Clayton59

Who is the go to person in Anniston/Oxford/East Birmingham, Alabama area to get work done at a reasonable price??? Who specializes in Corvettes?


I'm looking for someone to R&R the cooling fans in my C5. I have the fans, just need someone to change them out for me.


Dealership labor cost are outrageous...

KCK8766

Just the fans?? It's a very simple job. IIRC 4 10mm bolts, and two wiring connections. Should be able to do it in your garage with the most minimal tools and have it done in under an hour.

I'd give you a hand if you were in Central Florida....

Rob 02

The fans just slide into clips on the radiator. The electrical connector just plug into the wiring harness. You may have to remove the top shroud/bracket heald on with four 10mm bolts.

Any mechanical friend can help you with it.

Clayton59

Thanks for the info KCK8766... I think I was seeing in other posts on the forum where it was stating it had to come out the bottom on an angle and I don't know how far it should be in the air... I only have a floor jach and stands to get it off the ground...


1) you had to drain the radiator and remove the hoses to get the fans out and back in...
2) then you have to burp the cooling system when you fill it back up with coolant.


Seemed kinda complicated to me. I guess I'm just leery of trying to do it myself.


I'm I reading all this wrong?

001pewter

I've never changed fans so I can't say about that, but draining the radiator isn't hard. Use the petcock or remove a bottom hose. There's threads describing it and how to properly filling the coolant back up. My petcock broke so if you use that and it's your only vehicle might wanna go purchase a new one before hand just incase and save the receipt.

The Rabbi

Any shop should be able to do such a simple job.

Velocity_Vette

?? Are you sure there is actually any issues with the fans? Remember that by design the high operation fan doesn't come on until the car reaches a VERY high operating temperature; wanna say it's something like 238 degrees F.

There's nothing complicated about changing the fans out. Plus you should probably change out the upper and lower radiator hoses and perform a coolant flush regardless if you haven't done it in your ownership.

First time I had to remove the fan shroud - had to remove the radiator - it was around 3 hours total with no experience. That was hose replacement, putting everything back together, and coolant flush & burp. I did all the parts swapping with just the car jacked up on stands

Clayton59

Ok Guys, I just changed my cooling fans. Done everything myself. It was just as easy as you said it would be. I did have to take the top radiator hose loose. I lost just a little bit of coolant. topped it off.


Started the car to burp the system (just because)...


The problem is now I have faults...
1) The check engine is on.
2) Stating Reduced Engine Power.


And also:
3) The traction control light is on.
4) Service traction system
5) Service Active Handling


What did I do??? How do I fix this???

001pewter

Pull the codes. Did you keep a eye on the gauges after starting it?

Clayton59

I will pull the codes... But the faults were immediate... as soon as the engine started. All the gages were normal. When you press the accelerator pedal you can tell immediately the engine has a power deficiency.

Clayton59

P1286 Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor 3 Performance


P1120 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor 1 Circuit


P1221 Throttle Position (TP) Sensor 1- 2 Correlation


C1278 TCS Temporarily Inhibited By PCM

Clayton59

What does all this have to do with changing the fans?

radar502

YouTube the go to for info on the C-5 ..

001pewter

At a quick glance doesn't seem like anything to do with fans. Something could've got bumped or decided to quit working, just so happened while you changed the fans.

bikeriderga

Here's a screenshot of the codes (courtesy computer-logic.us/Obd2Lookup)





Sounds like you must have unplugged a wiring harness or two or grounded a wire running to various sensors on the Can Bus.

The P1120 and potentially the P1221 could account for the loss in power. I feel P1120 is the main culprit.

mstromquist

Did you happen to disturb the throttle position sensor connection when you disconnected the upper radiator hose? First thing I would check as its right there on the throttle body and in close proximity to the area you were working. Maybe take it off and reconnect it and see what happens.

001pewter

I read a few old threads on it, may want to disconnect the tps and check clean connectors.

Clayton59

Yes, I had to unplug it... I went through re-setting procedure I found here on the forum... I still goes right back to limp mode... What happened???


The forum is also stating that it should re-set itself after driving about 30 miles at different RPM and speeds. However I think you have to get the check engine light off first, right?

Clayton59

This is also what I'm using to re-set the TPS. This came from the Forum as well.:
Here's one I have that I have successfully used:
The car will re-learn simply by driving it between 50-100 miles. Or, theactual way to do it more quickly, is the following procedure:

1) Insert key into ignition and turn to the “ON” position, but, DO NOT STARTTHE ENGINE.
2) Open the engine compartment fuse box cover and remove the two 10 amp fusesfrom position numbers 16 & 23.
a) According to the manual there are two fuse boxes. Use the engine compartmentfuse block for this procedure not the instrument panel fuse block.
b) Engine Compartment Fuse Block (correct one): 16 is Powertrain Control ModuleA and 23 is Powertrain Control Module B.
c) Instrument panel fuse block (wrong one): 16 is Air Bag, 22 is Body ControlModule-Ignition and 23 is Body Control Module-Ignition 2.
NOTE: Your DIC will now display “check” messages for ABS, etc… Do not worry asthis is normal.
3) Turn the ignition key to the “OFF” position.
4) Return to the engine compartment fuse box and re-insert both 10 amp fusesfor positions 16 & 23.

5a) Idle relearn for an M6:
1) Start the engine and allow the coolant temp to reach a minimum of 176degrees F. Allow the engine to run at this minimum temperature for at least 5minutes.
2) After the 176 degree, 5 minute minimum run, shut down the engine for aminimum of 30 seconds.
3) Restart the engine and check for DIC error codes (there should be none).
5b) Idle relearn for an A4: (different)
1) Start the engine and allow the coolant temp to reach a minimum of 176degrees F. Allow the engine to run at this minimum temperature for at least 5minutes.
2) Allow the car to idle in DRIVE, with air ON and then OFF, for 5 minuteseach, and then in NEUTRAL, with air ON and then OFF, for 5 minutes each.
3) Turn the car off for at least 30 seconds.
4) Restart the engine and check for DIC error codes (there should be none).
6) Drive car for a minimum of 30 miles at varying rpm settings and speeds. PCMwill now re-learn and adjust for the new air flow and temperature at theintake.
a) If error codes persist, repeat steps 1-7. Make sure fuses are properlyinserted before repeating steps.
b) Do not deviate from the sequence outlined above. If you do, restart thesequence from scratch.
c) Steps 1-4 are also necessary if you ever disconnect your battery or losepower for any reason.

This just doesn't seem to be working...


Any other help will be greatly Appreciated...

001pewter

Did you get it figured out? What other than relearning have you tried?