasy looks like it exploded inside my passenger rear wheel. The CV boot looks fine. I'm mystified. However the PO appeared to over grease everything on this car so far.
Those oil cooler lines are tricky for sure. I found if I take the tension off the hose away from the fitting end with one hand its a little easier to work the fitting onto the adapter block when youre not also trying to bend it into submission.
Hopefully you have some of that stud sticking out of the manifold still? I had this happen back when I ran stock manifolds. I was able to get the broken ones out with a map gas touch and vise grips. Its a standard thread pitch (dont remember off hand) so what I did was use thread a bolt from the top and put a nut on the back side of the manifold. Then put the mid pipe on and another nut. Or I may still have some manifolds laying around I can salvage some studs out of and send your way.
Those oil cooler lines are tricky for sure. I found if I take the tension off the hose away from the fitting end with one hand its a little easier to work the fitting onto the adapter block when youre not also trying to bend it into submission.
Hopefully you have some of that stud sticking out of the manifold still? I had this happen back when I ran stock manifolds. I was able to get the broken ones out with a map gas touch and vise grips. Its a standard thread pitch (dont remember off hand) so what I did was use thread a bolt from the top and put a nut on the back side of the manifold. Then put the mid pipe on and another nut. Or I may still have some manifolds laying around I can salvage some studs out of and send your way.
next plan is to get the block started, but loose. Then start the an fittings. That way it can still move a bit. Hopefully that will be enough. I already ordered a new set of bolts from rockauto. It wasnt super expensive, just getting the ends out will be annoying. Got new donuts too since everything was pretty crusty. The grease explosion i just ordered new axles as they are dirt cheap. Changing boots and repacking grease isn’t worth the savings. Plus i can do the diff seals while im in there. Thanks for the offer though. If I can’t get them out it just means it is time for some headers….
I'm finally getting around to installing all the cool stuff I bought over the winter.
K&N intake went on a few days ago, last night I started installing radio flyer headlights then I will get to the B&B exhaust.
I have B&B bullets on my car. Love 'em.......they are nasty.
I posted a while back about getting a Borla S Type II system installed and a fellow member pointed out that pictures are mandatory. So here it is. Sounds good and no drone.
Knocked the cover off, took the wheels off and now I can clean. Also finishing up a mod I've been working on too. First time I've messed with it since last October I believe. Hope it runs when I'm ready to start it up later this week.
I got my two tone leather seats and foam delivered last week. Sent some parts to classic Trims customs for some hydrocarbon action, destroyed one knee bolster in the process and learned that taking out the instrument cluster bezel is a semi pain in the rear.
Now that the center console and radio bezel are out, I can see that my shifter and brake boots are ready for replacement so those are getting ordered.
Do your future self a favor. Grab some Tesa tape off Amazon or some cheap loom and ditch the brown glue stick mess that factory used to keep wiring from being noisy. You will thank yourself later.
Cluster comes out easily with the knee bolster down and the bolts to the column brace removed.
While you're in here, unless you plan to go with a shifter which offers its own tub, look up TMODcustoms and consider his upgraded shift tub. If the bushings on yours look worn out, have separated end caps, or are really grody you will be very happy with the upgrade for under about $180 I think. Something to ponder anyway.
Do your future self a favor. Grab some Tesa tape off Amazon or some cheap loom and ditch the brown glue stick mess that factory used to keep wiring from being noisy. You will thank yourself later.
Cluster comes out easily with the knee bolster down and the bolts to the column brace removed.
While you're in here, unless you plan to go with a shifter which offers its own tub, look up TMODcustoms and consider his upgraded shift tub. If the bushings on yours look worn out, have separated end caps, or are really grody you will be very happy with the upgrade for under about $180 I think. Something to ponder anyway.
04-28-2024, 07:12 PM
