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New tires installed last week and I thought I'd try lowering the car a little so it didn't look so 4X4ish.......Turned the stock bolts on the back down to 3 threads exposed and fronts to 10 threads exposed (just as a starting point)
Drove the car a whole day before pulling it back in the shop and putting everything right back where it used to be. Luckily I took note of the factory settings. Car rode rough, front end was dodgy and felt unstable at anything above 90.
I love the look of them lowered but can't stand how it drove.
you have to do all 4 corners and you have to do it right. 1/2" down from stock is still very good for compliance and it looks a bit nicer. measure from multiple points before and after. the drivers side ideally will be 1/8Th of an inch higher than the passenger
it is slightly stiffer than stock but you still maintain good compliance which keeps the car fast. these guys slamming on stock bolts just wind up with a slower car that rides rough
you have to do all 4 corners and you have to do it right. 1/2" down from stock is still very good for compliance and it looks a bit nicer. measure from multiple points before and after. the drivers side ideally will be 1/8Th of an inch higher than the passenger
it is slightly stiffer than stock but you still maintain good compliance which keeps the car fast. these guys slamming on stock bolts just wind up with a slower car that rides rough
1/2" was all I could get out of the back measured 28 1/4" to fender lip, front measured 27 1/4ish. Looked nice but just did not feel right. At the lift points measured just under 5" on the front and 5.50" rear.
Did you get an alignment after lowering to correct the added negative camber and toe changes?
No didn't get that far....It honestly was a rough enough ride that I didn't bother with alignment. It will get one now at any rate but I couldn't get past the ride quality.
Thanks will definitely check it out. At one point when I was adjusting everything I was taking it for test drives after making small changes, and it did feel pretty good but once the front got a little lower and sat for awhile, it seemed to hammer on even small bumps.
Originally Posted by Drewstein
Doubt it. Sounds like he didn't do it right and is wondering why it's "dodgy".
Next he'll complain his tires suck when he installs them without balancing...
I've had several slammed C5s and one slammed C6 without any issues when done right.
Actually yes it was done right....Measured at several points on the frame to make sure each side was close in measurements. It's more along the lines of the shocks were not happy with end result. Did the car need aligned-yes but no reason to run that out if it's going to ride harsh. Which is not what I'm wanting.
1/2" was all I could get out of the back measured 28 1/4" to fender lip, front measured 27 1/4ish. Looked nice but just did not feel right. At the lift points measured just under 5" on the front and 5.50" rear.
it's possible your car may have been lowered before? there is usually more to be had than 1/2"
you also have to do an alignment as the tires toe out when you go down
if you live somewhere rural where the roads are bumpy the car is likely fastest at the stock ride height. you need all the compliance you can get
My experience is definitely opposite of yours. I noticed a negligible decrease in ride quality through about 80 miles of driving. I'll drive it another day or two to let it settle, check the rake, and then align it.
My experience is definitely opposite of yours. I noticed a negligible decrease in ride quality through about 80 miles of driving. I'll drive it another day or two to let it settle, check the rake, and then align it.
If you don't mind, what measurements are you at on the frame, at the jacking points?
I probably should tweak the driver's side slightly. At 180lbs, I doubt I smash the car 1/4inch.
I'll try to align in it in the next week or so and update you with where its at.
180lbs should come down around 1/8th of an inch. maybe 1/4? it was really hard to tell that exact. i'm the same weight as you and went for the same thing. for alignment specs factory isn't bad but you may modify the toe a bit. slightly less toe in up front helps steering response. i think i used .04 in each side and out back the factory spec can be improved quite a lot going from the stock toe out which is imo an autocross alignment to .05 to .08 in each side. factory camber and caster are fine for more 200+utqg street tires
it looks like you spent some time on the lowering. took me around 3 hours to dial in. it doesn't go quick if you're particular and trying for a really even job
IMO I think that maybe you overlooked the fact that your original shocks are worn and need to be replaced. On lowered cars some shocks work better than others. I have Bilstein Sports which are a popular choice on lowered cars and seem to work well. You might want to consider changing them soon, especially if you are going to try lowering again.
IMO I think that maybe you overlooked the fact that your original shocks are worn and need to be replaced. On lowered cars some shocks work better than others. I have Bilstein Sports which are a popular choice on lowered cars and seem to work well. You might want to consider changing them soon, especially if you are going to try lowering again.
Lowered suspension sucks....
