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Doing harmonic balancer replacement. My tool list?
So prepping
I have the new balancer bought from summit
New timing cover gasket and seal
Bought the Jeggs flywheel holding tool
Bought new GM bolt as everywhere I checked had the ARP BOLT on back order.
My question,
Will any harmonic balancer installer like the AutoZone loaner tool work?
Do I need any specialty tools that I have not considered? Any further heads up that you all can give me?
You'll need a balancer puller, if you the stock balancer, get a 3 jaw puller.
You'll need a balancer install tool and locktite.
You dont need the timing cover gasket but you do need a new crank seal.
You need a torque wrench and an angle guage for the stock bolt, I'd wait and find an ARP bolt
You'll need a balancer puller, if you the stock balancer, get a 3 jaw puller.
You'll need a balancer install tool and locktite.
You dont need the timing cover gasket but you do need a new crank seal.
You need a torque wrench and an angle guage for the stock bolt, I'd wait and find an ARP bolt
This is the install tool you need
That looks like the one AutoZone loans.
I'd much prefer the ARP but I need the car driveable by the 13th as I'm relocating to another state and I don't want to leave it behind. If I can find one to buy I certainly will.
The OEM bolt is fine. The bolts don't fail - the balancers fail. You won't need Loctite, the OEM bolt is already coated. Follow directions in the field manual for tightening the bolt. After the new balancer has been pressed onto the crank, use the old bolt and torque to 240 lb ft. Then remove the old bolt and discard it. Install the new bolt and tighten to 37 lb ft. Remove the torque wrench and use a long break-over wrench and tighten the bolt another 140 degrees. To do that, mark a vertical line on the bolt as a visual check on where the bolt is, a black felt tip pen works fine. Then turn the bolt and watch the line. 140° is just before you reach the 5 O'clock position on a clock face. You'll probably need a short piece of iron pipe as a cheater bar on the wrench because it takes a lot to get to 140°. It's not rocket science and you can be off a few degrees - it won't make any difference in the end. You are stretching the bolt as you turn it and that pretty much guarantees it won't come loose. This torque to yield method of tightening the bolt is considered to be a better method of tightening bolts that using a torque wrench. Don't use a cheap break-over bar that might break and cause personal injury or damage to the car. Have a cheater pipe on hand because you'll need it and if possible have a friend help put leverage on the bar. It takes a lot of force to reach 140°.
The OEM bolt is fine. The bolts don't fail - the balancers fail. You won't need Loctite, the OEM bolt is already coated. Follow directions in the field manual for tightening the bolt. After the new balancer has been pressed onto the crank, use the old bolt and torque to 240 lb ft. Then remove the old bolt and discard it. Install the new bolt and tighten to 37 lb ft. Remove the torque wrench and use a long break-over wrench and tighten the bolt another 140 degrees. To do that, mark a vertical line on the bolt as a visual check on where the bolt is, a black felt tip pen works fine. Then turn the bolt and watch the line. 140° is just before you reach the 5 O'clock position on a clock face. You'll probably need a short piece of iron pipe as a cheater bar on the wrench because it takes a lot to get to 140°. It's not rocket science and you can be off a few degrees - it won't make any difference in the end. You are stretching the bolt as you turn it and that pretty much guarantees it won't come loose. This torque to yield method of tightening the bolt is considered to be a better method of tightening bolts that using a torque wrench. Don't use a cheap break-over bar that might break and cause personal injury or damage to the car. Have a cheater pipe on hand because you'll need it and if possible have a friend help put leverage on the bar. It takes a lot of force to reach 140°.
Good luck with it.
Thank you. Looks like this will be some work. I am hoping to wrap this in a day or two.
All I ever use is a 133mm long bolt and a nut to install a new dampener. Go to Fastenal, or whatever. Easy and cheap. It wouldn't be a bad idea to pin it while you're there.
This is not the easiest repair. However the right tools does make it easier.
I'd consider:
Flare nut wrenches, steering rack fittings
Crow's feet wrenches
Hi-temp RTV, lower timing cover
Timing cover centering tool
Good hose clamp pliers
flywheel lockout
Know your torque values when you put it back together
This is not the easiest repair. However the right tools does make it easier.
I'd consider:
Flare nut wrenches, steering rack fittings
Crow's feet wrenches
Hi-temp RTV, lower timing cover
Timing cover centering tool
Good hose clamp pliers
flywheel lockout
Know your torque values when you put it back together
As long as the OP isn't removing the timing cover, and there's no real reason to do so, the RTV and/or timing cover alignment tool isn't necessary.....
As long as the OP isn't removing the timing cover, and there's no real reason to do so, the RTV and/or timing cover alignment tool isn't necessary.....
I have a gasket if I need to do the timing cover but I'm thinking if it isn't leaking then why bother. I will do the seal no matter what.
The local catch all store had a nice long bolt that was the right thread pitch in the future I would have bought two bolts from gm because they are only $4.50 at my local dealer. I was going to use my original bolt but I cut the flange off of it to pull the pulley off.
The local catch all store had a nice long bolt that was the right thread pitch in the future I would have bought two bolts from gm because they are only $4.50 at my local dealer. I was going to use my original bolt but I cut the flange off of it to pull the pulley off.
I made a command decision today and rather than bother with this I am just having it done along with rear end rebuild and McLeod clutch new hydraulics and remote bleeder on the clutch. They are happy to use the parts I've already purchased. I'm doing 4.10s in the rear.
I have my hands full getting ready to move and this just felt like one thing too many.
On the recommendation of a good friend who has done a lot of business with them I went with Premier Performance in West Jordan. I dropped it off an hour ago.
04-25-2017, 05:24 PM
Doing harmonic balancer replacement. My tool list?
